Some people have added leveling kits to their trucks to get that level look, maybe this truck has.

Mine has the factory rake and leveled out with 300-350 on the tongue.

 

Let me answer all the questions I found.

Yes, I am using a Class III factory installed hitch.

The hitch ballmount has a 2" drop. Should I change this?

I am not the original owner, but when I purchase the truck it only had 30000 miles on it. I bought it in January 07 and its a 2001. I didn't think it was bad mileage for a 6 year truck.

The camper shell was added a few months after I bought the truck.

I do carry some weight in the bed of the truck at all times. Some medical, photography, and other supplies. Probably a few hundred pounds.

Is there an acceptable amount of sag or at what point should I start to be concerned? I have already decided to completely change the load around to move more weight closer to the axles (back of the trailer). Most of the weight is in the front of the trailer right now. So I'm just going to try and change it around.

At this point, I don't think I'll be making my move with this trailer. I am suppose to leave Friday, April 11th and I am running into more and more concerns and less and less time. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Secure you load and take it for a spin around the block. If it tows nicely, take it out on the highway.

No sense in changing things if they aren't wrong.

 

Well, I am going to change some of the weight around in the trailer. It just looks wrong and I don't want to damage my transmission. We towed it for about 2 miles on city streets, stop and go and did get up to 40 and the truck seemed fine. But I'm looking at 1000 miles one way with the mountains. So I don't mind missing some work to change the weight around. What about installing the ballmount upside down and instead of having a 2" drop, I have a rise? Will that help? My main concern is the transmission on the truck. I need my truck for normal everyday driving. Although, I do have a warranty on the transmission. I don't want to be stuck in Utah with no transmission and 1500 lbs of my belongings.

 

Nothing to panic about.
You can tow just fine as long as it's not sitting on the bump stops.
The trailer looks pretty level in the pic, just don't overload the front.
Measure where your at now when empty and keep it that way or not much more whan you load.

You don't want to have more weight behind the trailer axle than in front, that condition is worse than overloading the tongue side.
Going to a 4" drop at this point would make matters worse.

By the time you get to Colorado, you'll be an expert and will be firing off advice from the hip like us guys.

 

Your truck looks fine. The sag on your truck looks minimal. I wouldn't worry about it. Every truck is going to sit a little with an extra 300-500 lbs. on the back end. Just take it easy and you will be ok.

 

With less than 500# on the tongue, you do not need a WD hitch. Load the sucker up and GO - and stop at one of those truck stops I mentioned on your way out of town and weigh it. Do the math and if the trailer weighs less than 3000# and the tongue weight is between 10 and 15%, hit the road! If the tongue weight is out of spec, redistribute the load and weigh again. I think your trailer is level enough for a comfortable tow, no need to change the drop. I've towed close to 3000# with my V6 with a full bed and it towed fine. To keep this in perspective, the factory tow rating on your truck is probably at least 5000#.

Your tranny will be fine - just try to keep the torque converter locked as much as possible - if it starts hunting and/or you hit upgrades, pop it out of overdrive. With a loaded single axle trailer like that, I'd recommend you keep the speed down to 65 at all times.

Whenever you stop for any reason (gas, food, potty) walk around the rig, feel the trailer wheel hubs and make sure they are not overheating, and double check hitch security. Check the air in the trailer tires before leaving home and eyeball them at every stop.

I totally understand your apprehension if you have never towed before. Don't exceed your comfort level - but once you are up and on the Interstate, before you know it you will almost forget there's something back there, so don't get complacent. Without trailer brakes, don't get yourself into a situation where you might have to stop quickly. There's differing thoughts on this, but I personally tow using cruise control where traffic and terrain permits. If you are doing 1000 miles, break it up into 2 days, and get a decent night's sleep. Most cheap chain motels at Interstate exits are reasonably trailer friendly, I'd stay at ones out on the open road or in small towns rather than in or real close to major metro areas.

 

Here is my loaded trailer.

http://www.geocities.com/basicemt/loaded.jpg

 

yah its a little nose heavy, doesnt look too bad tho. If you feel like you cant steer very well then i would worry about it.

Might try going to a level hitch with 0 drop



6,000 pounds towed 100ish miles no problems


Empty trailer


And remember im droped 3/3 in all those pics

 

i think youll be fine

 

Wow...really? Well, in that case maybe I'll go get it weighed and continue my trip.

 

DAMN! That trailer is nose heavy.. Looks like the chains will drag. Looks like if you hit a bump your front end will come off the ground....

 

Things to do:
Wednesday - go to therapy
Thursday - cancel F150online account
Friday - drive to Colorado

 

Ok, here are my CAT scales weights:

Just the truck:

Steet Axle - 3100 lbs
Drive Axle - 2820 lbs
Total - 5920 lbs

Truck with trailer:

Steer Axle - 2800 lbs
Drive Axle - 3880 lbs
Trailer Axle - 2220 lbs
Total - 8900 lbs

So, that makes my tongue weight 1060 lbs? Time to move some things around. Although, we drove 13 miles to the CAT scale, surface and freeway driving and it did handle well. Good control, 1600 rmps at 60 mphs.

 

That trailer is WAY too nose heavy! You need to get the tongue weight down to somewhere between 300 and 450 pounds, a class 3 hitch is only rated to 500# tongue weight without WD bars and I'd bet your rear axle is over its GAWR, I think anything over 3500# may require a 3/4 ton truck. Note that you are right at the max gross rating of the trailer, my speed caution and keeping tabs on the wheel bearings are even more applicable, make sure the tires are inflated to the max on the sidewall. I hope the wheel bearings have been serviced recently. Check for level when you get redistributed, you may need to go for less drop. Flipping a 2" drop drawbar over should give you a 3/4" rise, I'd jack it up off the ball till it appears level and measure the difference to see where you would stand, you will have to also measure how much the back end of the truck rises when you do this to guesstimate what the end result would be.

EDIT: Someone please confirm - the tongue weight may only be 760#, due to 300# weight transfer from the front to rear axle?