Keystone Outback 250RS
#1
Keystone Outback 250RS
Trailer : 2011 Keystone Outback 250RS
Shipping Weight : 5980 lbs
Carrying Capacity : 1570 lbs
Hitch : 640 lbs
Length : 27' 6"
Tow Vehicle : 2006 F150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.73, 5.4 3V, Tow Package 9300lb tow rating.
I'm curious how well this will pull it, as well as handle the length. I'm up here in Alaska so we do get some decent grades along with nice winds. I'm wanting something I can pull comfortably without putting a ton of strain on the truck. I have been debating on going smaller with the 210RS which is about 1200lbs lighter dry, and 23'. I just have this feeling that anything over 25' should be done with a F250 up here.
Changing out my truck isn't an option as I like it too much to swap it, and my wife wants to keep it. So curious how my current setup will do. I do have the dealer including the Equalizer anti-sway weight distribution hitch in the deal as well.
Any of you guys in the mountain states have recommendations? It's only my wife and my dog, and we currently tent camp so either one would be a big upgrade. However I have been told we will out grow the 210RS, which does not have a side slide. We intend on doing Dry camping so all tanks will be loaded, etc to be run off the grid.
Links below to vendor info.
http://http://www.keystone-outback.com/index.php?page=floorplans&coast=&model=250RS - 2011 Outback 250RS
http://www.keystone-outback.com/inde...t=&model=210RS - 2011 Outback 210RS
Shipping Weight : 5980 lbs
Carrying Capacity : 1570 lbs
Hitch : 640 lbs
Length : 27' 6"
Tow Vehicle : 2006 F150 SuperCrew Lariat, 3.73, 5.4 3V, Tow Package 9300lb tow rating.
I'm curious how well this will pull it, as well as handle the length. I'm up here in Alaska so we do get some decent grades along with nice winds. I'm wanting something I can pull comfortably without putting a ton of strain on the truck. I have been debating on going smaller with the 210RS which is about 1200lbs lighter dry, and 23'. I just have this feeling that anything over 25' should be done with a F250 up here.
Changing out my truck isn't an option as I like it too much to swap it, and my wife wants to keep it. So curious how my current setup will do. I do have the dealer including the Equalizer anti-sway weight distribution hitch in the deal as well.
Any of you guys in the mountain states have recommendations? It's only my wife and my dog, and we currently tent camp so either one would be a big upgrade. However I have been told we will out grow the 210RS, which does not have a side slide. We intend on doing Dry camping so all tanks will be loaded, etc to be run off the grid.
Links below to vendor info.
http://http://www.keystone-outback.com/index.php?page=floorplans&coast=&model=250RS - 2011 Outback 250RS
http://www.keystone-outback.com/inde...t=&model=210RS - 2011 Outback 210RS
#2
How much does your truck weigh right now? What's it's GVWR?
Subtract the two and that's how much you have left for the tongue weight and whatever else you are going to put in the truck.
Since you are more then likely going to travel with a loaded trailer, those 'unloaded' weights are essentially useless...
Doing the math on it's shipping weight and it's CC, gives you a GVWR of #7550 for the trailer. At the minimum, you want 10% of the trailers loaded weight as tongue weight.. 12-15% is better for stability reasons...
Let's figure your loaded weight is going to be around #7000. Your tongue weight is then going to be between #700 and #1050.
If you have enough payload left with your wife, and other stuff loaded in the truck when you weigh it, then you should be fine.. Weight wise...
In the mountains, you'll still need to pull some revs, as you'll be in second gear on the grades and probably won't be in OD at all, so figure on being in third gear cruising on the flats..
Is that going to be a bad thing?? Not in my opinion... Any gas engine is going to need to rev to get into it's power band, so that's what it's going to need to do to tow a #7000 brick....
Expect around 8-10 mpg towing and have a good time and don't worry about it!
That's what I get towing a #5000 GVWR TT with a much older truck with over 217,000 miles on it and I'm in second on the grades and tow in third on the flats...
Mitch
Subtract the two and that's how much you have left for the tongue weight and whatever else you are going to put in the truck.
Since you are more then likely going to travel with a loaded trailer, those 'unloaded' weights are essentially useless...
Doing the math on it's shipping weight and it's CC, gives you a GVWR of #7550 for the trailer. At the minimum, you want 10% of the trailers loaded weight as tongue weight.. 12-15% is better for stability reasons...
