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04 F150 Lost overdrive, servo clip broke
http://www.f150online.com/forums/tra...roke-pics.html
ISSUE
2004 Ford F150 lost overdrive, some of the symptoms of this include:
• No overdrive
• Shift right into neutral
• Not able to engine brake into 2nd gear
• If you turn of OverDrive, you can drive normally within the first three gears
This was caused by the overdrive servo retaining clip snap and lodged into the a valve on the valve body
Read below for the full discussion…
http://www.f150online.com/forums/tra...roke-pics.html
ISSUE
2004 Ford F150 lost overdrive, some of the symptoms of this include:
• No overdrive
• Shift right into neutral
• Not able to engine brake into 2nd gear
• If you turn of OverDrive, you can drive normally within the first three gears
This was caused by the overdrive servo retaining clip snap and lodged into the a valve on the valve body
Read below for the full discussion…
04 F150 Lost overdrive, servo clip broke (pics)
#61
Q&a
Thanks for the response KC8FLB.
1) I put in 8 quarts of fluid which was to much, so i extracted fluid and made sure it registered correctly on the stick. I read all thread on this and researched other articles about the problem so I felt 8 was a good number. In my case 6 would of been a better estimate.
2) I did find every last piece of the clip, I made sure of this by reconstruction of the clip on a piece of tape under a magnify glass. I also checked the pistons in the valve body and made sure they were all moving freely. I didn't drop any check ***** (I was very careful). All bolt torque was done to specs.
3) This is where I think I have the problem, I didn't line anything up. I really don't know what to align with what. Ive been getting use to that proverbial sucking feeling for a while now sooo ohh well...
Can you suggest a reference on where I can find the method to line up the shift linkage to the shift valve. Is the shift valve a long sliding bar with a c-clip on it?
Thanks again.
1) I put in 8 quarts of fluid which was to much, so i extracted fluid and made sure it registered correctly on the stick. I read all thread on this and researched other articles about the problem so I felt 8 was a good number. In my case 6 would of been a better estimate.
2) I did find every last piece of the clip, I made sure of this by reconstruction of the clip on a piece of tape under a magnify glass. I also checked the pistons in the valve body and made sure they were all moving freely. I didn't drop any check ***** (I was very careful). All bolt torque was done to specs.
3) This is where I think I have the problem, I didn't line anything up. I really don't know what to align with what. Ive been getting use to that proverbial sucking feeling for a while now sooo ohh well...
Can you suggest a reference on where I can find the method to line up the shift linkage to the shift valve. Is the shift valve a long sliding bar with a c-clip on it?
Thanks again.
#62
Thanks for the response KC8FLB.
1) I put in 8 quarts of fluid which was to much, so i extracted fluid and made sure it registered correctly on the stick. I read all thread on this and researched other articles about the problem so I felt 8 was a good number. In my case 6 would of been a better estimate.
2) I did find every last piece of the clip, I made sure of this by reconstruction of the clip on a piece of tape under a magnify glass. I also checked the pistons in the valve body and made sure they were all moving freely. I didn't drop any check ***** (I was very careful). All bolt torque was done to specs.
3) This is where I think I have the problem, I didn't line anything up. I really don't know what to align with what. Ive been getting use to that proverbial sucking feeling for a while now sooo ohh well...
Can you suggest a reference on where I can find the method to line up the shift linkage to the shift valve. Is the shift valve a long sliding bar with a c-clip on it?
Thanks again.
1) I put in 8 quarts of fluid which was to much, so i extracted fluid and made sure it registered correctly on the stick. I read all thread on this and researched other articles about the problem so I felt 8 was a good number. In my case 6 would of been a better estimate.
2) I did find every last piece of the clip, I made sure of this by reconstruction of the clip on a piece of tape under a magnify glass. I also checked the pistons in the valve body and made sure they were all moving freely. I didn't drop any check ***** (I was very careful). All bolt torque was done to specs.
3) This is where I think I have the problem, I didn't line anything up. I really don't know what to align with what. Ive been getting use to that proverbial sucking feeling for a while now sooo ohh well...
Can you suggest a reference on where I can find the method to line up the shift linkage to the shift valve. Is the shift valve a long sliding bar with a c-clip on it?
Thanks again.
#64
I own a 2004 f150
OK i followed the advice of this blog and when i opened up the trany like instructed tho o/d ring was fine but i replaced it anyways after reassembling it it is still doing the same thing there is no overdrive but as soon as i hit the o/d off it runs normal what else could it be the first person said he went trough the same thing but never re posted what he found out.. Which sucks I promise when i find out i will post if it works i go about 35 miles an hour and it goes like it is in neutral please please help
#65
OK i followed the advice of this blog and when i opened up the trany like instructed tho o/d ring was fine but i replaced it anyways after reassembling it it is still doing the same thing there is no overdrive but as soon as i hit the o/d off it runs normal what else could it be the first person said he went trough the same thing but never re posted what he found out.. Which sucks I promise when i find out i will post if it works i go about 35 miles an hour and it goes like it is in neutral please please help
That od piston job is to move that od band inside the transmission. It must be engaged on the band itself. If you just take it out and put it back in, it won't work. No over drive. Band has to be engaged.
