Weight Distribution Hitch Settings
#1
Weight Distribution Hitch Settings
So after pulling the trailer a few times, I started playing with the hitch a little to see what's what?? I ended up raising the ball on the mount by one hole (1 1/2") and expirimented with different chains on the WDH.
Do you guys use different links based on your load and things like that? With the bikes in the trailer, that's 800 lbs behind the axles of the traler, so I discovered the trailer/truck sits good in one less link than without the bikes.
My question is, is there a limit or some things you don't want to do with this hitch?? like getting the chain/bars up to far and things like that? Thanks for any tips, cause everything I've tried so far seems to work good.
I didn't even notice a difference in the trailer (towing/driving wise, not weight wise) with the bikes in there. Even though I'm sure there was some reduced tounge weight from the bikes being so far aft, the trailer still pulled awesome. There must be a lot of tongue weight without the bikes then??
Do you guys use different links based on your load and things like that? With the bikes in the trailer, that's 800 lbs behind the axles of the traler, so I discovered the trailer/truck sits good in one less link than without the bikes.
My question is, is there a limit or some things you don't want to do with this hitch?? like getting the chain/bars up to far and things like that? Thanks for any tips, cause everything I've tried so far seems to work good.
I didn't even notice a difference in the trailer (towing/driving wise, not weight wise) with the bikes in there. Even though I'm sure there was some reduced tounge weight from the bikes being so far aft, the trailer still pulled awesome. There must be a lot of tongue weight without the bikes then??
#2
#3
About the only thing you want to watch is getting the ends of the bars too close to the trailer frame. So, you want to keep at least 5 links under tension. This gives enough room for the chains and bars, especially on tight turns.
When the bar ends are close to the frame, they can hit the frame on tight turns.
If you need more tension, you can add more washers to the tilt part of the head to point it 'down' more. Basically, you want the bars to be parallel with the ground when you have the tension you require for your load.
It's fine to adjust your tension based on your load. Since you have a significant difference in what you load in your Toy Hauler, you should adjust accordingly.
In my case, I'm pretty much set on weight, so I always set at the same tension (six links under tension). I've tried one link more and less and I can tell a difference, so that's why I keep it where it is.
Mitch
When the bar ends are close to the frame, they can hit the frame on tight turns.
If you need more tension, you can add more washers to the tilt part of the head to point it 'down' more. Basically, you want the bars to be parallel with the ground when you have the tension you require for your load.
It's fine to adjust your tension based on your load. Since you have a significant difference in what you load in your Toy Hauler, you should adjust accordingly.
In my case, I'm pretty much set on weight, so I always set at the same tension (six links under tension). I've tried one link more and less and I can tell a difference, so that's why I keep it where it is.
Mitch
#4
Not positive its true, but I've heard horror stories of 'over distributing' the weight. Meaning, you take too much weight of the back of the truck and transfer it to the front. If this happens then the back end becomes light and may become susceptible to jackknifing under braking.
I always have the same weight on the trailer so when I set everything up initially I take pretow measurements of the top of the front and back wheel wells. After loading I take post measurements. I try to keep the front and back at the same level of drop but with 1/2-1" further drop in the rear. That way I know there is always a little more weight bias to the back of the truck.
As far as loaded/unloaded trailer, when I don't have anything on the trailer I don't attach the WD stuff.
I always have the same weight on the trailer so when I set everything up initially I take pretow measurements of the top of the front and back wheel wells. After loading I take post measurements. I try to keep the front and back at the same level of drop but with 1/2-1" further drop in the rear. That way I know there is always a little more weight bias to the back of the truck.
As far as loaded/unloaded trailer, when I don't have anything on the trailer I don't attach the WD stuff.
#6
#7
Here's a hypothetical for ya....lets say for the sake of argument, I got a 2008 F-350!! Would I even need to use the weight distribution hitch any longer?? The rear srpings on that sucker are crazy!! Or would you still use it anyways, even if you didn't have to crank up the links, cause I can tell ya she's probably going to sit pretty level on her own. Doubt the tounge weight of the trailer will weigh down this puppy.
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#9
Galaxy,
If your 2008 has a true 'class 5' hitch on it, with a 2.5" square receiver, and the shank and ball were all up to spec for the tongue and trailer weight, then I'd say "sure"......
But, you are still going to take some weight off the front end when you plop that tongue on the rear end.... That will make the steering feel lighter and you will still have the majority of your load right in the middle of the mix....
I'd still use a WD setup, even with your 2008 F350 setup.....
But, that's just me...
Mitch
If your 2008 has a true 'class 5' hitch on it, with a 2.5" square receiver, and the shank and ball were all up to spec for the tongue and trailer weight, then I'd say "sure"......
But, you are still going to take some weight off the front end when you plop that tongue on the rear end.... That will make the steering feel lighter and you will still have the majority of your load right in the middle of the mix....
I'd still use a WD setup, even with your 2008 F350 setup.....
But, that's just me...
Mitch