Time to buy a weight-distributing hitch and sway-control setup for my truck and trailer. Anyone have any comments on the two major brands, Reese and Draw-Tite? They each have various configurations within their own systems and I'd like to know of anyone's experience with one versus the other.

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JK_TN
2001 Ford F150 SuperCrew
Black/Lariat/5.4/4x4/3.55LS/Towing Pkg.

Pendaliner SR; Quantum ATB Tool Box by Better Built

"Often wrong; never in doubt."

 

Thanks, cphillip--

I checked out the equalizer site: they have a nice-looking setup. Price isn't too out of line for the whole system and it appears to be very efficient, i.e., no chains and seperate anti-sway bars. Unfortunately, they don't have a dealer in the Nashville area, but they DO have a 60-day "return for any reason" policy, same-day shipping and 4-5 day delivery time.

Did you find out about this outfit after you'd bought from Reese, or did you choose Reese over them?

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JK_TN
2001 Ford F150 SuperCrew
Black/Lariat/5.4/4x4/3.55LS/Towing Pkg.

Pendaliner SR; Quantum ATB Tool Box by Better Built

"Often wrong; never in doubt."

 

After. I got the Reece in the whole camper package when I bought the Travel Trailer. If you don't mind the hassle of cranking the thing up and down to spring the bars they work very well for the cost. At least on a moderate sized camper, like below 6K or so. These guys with the real monster Campers like 30 footer 10K rigs almost always need something better.

And you can always buy a power jack for up front to help this situation out. Many do that. Might be a cheaper combo.

 

CPhilip: thanks for that address on the equalizer hitch. It really looks like a good one and I'll be showing it to my other half when he comes home. Do you happen to have the address for that Hensley system???

 

I have the Reese. But I think they are about the same. They work well. Both spring bar set ups I think.

But now here is a real Cadillac system but still not as pricey as the Hensley system.
http://www.equalizerhitch.com/home.html

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2000 F-250 Super Duty, SuperCab XLT, Oxford white with medium grey cloth captains chairs, 5.4L Triton V8 (260 HP - 345 FP Torque version!), 4R100 4 Speed Automatic Transmission, 4 wheel ABS, Deluxe Aluminum Wheels, Trailer Towing Package, Class IV Hitch, Reece load distribution system, Escort Sensor II Electronic Brake controller, Sure Stop towing skirt, "Westin" black powder coated step bars, "White-White" head lamps, Herculiner bed liner, ISSPRO Tranny Temp Guage, Excursion center console, Ford moulded mud gaurds, K&N Air and Oil filter, Amsoil XL7500 5W-30,Air filter minder.

 

Sure Tina, here are two more.

Some say the best and the second best systems in that order.
http://www.hensleymfg.com/
http://www.pullrite.com/

 

Cphilip: thanks We need a "shocked" smiley face!!! Because that's what I went into when I saw the price of that Hensley system!!! Are they on drugs or what???? Never found a price on the Pullrite but if they are just as proud of their product as Hensley then I wont be getting it either. I do like the Equalizer hitch but wish there were some way to actually talk w/people that had bought it.

 

Yes... that Hensley is pricey. It has some advantages in that all the gear is affixed to the trailer as oposed to some of the euquipment on the others is affixed to the truck. But is out of my range completely and as I stated before I don't need that level of control. I understand the Pullrite is cheaper. I think there are some Folks on the www.irv2.com site that can give you input on the Equalizer system

 

Back when we couldn't decide on a Trailer or 5th wheel, I checked out the Pullrite. Seemed reasonable priced - and would have been my choice for a trailer. Sorry, I don't remember the details, now. (I guess once you RETIRE, you think of other things ).
I ended up with a 15K Reese 5th Wheel hitch.

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1999 F-250 XLT Super Duty Crew Cab Long Bed
V-10, Automatic 4R100, 4.30 Limited Slip.
GVW = 6700# Towing Capacity = 13,300#
4 Wheel ABS disks + Reese 15K hitch
Dark Hunter Green. Ford Running Boards.
Grey Rhino-Liner. Captain's Chairs. CD+Tape
Polished Stainless Steel Wheel-well Molding http://members.home.net/jchartier/jnctrk.html

 

cphilip,

I was wondering what you ment when you said "cranking the thing up and down to spring the bars" ? I have a Reese hitch and just fold the brackets on the trailer down, attatch the chain on the hook using the link that will get the chain tight and then use a handle to "flip" the bracket over. This adds plenty of tension on the bars. Been doing it this way for years.

 

OK,here is the text book explaination. If you are getting enough lift without it great, but you wouldn't need the spring bars if you were...

1) Measure the bumper height off the ground at some point you can remember on level ground.

2) Hook the camper up, letting the weight onto the hitch and ball. Fasten it up.

3) Crank the jack up past the height you were origianlly ( by a couple of inches or so).

4) Chose a number of chain links to start with (four from the end or so is usually right for a 550# spring bar on a F150 4X4) and place these links onto the bracket. Using the pole(pipe?)fasten them up. If the tension is very strong and difficult to bring up, you need to jack the truck up with the trailer tounge jack a little more till its easy to fasten them into place.

5) Lower the truck down and then re-measure the bumper height. If it is more than 1/2 inch (some say 1/4 inch) below the original, unloaded measurement you took earlier, then you do not have enough tension on them and you start all over trying more (or less)links till you return the truck to its same stance loaded as it was unloaded.

Once you do this the first time you just remember the number of chain links you used that leveled out the truck and you are good to go. You don't need to repeat this unless you do something to the truck or trailer to chage drastically the stance/weight of either.

But that's how these spring bars work. They spring the weight forward to the front wheels leveling out the truck. If you are not "springing" them then I doubt you are receiving the full benefits of the weight distribution system. You might be very suprised how much better a ride you get if you get this done. I can't see how you could end up with the same bumper height as unloaded without doing this unless your tounge weight is insufficent to need them in the first place?

On my F250 SD it takes five links from the end to jack the rear up to original height. They are under a lot of pressure (Spring) and if you do not jack the rear end up to let that pressure off before undoing them from the brackets they will take your leg out with the pole.