Choosing an older truck for towing?
#1
Choosing an older truck for towing?
I'm kicking around the idea of getting a truck to tow a car trailer. I'd guess the car will weigh somewhere around 2500lbs, and I wouldn't really even like to guess what the trailer could weigh. It'll be an open trailer I suspect, maybe 1500-2000 lbs?
I'm new to trucks and to towing, and have spent a couple of weeks trying to read up. The F-150 is top of my list (I was also considering an explorer but it sounds like they have a more complicated rear suspension system).
I've also been told that 2wd is preferable for towing (it won't ever see snow), and that the automatic transmissions in the F150 can tow more weight than the manuals. I don't know if this is accurate though.
I'm on a budget, and what I've seen locally in my price range has included trucks from the mid 90's up to about 2001. Mileage has been anywhere from the 70's to about 170. Is any of that a bad combination for towing?
I looked over the towing chart on this forum and it sounds like these trucks were available with many different rear axle ratios.
Is this as simple as just adding the car weight to the trailer weight, and picking a cab/rear axle/engine/transmission combination that is rated to tow more than that? or is there more to it?
Also, is there an obvious way to find out what rear axle a truck has, if you don't have the owners manual?
If anyone could let me know if I'm on the right track with this I'd really appreciate it.
I'm new to trucks and to towing, and have spent a couple of weeks trying to read up. The F-150 is top of my list (I was also considering an explorer but it sounds like they have a more complicated rear suspension system).
I've also been told that 2wd is preferable for towing (it won't ever see snow), and that the automatic transmissions in the F150 can tow more weight than the manuals. I don't know if this is accurate though.
I'm on a budget, and what I've seen locally in my price range has included trucks from the mid 90's up to about 2001. Mileage has been anywhere from the 70's to about 170. Is any of that a bad combination for towing?
I looked over the towing chart on this forum and it sounds like these trucks were available with many different rear axle ratios.
Is this as simple as just adding the car weight to the trailer weight, and picking a cab/rear axle/engine/transmission combination that is rated to tow more than that? or is there more to it?
Also, is there an obvious way to find out what rear axle a truck has, if you don't have the owners manual?
If anyone could let me know if I'm on the right track with this I'd really appreciate it.
#2
You definitely want to stay with an automatic. Tow rating for them is much higher than the manual. At the least you want a 3.55 gear ratio. 3.73 would be even better.
To find the gear ratio, you can do 2 things. Look at the tag bolted to the rear. That will list the ration. Easier is to look at the door sticker for the axle code. If the 2 character code ends in a 9, it is a 3.55. If it ends in a 6, it is a 3.73. If the first character is a letter, it is a limited slip, or open if it is a number.
If the number ends in 7 or 8, leave that truck, the ratio is too high (3.08, 3.31) for towing.
Edit - I will also add I think you will be happier with a 5.8 (pre 97) or 5.4 (97 up) engine for towing.
To find the gear ratio, you can do 2 things. Look at the tag bolted to the rear. That will list the ration. Easier is to look at the door sticker for the axle code. If the 2 character code ends in a 9, it is a 3.55. If it ends in a 6, it is a 3.73. If the first character is a letter, it is a limited slip, or open if it is a number.
If the number ends in 7 or 8, leave that truck, the ratio is too high (3.08, 3.31) for towing.
Edit - I will also add I think you will be happier with a 5.8 (pre 97) or 5.4 (97 up) engine for towing.
Last edited by kingfish51; 05-25-2013 at 07:21 PM.
#4
I should have mentioned before, you will be better off with something that does not have oversize tires as these will raise the ratio.
One other thing you will need for towing is a brake controller. Most states require trailer brakes for anything above 2-3000lbs. As it doesn't look like you will be over 5000lbs, you should not need a weight distribution hitch.
Last edited by kingfish51; 05-25-2013 at 08:02 PM.
#5
Oh wow, I had no idea it would be revving that low.
So if I've got this right, it sounds like ideally I should be looking for a V8, 2wd automatic, non-supercrew (with stock size tires and I'm assuming not lifted).
Thanks for the tip on the brake controller, I wasn't aware of that.
So if I've got this right, it sounds like ideally I should be looking for a V8, 2wd automatic, non-supercrew (with stock size tires and I'm assuming not lifted).
Thanks for the tip on the brake controller, I wasn't aware of that.
Last edited by Taymar; 05-25-2013 at 08:05 PM.
#6
Oh wow, I had no idea it would be revving that low.
So if I've got this right, it sounds like ideally I should be looking for a V8, 2wd automatic, non-supercrew (with stock size tires and I'm assuming not lifted).
Thanks for the tip on the brake controller, I wasn't aware of that.
So if I've got this right, it sounds like ideally I should be looking for a V8, 2wd automatic, non-supercrew (with stock size tires and I'm assuming not lifted).
Thanks for the tip on the brake controller, I wasn't aware of that.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
#9
All good info above. I second all of it. I wouldn't be stuck on 2 wheel drive. 4 wheel drive does the same thing. One not any better than the other for towing. It will be easier to find a good deal on a 4x4 because there so many of them out there. On the other hand, 2 wheel drive will get slightly better MPG.
Defiantly stick with 5.8 or 5.4 as stated above, and try to get one with 3:73s.
My 1/2 ton was an 06 5.4 with 3:73s and it pulled a car hauler really well.
Defiantly stick with 5.8 or 5.4 as stated above, and try to get one with 3:73s.
My 1/2 ton was an 06 5.4 with 3:73s and it pulled a car hauler really well.
Last edited by avfrog; 05-26-2013 at 10:31 AM.
#11
In general, yes. There are some common problems with the 97-03 on the system that engages the front diff, but they are easily repairable. And for not too much cost.
#12
If you just want a tow vehicle you might look for a Expedition or better yet a Excursion with a diesel. They are heavier so max tow ratings are slightly less than a pickup but get around the same mpg. The diesels run forever and 200k is nicely broken in if it has been maintained. Much better ride comfort if you don't need the truck box. My daughter had a Excursion diesel and it was a tank she avg 19 mpg with it and it was loaded. I am a truck guy but I took a real hard look at a used Excursion diesel last year before I bought this F150 I could of saved 10 grand if I bought the Excursion but I like this F150.
#14
An expedition or excursion might work too, I don't desperately need the bed, just figured that a truck might be less expensive than the SUV variant. MPG isn't the most important piece but it's definitely important.
Am I correct in thinking that the expedition/excursion have a more complicated rear suspension setup involving an air compressor, or am I way off on that?
Am I correct in thinking that the expedition/excursion have a more complicated rear suspension setup involving an air compressor, or am I way off on that?
Last edited by Taymar; 05-30-2013 at 08:21 PM.
#15
An expedition or excursion might work too, I don't desperately need the bed, just figured that a truck might be less expensive than the SUV variant. MPG isn't the most important piece but it's definitely important.
Am I correct in thinking that the expedition/excursion have a more complicated rear suspension setup involving an air compressor, or am I way off on that?
Am I correct in thinking that the expedition/excursion have a more complicated rear suspension setup involving an air compressor, or am I way off on that?