Hi everybody,

I am going to be towing a car on a dolly next week for 600 miles.

4x2 Screw 4.6L with towing package.


What do you guys recommend for Hitch receiver and ball,

Uhaul said I need a 2" ball.

Rolf

 

For a drawbar I have a (2" drop) for my 2wd and it has worked everything I towed. If the tongue is high you can turn the drawbar over and have a (2" rise).

U'Haul says 2 inch ball then there ain't no 'recommendation' to it.

2 inch ball it shall be.
Anything else is unsafe.

 

I agree 100% that 2" is a requirement, but I'd go a little further. There are actually several different 2" ***** - all with different capacity ratings. I've seen as little as 3,500 lb up to as much as 7,500 lb capacity ratings on 2" *****. It all has to do with the design. Pick the ball with an appropriate rating for your load.

I'd also agree with a 2" drop - again with a qualifier. Draw Bars also have Load Ratings just like *****. Pick a Draw Bar with an appropriate rating too. I suppose you also know about not towing over what your vehicle is rated for.

To be safe, I always go with getting something that's stronger than I think I'll ever need. My favorite Draw Bar is a 10,000 lb bar that has all three (1 7/8", 2" & 2 5/16") ***** on it. It works for everything and anything I tow. I picked it up at Boat / US for around a hunderd bucks.

 

Good points 2stroked.
$100 is a lot of scratch but, if you end up with three ***** I guess thats ok.
I just have the one ball.

I guess a 2" ball rated at 3500lbs would be for a Class II hitch.
Wouldn't want to do that.

Pretty sure my ball is rated 7500lbs.

Rolf, I would post some pictures for you but, they would just get removed and I'd probably get banned.

 

Ya know Raoul, that post was looking somewhat normal right up until the last line. When you go back and reread it after that line, it seems all twisted. [Think about the second and third sentences in the context of the last one.]

Anyway - also make sure that you get a matched pair (draw bar and hitch ball). You want to make sure that, in addition to the weight ratings matching up, the shank size of the ball matches the hole in the draw bar.

 

I try to do at least one normal post a week but, its just so hard.

This one might have qualified if you hadn't called me on it.

Thanks alot.

 

Now, when you read that line, all sorts of strange thoughts come to mind........ It's been a long day already, and it's only Noon here on the West Coast!!

Too funny!

 

Also put alittle "teflon grease" on your ball (s)

They'll last longer.

Good luck...OT

 

This is the first time I've had to close the blinds and turn down the lights to read a thread in Towing & Hauling.

 

If you have just placed the ball in the hole, make shure its tight, you wouldn't want to loose your package.

To keep your package safe from any villans out thier, put a lock on the reciever. That way you will be protected.

They also make taller ***** than most. On our boat, when you would turn at a slight angle, the rough edge of the hitch would touch and scrape your bumper, so we got a taller ball and it worked great. But with the addition of the reciever hitch, no worries.

On my truck when I lowered it, I had to take the 2" drop and turn it over for a 2" raise, and it worked great. With the car dolly, thier will be very little downward weight on the truck, so you should have to worry.

 

hey man! you need the size ball that your trailer says it needs...not what any one else thinks. about the hitch itself...the possibilities are endless. I keep about 5 with me at all times. 3 diff. size ***** and a couple diff. length and drop recievers. there are diff drops from 2" to like 10". 10's are for the really jacked up trucks. a 2' drop will be fine...but also look at the extention of it. i do have one that is about 6 inches longer than the rest. just remember...the longer ext. the slide bar, the heavier your trailer will seem...especially pulling a car. it works like a lever arm

 

thanks for all the input..

Rolf