Im about to rollover 90000, time to service tranny

Is the full tranny flush the best way to go?

Seems I remember hearing about the filters getting clogged this way.
Which leads me to dropping the pan...

Talked to a shop today and they said that dropping the pan would actually be cheaper becuase you don't replace as much fluid. They recommended the flush.

Which is better?

If I end up dropping the pan, wouldn't that be a good time to add a shiftkick or new valvebody?

Thanks in advance

 

what year do you have? for 97/98 and some 99's, there is a torque converter drain bolt. So you can drain the torque converter and drop the pan. Fairly easy for a do it your selfer. Transmission including torque converter holds about 13 quarts. Draining just the transmission will only replace about 5 to 6 quarts. So whether you do the work yourself or hire it done, change all 13 quarts. I've never had the "Flush" treatment, just gravity drain treatments of the converter and transmission. 165,000 miles on my 4r70w and it shifts like new. Be sure the correct fluid is used. MErcon V can be used with no problems for transmissions that call for Mercon, but dont put Mercon in a Mercon V tranny. And personnally, i dont like the tranny fluids that claim to fit multiple applications for multiple manufacturers. If your tranny calls for mercon V, i would only use ford branded mercon V although the jiffy lube type shops will push the multiapplication fluid.

 

I agree with 03f150man. It's a fairly simple thing to DIY, actually there are drain plugs on the converter up til 2001. I personally don't like the idea of leaving a dirty filter in the trans. Replace it.

 

I just changed the fluid in my 2000F150 Supercab 4x4. It ahd 80k on it. The torque converter did have a drain plug. I let the transmission drain a good while and it took 12 1/2 qts to refill.
I screwed up my pan by installing a drain plug where the inside nut interfered with the valve body. So, I ordered a new pan from my local dealer for $24 and change.
If you ever use the drain plug available in the help section of Autozone or Advance be aware that the nylon washers in the kit will not keep the plug from leaking. When I installed one on my Mark VIII, I had to drop the pan again and install two metal washers that had a rubber inner ring that are also available from Advance but you have to ask for them. They are behind the counter.

 

Well, if it isn't goign to be too complicated, I don't mind doing the work my self.

My concern is that the mechanic I spoke with said that the flush
(basically pumping in new while pumping out old through some machine) is better because it gets all the fluid and doesn't break the pan seal which is prone to leaking.

Also it looked like I was going to have to remove the crossmember to drop the pan, is this true?

Is there anything else I should look at if I drop the pan?

 

Dropping the pan may be the best way since you can change the filter too. Drain the torque converter. The gasket is a reuseable gasket and the potential leak problem is BS in my opinion.

I don't know exactly how the flush works but if it is pumping fresh fluid in while draining out the old fluid there will be some mixing.

If you drain both the TC and the trans, there will be a half qt. or so left so there is a litte mixing.

There was nothing in the way of removing the trans pan on my 2000 Supercal 4x4. I don't have the off road edition.

 

I have a 4R100, but the process is the same. I drained the torque converter, dropped the pan, and changed the filter. It was easy to do. The gasket is a nice reusable gasket. My transmission took 15 1/2 qts and I put Mobil 1 synthetic (Mercon) back in. I have not had any leaks at the pan and I have a nice new filter. It's certainly not hard. For what I would have paid someone else, I was able to fill it with all syhthetic ATF and filter.

 

The tranny pan gaskets are reusable and dont leak. Just use a torque wrench set at 7-9 Ft-lbs and tighten them up finger tight first. I also had to buy some oil pan washers with rubber inserts, cause the nylon washer provided by B&M squished at their recommended 25 Ft lbs. No biggie, it was still worth it, droping the pan after draining with a plug was a snap. I also put some lock tite on the inner nut in the drain plug just to keep things snug. LOL I plan on changing every 30k miles now.

 

dropping the pan and reinstalling the orignal gasket should not cause it to leak. At least i've never had that problem. but when you refill the tranny, put in about 5 to 6 qtrs, start the engine for 20 to 25 seconds. Turn off and put in another 5 qts or so. If you put 12 qts in all at once, when the engine starts there is a fine chance you will blow a seal. After 12 qts are in, just keep checking and fill to the correct level. And when draining the fluid, i use a wide and low plastic container i got at walmart. It is ordinarily used for storing clothes. Using a containter that is too small to catch the fluid is a major mess in the making. Container i use is about 2 foot by 3 foot by 5 inches. I also use it when draining radiator, rear differential,etc.

 

I am going to add a question to this, since it's common to do all total torque converter/pan ATF change.

I have a 3 gal bucket in my garage full of ATF. Where do you all get rid of 3 gals of ATF. Adance Auto, Autozone, etc, take used oil but not use ATF.

 

Hmm, maybe I need to check again but these folks used to treat ATF fluid just like oil and I would pour it in the same barrel with motor oil...

 

I don't know whether the Checker stores here officially accept ATF or not, there certainly are no signs proclaiming "Crankcase Motor Oil Only", but they always have me walk in back and dump it myself. Since I put it in my standard oil drain container, I put it in with the used oil.

 

98blue4by, Agreed. i do the same

 

I asked one of the guys at autozone about dumping transmission fluid in there and he said go right ahead. Engine oil, transmission fluid, differential oil it did not make a difference.