Can My Truck Pull This ???
#1
#2
We have a chart in a sticky thread which will help you figure out how much that truck can tow.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=78435
Now, if you don't know your axle ratio, get the axle code off the door plate and look it up here:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=276509
Now, add up the empty weight of the trailer and the weight of the car and see what you get.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=78435
Now, if you don't know your axle ratio, get the axle code off the door plate and look it up here:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=276509
Now, add up the empty weight of the trailer and the weight of the car and see what you get.
#3
#5
Same 'tow' specs as mine, but you have an additional #250 of truck GVWR to play with and a little more power in your PI head 5.4...
That's my biggest thing is I hit the trucks GVWR with my #5000 TT... When it's all said and done, I'm probably several hundred pounds over.
But, it tows great, I have all the power I need, I'm not 'killing' it by any stretch and it's still my daily driver!
I tow about once a month and go anywhere from 100 miles to over 500 miles on any single trip.
You'll be a bit heavier then me, so you will be right on the fence IMO.... Consider getting some 4.10 gears for the truck.... That'll really help out with that extra load... It'll lighten up your wallet some, but what the heck.... It's only $$$$!
Mitch
That's my biggest thing is I hit the trucks GVWR with my #5000 TT... When it's all said and done, I'm probably several hundred pounds over.
But, it tows great, I have all the power I need, I'm not 'killing' it by any stretch and it's still my daily driver!
I tow about once a month and go anywhere from 100 miles to over 500 miles on any single trip.
You'll be a bit heavier then me, so you will be right on the fence IMO.... Consider getting some 4.10 gears for the truck.... That'll really help out with that extra load... It'll lighten up your wallet some, but what the heck.... It's only $$$$!
Mitch
#7
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#10
ok i need a little more help. i believe all that i have on the truck now is a class 3 hitch i can't read anything on the sticker as it was painted over and when i try and remove the paint the sticker comes off as well.
now saying that can someone give me part numbers for a reese and hidden hitch class 4 hitch that will work for my truck??
the trailer has brakes on both axles as well.
now saying that can someone give me part numbers for a reese and hidden hitch class 4 hitch that will work for my truck??
the trailer has brakes on both axles as well.
#11
It's probably only a class 3 on there, but from what I see, it MIGHT be a class 4 without weight distribution. If your electrical connector is only a 4 pin, you need to replace it with a 7 pin system, the extra pins are for the electric brakes. You will also need a controller.
I don't want to mislead you in any way, but it appears to me there are several different components that make up a class 4 weight distribution system. I'd prefer to let someone who knows this stuff help you on parts selection.
Can you tow it without weight distribution? Probably, but it's going to be rough on the rear axle and it's going to ride with the headlights pointing up in the air. It will also limit any load you can put in the bed and inside the truck. Here is where GVWR and GAWR comes into play.
I don't want to mislead you in any way, but it appears to me there are several different components that make up a class 4 weight distribution system. I'd prefer to let someone who knows this stuff help you on parts selection.
Can you tow it without weight distribution? Probably, but it's going to be rough on the rear axle and it's going to ride with the headlights pointing up in the air. It will also limit any load you can put in the bed and inside the truck. Here is where GVWR and GAWR comes into play.
Last edited by glc; 06-29-2007 at 12:26 PM.
#12
Steady,
If the truck has the 'factory' hitch, then it's rated for both class 3 and class 4. The only real difference between the two is using one of these
Now, you have to make sure your frame mounted hitch is rated for the use of a WD setup (and like I said, if it's factory, then it is!)
This is similar to the setup I use for my rig and it works great. (this is a DUAL CAM setup w/ built in sway control and is supposed to be very good!. I just have the WD setup with the bars alone...)
If it's all setup right, it should level your rig out and dist some weight to your front axle and some back on the trailers axles.
mitch
If the truck has the 'factory' hitch, then it's rated for both class 3 and class 4. The only real difference between the two is using one of these
Now, you have to make sure your frame mounted hitch is rated for the use of a WD setup (and like I said, if it's factory, then it is!)
This is similar to the setup I use for my rig and it works great. (this is a DUAL CAM setup w/ built in sway control and is supposed to be very good!. I just have the WD setup with the bars alone...)
If it's all setup right, it should level your rig out and dist some weight to your front axle and some back on the trailers axles.
mitch
#13
#15
This is what I found on Reese's web site for that model hitch.
So, it's WD rated. (it's got the same ratings as my hitch does BTW).
Mitch
Part Number: 44007 (Now Available)
Description: Professional Receiver
Finish: Black Powder Coat
Warranty: Limited Lifetime
Weight Carrying: 500/5000 lbs.(TW/GTW)
Weight Distributing: 1000/10,000 lbs.(TW/GTW)
Weight: 49.4 lbs.
Size: 35.5" L x 29" W x 7.75" H
Package Type: Bulk
Description: Professional Receiver
Finish: Black Powder Coat
Warranty: Limited Lifetime
Weight Carrying: 500/5000 lbs.(TW/GTW)
Weight Distributing: 1000/10,000 lbs.(TW/GTW)
Weight: 49.4 lbs.
Size: 35.5" L x 29" W x 7.75" H
Package Type: Bulk
Mitch