Let's figure your loaded weight is going to be around #7000. Your tongue weight is then going to be between #700 and #1050.
If you have enough payload left with your wife, and other stuff loaded in the truck when you weigh it, then you should be fine.. Weight wise...
In the mountains, you'll still need to pull some revs, as you'll be in second gear on the grades and probably won't be in OD at all, so figure on being in third gear cruising on the flats..
Is that going to be a bad thing?? Not in my opinion... Any gas engine is going to need to rev to get into it's power band, so that's what it's going to need to do to tow a #7000 brick....
Expect around 8-10 mpg towing and have a good time and don't worry about it!
That's what I get towing a #5000 GVWR TT with a much older truck with over 217,000 miles on it and I'm in second on the grades and tow in third on the flats...
Mitch
#3
Thanks for the reply,
After looking at the "gain" for the larger table area, I am leaning more towards the 210RS. With it's dry weight being almost 1200lbs less, and it being a bit shorter I'm thinking in the long term that I would enjoy that combo with my truck a lot more. As for the added weight I would think 1,000-1500lbs would be good for additional weight, putting it closer to the 6,000# - 6,500#.
After looking at the "gain" for the larger table area, I am leaning more towards the 210RS. With it's dry weight being almost 1200lbs less, and it being a bit shorter I'm thinking in the long term that I would enjoy that combo with my truck a lot more. As for the added weight I would think 1,000-1500lbs would be good for additional weight, putting it closer to the 6,000# - 6,500#.
#4
I considered the 250RS and some of the lighter competitors (KZ Spree 265KS and 289KS mainly). One thing I did not like about that RS floorplan is access to the kitchen with the dinette slide in was very limited. I ended up with a Heartland North Trail 28BRS and love it. It's longer, but lighter and pulls well with my F-150.
For Alaska I would strongly consider and Artic Fox with better insulation.
For Alaska I would strongly consider and Artic Fox with better insulation.
#5
Part of the reason we really like the Outback is the King Bed, since I am 6'3. As for insulation I know the 2011 models come with R14 Floor and Roof, and R7 for the walls with heated, insulated under bellies.
The Arctic fox is R18 roof, and R7 Floor and walls. They do offer the optional double pane windows, which I admit would be nice. However the features and quality of the outback compared to the base trim Arctic Fox, the Outback wins. Up here the Arctic Fox's I have seen for the high 20's for 2+ year old models. They are good quality, I just don't see that large of a difference.
I am leaning more towards the 250RS after looking on posts on outbackers.com, it appears a lot of Explorers with the 5.4 and lower 3.55 gearing are pulling it fine. And I doubt the added 4' in box length will make that big of a difference. However the added 1200lbs of weight does keep making me take a second look.
For the most part I am going to assume it will be just my wife and our dog. However I do have other siblings that I am sure would want to come out and adventure with us, where the 250RS would be very nice. But then if it's just my wife and I, the 210 is more than plenty for us. The big debate I am having is the 210 will fit in my driveway, where the 250 will have to be parked off-site for roughly 70/month. And I am not so sure the slide out for the added dining space is worth another 70/month.
The Arctic fox is R18 roof, and R7 Floor and walls. They do offer the optional double pane windows, which I admit would be nice. However the features and quality of the outback compared to the base trim Arctic Fox, the Outback wins. Up here the Arctic Fox's I have seen for the high 20's for 2+ year old models. They are good quality, I just don't see that large of a difference.
I am leaning more towards the 250RS after looking on posts on outbackers.com, it appears a lot of Explorers with the 5.4 and lower 3.55 gearing are pulling it fine. And I doubt the added 4' in box length will make that big of a difference. However the added 1200lbs of weight does keep making me take a second look.
For the most part I am going to assume it will be just my wife and our dog. However I do have other siblings that I am sure would want to come out and adventure with us, where the 250RS would be very nice. But then if it's just my wife and I, the 210 is more than plenty for us. The big debate I am having is the 210 will fit in my driveway, where the 250 will have to be parked off-site for roughly 70/month. And I am not so sure the slide out for the added dining space is worth another 70/month.
#7
I'll offer a few points that may influence your choices.
