Help: towing with 2001 Supercrew 5.4L 4x2
#1
Help: towing with 2001 Supercrew 5.4L 4x2
Hi, I have a 2001 SuperCrew with 5.4L. I am going to pull a 28' Travel Trailer. The trailer has an unloaded weight of 5800 lbs, and a gross weight of about 8000 lbs.
Right now the truck is a little 'squatty' with this load. I'm assuming about 700lbs tongue weight. I have weight distribution hitch, but it needs to be adjusted for this truck. Currently, it was not angled enough to work; I had to put 5 links of chain in the hook-up bracket to get any lift. I am adding spacers to the hitch to fix this.
Anyone pull with this truck and have you had issues with the rear springs? What I mean is does it squat on you.
Would you add a helper spring or Air spring? What about the Timbren rubber spring? I want to be as safe as possible while pulling (sway and bounce being major concerns).
In the little I pulled it so far, I seem to have enough power. It's just the stiffness of the rear seems to be lacking.
Any help would be appreciated.
Right now the truck is a little 'squatty' with this load. I'm assuming about 700lbs tongue weight. I have weight distribution hitch, but it needs to be adjusted for this truck. Currently, it was not angled enough to work; I had to put 5 links of chain in the hook-up bracket to get any lift. I am adding spacers to the hitch to fix this.
Anyone pull with this truck and have you had issues with the rear springs? What I mean is does it squat on you.
Would you add a helper spring or Air spring? What about the Timbren rubber spring? I want to be as safe as possible while pulling (sway and bounce being major concerns).
In the little I pulled it so far, I seem to have enough power. It's just the stiffness of the rear seems to be lacking.
Any help would be appreciated.
#2
Take the trailer to a scale that weighs each axle, not just combined. Most people underestimate the tounge weight (and trailer weight). Most trailers tow best around 15%, which is probably closer to 1k pounds for you. Adjust the WD bars first, then evaluate spending money for other help.
Last edited by APT; 08-27-2008 at 01:47 PM.
#3
#6
You don't have your hitch set up right. And you don't need a scale to do it. Read this
http://www.ehow.com/how_2094696_setu...paign=yssp_art
http://www.ehow.com/how_2094696_setu...paign=yssp_art
#7
My guess is with an #8000 GVWR travel trailer, you are probably in the #7000-#7500 GVW range as it rolls down the road.. Even if you don't fill the water tanks and the holding tanks are empty, it's still going to be a lot heavier then that 'unloaded' figure of #5800... "Stuff" adds up pretty fast, and even if you don't think it's 'that heavy', it probably is!! I know my wife has our little #5000 GVWR TT loaded to the gills and I'll bet it weighs every bit of that GVWR!
Like APT said, I would say you are probably closer to the #1000 tongue weight figure. My little trailer comes in around #650!
What size WD bars do you have? If they are #800, then that's not helping at all! If they are #1000, then it's better, but not going to give you a whole lot more of WD to the front. You really should have the #1200 bars.
I have some 'progressive' overload springs on my rig and I love them! My truck drops about 2" when I put the tongue on the hitch. After I put the bars on, I'm back to the unloaded ride height. Granted, I don't have as much trailer as you do, but I know how much my truck used to sag before I got the overloads! #1000 in the bed would put it on the stops!! Air bags would do the same basic thing too. Either have pros and cons to them, so choose accordingly if you go that route..
I have to say that even if you add the springs or bags, it still does not change any of your other weight ratings.. You still have the same GVWR and rear GAWR as before.... I'll bet you exceed one or both of them when you are all hitched up! I know I do!
Mitch
Like APT said, I would say you are probably closer to the #1000 tongue weight figure. My little trailer comes in around #650!
What size WD bars do you have? If they are #800, then that's not helping at all! If they are #1000, then it's better, but not going to give you a whole lot more of WD to the front. You really should have the #1200 bars.
I have some 'progressive' overload springs on my rig and I love them! My truck drops about 2" when I put the tongue on the hitch. After I put the bars on, I'm back to the unloaded ride height. Granted, I don't have as much trailer as you do, but I know how much my truck used to sag before I got the overloads! #1000 in the bed would put it on the stops!! Air bags would do the same basic thing too. Either have pros and cons to them, so choose accordingly if you go that route..
I have to say that even if you add the springs or bags, it still does not change any of your other weight ratings.. You still have the same GVWR and rear GAWR as before.... I'll bet you exceed one or both of them when you are all hitched up! I know I do!
Mitch
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#8
I did all the re-configuration tonight. When trailer loaded on truck, back end sagged about 1 3/4". With weight distribution hooked up to 3rd link, I got to about 3/4" rear end sag from my unloaded measurement. My front and rear measurements from ground to wheel well are alomst identical (withing 1/4"). Does this sound about right?
Now this truck has pretty soft springy ride. I would like to tighten this up for pulling. I think it will be a bit bouncy. Which option would work best? I am leaning toward the hellwig pro helper springs.
Other option would be air springs or the Timbren.
Thanks for all the help.
Now this truck has pretty soft springy ride. I would like to tighten this up for pulling. I think it will be a bit bouncy. Which option would work best? I am leaning toward the hellwig pro helper springs.
Other option would be air springs or the Timbren.
Thanks for all the help.