I recently pick up a 5000lb dry 24.5ft KZ Spree travel trailer, I already have the weight distibution Reese hitch but not the sway bar kit they make for this hitch. The sway bar for this hitch is the single friction type that only attaches to the passenger side with a couple of mini *****.

I am getting mixed reviews from different hitch dealers that say some guys don't like them because it always has to be disconnected to turn, others say they work great and it only gets disconnected to back up in tight turns.

Anyone got any first hand experience on this sway bar? Opinions?

 

I tow a 21' Toy Hauler that weighs 6,500# dry, and I use the Reese dual friction system which I think uses a similar setup (might not be quite as limiting when turning), mine has the wd bars sitting basically on break pads. It's very, very unhappy if you push it too far but the only time I've ever needed to unhook the anti sway was when some a$$hole boxed me in at a gas station to go take a 2 hour dump in the bathroom and forced me to make a U-turn in between the fueling islands. My friend uses the mini-ball anti-sway for his race car trailer and I've never heard of him having issues, and it doesn't take too terribly long to unhook and re-hook even if it's needed.

 

I'd hitch it up, set the bars and see how it handles first.... I don't think those friction sway devices do all that much, but others swear by them...

I think what 408 is referring to is the "Dual Cam" setup and that's an 'integrated' sway control system that attaches to the D bars themselves to help keep things straight.. If I were having 'sway' issues, that's the setup I would go to..

How you load and how your hitch is setup can make a huge difference if there is some 'sway' while towing... You want to load as much heavy stuff up front and you want the nose of the trailer to be level, or at most, just a tad low at the hitch when the bars are all set. You want the bars to have a 'ton' of pressure on them, so when you set them, raise the tongue while it's hitched to the truck so it's an obvious rake. Now, synch up your bars so that you have no less then 5 links under tension and then lower the tongue. This will really help 'distribute' the weight and you should be level when it's all said and done. You can 'fine tune' your tension on the chains to suit your needs as well. I only mention the 5 links, because if you start getting less, the ends of the bars get that much closer the the A frame on the trailer and on tight turns, that's not a good thing...

Mitch

 

Thanks, I have towed with the trailer in some strong cross winds and found it fairly stable at the 5 link mark, weights are distributed pretty good I think, but am hoping the sway bar may help a bit. The wifey may be forced to tow it once in awhile too and with two young kids in the back, it may be a little assurance. I found a guy selling one for $40, so I might just try it out anyways.

 

Well, it won't make up for an inexperienced tower, if that's what you are hoping..

One thing to remember you can do if you find your trailer swaying is hit the manual slid bar on your brake controller so that only the trailer brakes activate. This can help if the sway isn't too far over the edge and you still haven't pooped your pants yet!

For $40 however, sure strap it on and see what happens...

Mitch