Did you use new gaskets? If so are you sure you got the correct ones for your year truck.

That was just my first thought when I read your post.

More info on how deep you went into the valve body. Maybe something didn't get put back together properly.

D

 

If you removed the OD servo and replaced it... sounds like the new OD servo pin did not contact the band when you re-installed it .



I use a hack saw blade and insert it in the case and push the band toward the hole where the servo pin inserts.





Regarding the soft shift and/or slipping, I agree with Darin, use new gaskets and make sure you use the correct gasket for the year model. Ford changed the design of the valve body in 2001. 2001 and newer valve bodies require a different separator plate gasket.

 

Took my trans apart last week.
Broken overdrive servo ring clip (big clip)
Bent overdrive servo
Broken overdrive servo stiffener plate
Hole in valve body seperator plate, with ring clip fragment embedded
Broken 2-3 accumulator spring
Bent/damaged 2-3 accumulator piston
Bent 2-3 accumulator retainer plate

I bought the sonnax kit to fix most of these problems, all that's left is the overdrive servo ring clip.

I don't understand - everyone is simply replacing the OE broken clip with the same OE part, what's the proper solution so this ring won't break again?

 

My truck made it to 191,xxx miles, just messed up Friday.. Never been serviced ( had yellow plug still in it)

I broke the C clip and the E clip, I have everything taken apart and will be getting parts tomorrow.. Will be getting a new servo and C clip, do I need new gaskets?

 

I have never had one that I have worked on repeat the failure. I use OE parts.

D

 

I would get a new gasket to replace any gasket that you had to expose to get the job done.

D

 

First of all, a big THANK YOU to all who contributed to this thread - saved me THOUSANDS!

Here is what I found sitting on top of the valve box:





It was tense time working on this job, stakes were kind of high. But with some patience it was not too hard.

The frustrating part was getting the band and servo pin latched in. I found this excellent video that was a big help.


Now I was not about to stick my own detent spring thing into the transmission - seemed it would jam or be broken or something. But I had the idea and took an old hacksaw blade, ground down and smoother the teeth and that left me with a springy piece of metal just the right size. You shove into the hole where you can see the band, and it will push the band up and around and into the right position. A look into the servo chamber will confirm the that band is in position - you can see the shiny spot where the servo point has been making contact. The spring blade will stay put just by itself - then insert the servo piston and springs, compress with the bottle jack. Next the new snap ring and let off the jack. A smooth tug on the spring blade and listen - no movement ! A peak in the square hole to confirm that the band had not returned to the unlatched position ( if you see the round hole - that is NOT GOOD).

Here is the tool in action.




That was that - everything back together, fluid in, and off we drove.

 

I wish I could find a pic of the servo bore with the band pushed all the way over. I'm about to replace my servo.

 

I'm in one of these transmissions this morning. Let me know what pics you need. But, that servo bore pic is tough to get if you are after seeing the band through it, but I'll try. It's hard to get light down in there.

I'll also see if I can figure out a way to take a video of how I make sure everything goes together properly. The transmission I'm working on will be upside down from what most of you guys will be doing though.

D

 

Alsatropine, maybe Darrin will get you a picture - I know I could not get a camera and light source into position. But it is kind of a "you will know it when you see it" thing. Also if you can see the hole in the band through the squarish access hole , it is NOT in position, and unless the band is broken, that is where it will be if NOT latched. It is not going to be somewhere in between - due to the springy nature of the band itself.

 

Thanks! This thread was a huge help. I had my tranny rebuilt at 178000 miles with the exact same symptoms. I now have 296000, and lost OD again. No, that is not a typo on the mileage. My clip was broken into 4 pieces and after 4 hours of my own labor (we took a lot of smoke and beer breaks) I don't have to have my tranny rebuilt. Runs great again!

 

So it appears that my tranny may have just broken the clip today...it drives fine if I turn OD off, but if it is on it goes into neutral after about 35 mph...

I had some problems about 4 years ago that I thought were tranny related, but turned out to be a misfire on #3 cylinder...in the process of my dealer trying to diagnose, they replaced the OD snap ring (which they indicated was in many pieces), screen assy, a check ball...that was about 72k ago (almost to the mile)...

I am not real comfortable digging into my transmission....any advice?

 

That does sound like an OD servo problem. This job isn't that hard, and it's also a great opportunity to do something with the valve body since it has to come out anyway.

Chime back in to let us know what you find.

D

 

I stopped by a local transmission shop yesterday...

They feel it is probably the snap ring also...they are saying about $250 including fluids and filter...seems reasonable to me...they are familiar and have done this repair before...

I just don't have time or the confidence to do it myself...

Ill chime in after I get it in to them...probably next week...

 

I replaced the broken servo clip. Now when in park its in park. When in reverse its neutral. Neutral is reverse. And drive is neutral. Low 2 an 1 are where they are supposed to be. Any suggestions?