Also did you make sure that all of the cylinder valves in the valve body were able to move freely with a screwdriver? I guess one of those valves is for fourth gear and if it does not move freely, no fourth gear.
#66
#67
Up and running
Mine worked great after I lined up the shift linkage...Here is a great write up with pictures to help better understand whats going on inside the trans. I had never fixed an auto trans before so studying up helps.
http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/u...Number=1460366
"Overdrive Servo/Spring Replacement" type that into crownvic.net if the link isnt working.
http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/u...Number=1460366
"Overdrive Servo/Spring Replacement" type that into crownvic.net if the link isnt working.
#68
Hey guys, quick question. I have a 2004 with close to 125K on it. I'll be doing the cooler line method of fluid exchange, along with dropping the pan for a new filter here in the next 5K or so.
Do you think it would be prudent to go ahead and drop the VB while I have the pan off, and change the big and little circlips out? As a preventative measure?
Do you think it would be prudent to go ahead and drop the VB while I have the pan off, and change the big and little circlips out? As a preventative measure?
#69
Hey guys, quick question. I have a 2004 with close to 125K on it. I'll be doing the cooler line method of fluid exchange, along with dropping the pan for a new filter here in the next 5K or so.
Do you think it would be prudent to go ahead and drop the VB while I have the pan off, and change the big and little circlips out? As a preventative measure?
Do you think it would be prudent to go ahead and drop the VB while I have the pan off, and change the big and little circlips out? As a preventative measure?
#70
I wanted to thank the OP and all contributors for this thread as I have had the same OD issue, and went through the procedure to fix it. On my truck, the retaining ring was broken, but just on the ends where the eyelets are, but it still seemed to be holding the servo in place properly. The problem is that after replacing the retaining ring and reassembling the transmission, I still have no overdrive. I did not push the OD band into place when re-installing it, so I know that is an issue, but here is my question...
If the ends of the servo clip were broken, but still holding the servo in place, is it worth it to open everything back up to put the band in place on the tip of the servo? It seems that if the servo was still in place than the broken retaining clip was not really the problem? What do you think?
If the ends of the servo clip were broken, but still holding the servo in place, is it worth it to open everything back up to put the band in place on the tip of the servo? It seems that if the servo was still in place than the broken retaining clip was not really the problem? What do you think?
#71
I wanted to thank the OP and all contributors for this thread as I have had the same OD issue, and went through the procedure to fix it. On my truck, the retaining ring was broken, but just on the ends where the eyelets are, but it still seemed to be holding the servo in place properly. The problem is that after replacing the retaining ring and reassembling the transmission, I still have no overdrive. I did not push the OD band into place when re-installing it, so I know that is an issue, but here is my question...
If the ends of the servo clip were broken, but still holding the servo in place, is it worth it to open everything back up to put the band in place on the tip of the servo? It seems that if the servo was still in place than the broken retaining clip was not really the problem? What do you think?
If the ends of the servo clip were broken, but still holding the servo in place, is it worth it to open everything back up to put the band in place on the tip of the servo? It seems that if the servo was still in place than the broken retaining clip was not really the problem? What do you think?
Also did you replace the big c clip that had the broken ends? Are you sure that the piston didn't come out a hair and come disengaged from the band?
#72
Are you sure you found all of the broken pieces of the broken clip? Those little ground up pieces make their way into the valve body and stop some of the valves from opening or moving. I really had to spend some time cleaning my valve area and digging out little pieces of metal. My gear shift valve was really sticky. Make sure each and everyone of those valves moves freely with a flat head screwdriver. Make sure you don't scratch anything.
Also did you replace the big c clip that had the broken ends? Are you sure that the piston didn't come out a hair and come disengaged from the band?
Also did you replace the big c clip that had the broken ends? Are you sure that the piston didn't come out a hair and come disengaged from the band?
I am pretty sure I got all of the pieces and yes, it is the big c clip that had broken ends. I actually removed the servo, I assume that is the piston your are talking about.
My question is that if the big c clip just had broken ends, but was otherwise still intact and still holding the servo in place tightly (it was a real bear to get it out with both ends of the c clip broken off) the overdrive should have been working right? So maybe I have something else wrong with the over drive and pulling everything apart again to put the tip of the piston in place on the indentation in the OD band properly won't fix the OD and is just wasting time and fluid.
#73
Thank you for your response.
I am pretty sure I got all of the pieces and yes, it is the big c clip that had broken ends. I actually removed the servo, I assume that is the piston your are talking about.
My question is that if the big c clip just had broken ends, but was otherwise still intact and still holding the servo in place tightly (it was a real bear to get it out with both ends of the c clip broken off) the overdrive should have been working right? So maybe I have something else wrong with the over drive and pulling everything apart again to put the tip of the piston in place on the indentation in the OD band properly won't fix the OD and is just wasting time and fluid.
I am pretty sure I got all of the pieces and yes, it is the big c clip that had broken ends. I actually removed the servo, I assume that is the piston your are talking about.
My question is that if the big c clip just had broken ends, but was otherwise still intact and still holding the servo in place tightly (it was a real bear to get it out with both ends of the c clip broken off) the overdrive should have been working right? So maybe I have something else wrong with the over drive and pulling everything apart again to put the tip of the piston in place on the indentation in the OD band properly won't fix the OD and is just wasting time and fluid.
The alternative is very expensive.
#75