The rear slide of the 210 means limited seating when in. Some people like to eat in their TT while traveling for example. You will have better access to the kitchen for packing in the 210 vs. 250.
A point about the RV queen sized beds. Many are only 74" long. However, many people replace their mattresses with home size 80" long beds. When looking at RVs, just check if you can afford 6 more inches of mattress. Some floorplans allow it, others will not. FWIW, I am 6'4" tall, and an sleeping on the 74" RV queen bed. Some day I plan to replace the mattress with a longer one as there is basically unused space for me to do so.
Why are you considering bunk houses for a couple? If I did not have kids, I want a rear living of some kind. How about the 268RL?
The rear slide of the 210 means limited seating when in. Some people like to eat in their TT while traveling for example. You will have better access to the kitchen for packing in the 210 vs. 250.
A point about the RV queen sized beds. Many are only 74" long. However, many people replace their mattresses with home size 80" long beds. When looking at RVs, just check if you can afford 6 more inches of mattress. Some floorplans allow it, others will not. FWIW, I am 6'4" tall, and an sleeping on the 74" RV queen bed. Some day I plan to replace the mattress with a longer one as there is basically unused space for me to do so.
Why are you considering bunk houses for a couple? If I did not have kids, I want a rear living of some kind. How about the 268RL?
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#8
As for the bunks it's because I anticipate one of my siblings
to tag along, and we are planning on kids here in a few years. I like the bunks for the added privacy, rather than sleeping at the foot of the bed. Wife wants the king because that's what we use at our house. We tried a true queen and fought for space all the time.... Lol.
I do agree the counter space is a bit limited, but I do like the 210rs for the fact that it has almost 27' of room when the king slide is out. We did look at a keystone Springdale 210bh. But it looks to have even less interior space. We understand that it may get crowded which is why we look at the 250, but any trailer over 25' in length I can not park at my house and would have to pay to park off-site. Town home association rules.
to tag along, and we are planning on kids here in a few years. I like the bunks for the added privacy, rather than sleeping at the foot of the bed. Wife wants the king because that's what we use at our house. We tried a true queen and fought for space all the time.... Lol.
I do agree the counter space is a bit limited, but I do like the 210rs for the fact that it has almost 27' of room when the king slide is out. We did look at a keystone Springdale 210bh. But it looks to have even less interior space. We understand that it may get crowded which is why we look at the 250, but any trailer over 25' in length I can not park at my house and would have to pay to park off-site. Town home association rules.
#9
#10
I'm sure I'll get a lot of heat over this but I tow a 34' fifth weighing about 8000#s. Truck is an 05 screw, 5.4, 2 wheel, 3.55. I do fine on the flat and level with no head wind. Most of the time we travel at 60 mph without any struggle & 10-12 mpg. Stopping is not a concern with electric brakes. I would say I am at or slightly above ratings with passengers and stuff.
Research what your truck is rated at using the appropriate year tow guide and do the math. Gross combined weight rating, truck weight & payload, hitch weight, trailer weight with stuff, etc. It's all physics these days so do the math and reduce your towing speeds. Good luck.
Research what your truck is rated at using the appropriate year tow guide and do the math. Gross combined weight rating, truck weight & payload, hitch weight, trailer weight with stuff, etc. It's all physics these days so do the math and reduce your towing speeds. Good luck.
#11
I'm sure I'll get a lot of heat over this but I tow a 34' fifth weighing about 8000#s. Truck is an 05 screw, 5.4, 2 wheel, 3.55. I do fine on the flat and level with no head wind. Most of the time we travel at 60 mph without any struggle & 10-12 mpg. Stopping is not a concern with electric brakes. I would say I am at or slightly above ratings with passengers and stuff.
Research what your truck is rated at using the appropriate year tow guide and do the math. Gross combined weight rating, truck weight & payload, hitch weight, trailer weight with stuff, etc. It's all physics these days so do the math and reduce your towing speeds. Good luck.
Research what your truck is rated at using the appropriate year tow guide and do the math. Gross combined weight rating, truck weight & payload, hitch weight, trailer weight with stuff, etc. It's all physics these days so do the math and reduce your towing speeds. Good luck.
#13
I'd suggest looking at the Bullet trailers made by Keystone. BH models and the weights are a bit lower.
http://www.keystonerv-bullet.com/
http://www.keystonerv-bullet.com/
#14
#15