It's an 04'..this is 4th transmission. The 3rd I think had this problem, but mechanic said the ring that was broke was something else...yeah right.

Anyway..thanks.. I have the gaskets and snap ring.

Hopefully this is the problem and the fix this time.

 

This artical was right on the money ! The exact same thing just happend to my 05 150 with the 4R75E AODE . It saved me money a the trans shop because I gave them the heads up on this Thanks Blair

 

Got things apart.. found a broken piece on top of the retaining plate as in the 1st post...however, I cannot find the smaller piece, it's near the end and the ear, can't be but an inch or inch and half piece. I've looked in all the parts of the valve body and still can't find it. Looked on both sides of valve body.

I'm wondering if it too was sitting on the retaining plate and got drained with the fluid into my oil container?

Here's a pic, is there somewhere I should specifically look? Do I need to take out the OD valve?

The rest of the ring is wedged in the OD servo, intact. Gonna be a bear to get it out. So want to just leave it in as the servo def. is kept in place, but the rest of the ring will probably break at some point.

 

First, I'd like to thank everyone who posted in this thread. It saved me a ton of $$.

Last week, I lost overdrive, just free rev'd (neutral). Man was I bummed out. So remembering this forum, I searched for No Overdrive and found this thread. After reading it several times and a few more google searches, I proceeded to my transmission shop I've been dealing with for over 30 years. First thing he said after describing the problem was that I needed a rebuild because my overdrive bands were shot. I mentioned what I had read in this form, and of course, their response is taken back thinking what does this guy know about transmissions. He relented by offering to perform the work described in this thread, put it back together, but no guarantees and I may waste the $$ to do this VS just going ahead with a rebuild. Cost of rebuild around $4k.

Just for kicks, I went to another transmission shop and the local ford dealer, who's diagnosis and recommendation for a rebuild were the same. Ford wanted $5K for the rebuild.

So a bit nervous, I made an appointment and took it back to the first guy, being a loyal 30 year customer. They did the repair, broken servo retaining clip(hardened), and small servo clip, broken piece fallen in the exact same spot as commonly described in this thread, and he also had on hand (go figure) the Sonnax (overdrive servo regulator boost valve sleeve) replacement valves (2)? which I also had done. Tax in, $650.00.

All is good........Drove away very happy...WITH OverDrive!!!

For those who may be local to me The shop is Tryman's Transmission in Oakville, Ontario.

Really reinforces the term BUYER BEWARE. Got to wonder how many people are dupped into a complete rebuild unnecessarily.

Again, I can't thank you all enough!!! Knowledge is CASH!! Cheers

 

Too bad you are not down in Georgia, I do the repair for $350.

 

smaller piece probably got sucked up in the filter.

 

Follow up..... I found the smallest piece. It wrapped itself around one of the valve thingies (nice and technical term eh?) and only the ends were barely poking up. A small angled pick and a magnetic pickup tool and got it out.

Slapped it all back together and runs great. If I would of been able to find that piece quicker, the job would of only took about an 1-1/2hrs.

Total cost..$40.

DONFX... bummer dude.. $650? Wow.

 

It may seem like lots. Personally, I don't have the space nor the patience to do the work myself. Most shops hourly rates around here are between $90.00 and $130.00 per hour. So a 3 hour job to drop the pan, the valve body, disassemble all the valves, springs, etc, install new clip(s), 2 Sonnax kits, gaskets, transmission fluid, reassembly, road test, might not be so bad. They also have a markup on parts. The clips was $10.00 and a quart of fluid was $12.00 ea.

If I had just let them diagnose and repair, and rebuild the transmission, I would have paid upwards of 4K at the transmission shop, and 5K at the dealer. I guess I feel pretty darn good about avoiding an extra $3K plus and I only lost a few hours of my time.

This thread is, in my opinion, is saving many people tons of $$$$$$

 

I have the same problem (2005 XLT 5.4) and I am pretty handy. But I am a bit confused to how much stuff you have to take apart. The two links talk about a lot of stuff to take apart. Obviously you are doing this from under the truck, but besides changing the filter I really haven't worked on my AT at all. I guess it will make more sense when you are doing it, hopefully. I am worried about lining everything back up again. I guess it's best to change both clips and gaskets, filter and fluid. Are there other parts to change since it's apart.

 

i may be but i just want to thank the op and everyone who posted on here about this issue. i lost functionality of my trany a couple days ago and thought that i had killed it an that i may be out of a truck, i did a google search that lead me here to this thread, after reading this post and looking up a video for the "jmod" what ever that may be (he had a very good video on the tear down and rebuild of the entire valve body for his mod, i just skipped the actual modding part and used his video as a walk through for the taking apart and rebuilding of this) i was able to do the whole job for under $100 including enough fluid to do an entire flush of the trany. thank you everyone again, you guys saved me a mint as i would have left a trany issue to the dealer.

Sunny

video link

 

I just want to thank you all for contributing. I also read this post nine times and followed the video above, and voila I have OD again. Just wish I had a lift and a driveway and it wasn't so damn hot and muggy. But I took my time. My ring broke right at the ends and it was a bear to get out. When I bottle jacked the servo with 3/4 in pipe I could not get a good enough bite with the needle nose vice grips to do anything. the pick and screwdriver method taught me all about how sharp the bottom of the transmission is but no way that was going to work. I ended up cutting a wooden dowel to keep the servo up and wedged it between the ground and servo. Lowered the jack and moved it off center and jacked it up to allow more room to get the needle nose in. Removed the wood dowel and was able to get a good enough bite and pull the ring end out and down enough to work the ring out. The video show that you have your new ring already around your jack assy and are able to put it right in. With the jack offset you can also change the E-clip too, without taking out the servo and having to mess with pushing the OD band up and over the servo shaft. In hindsight I should have used a smaller diameter pipe so I had more room. The rest was really pretty easy because of all the input by so many of you.


Thanks!

 

That video is great isn't it! I had it playing on my laptop as I was tearing it apart and putting it back together. Thanks jmod guy,

 

hello.... I just lost my OD as well,,, tore it down and down and found the broken ring... now I have a question reassembling the valve that has 2 retainer clips and two springs (one yellow one blue) ,, just want to confirm which color goes into the valve body first.. I believe it was yellow (parts 15 and 18 on the diagram Fordbird post above) ,, also need a part number 13 spring clip as mine flew across the room (anyone know where to find one or something that will work - not a dealer oart ) ..... thanks all

 

If you took apart the valve with parts #14-19, thats the wrong valve.

the broken snap ring piece(s) normally get stuck in OD regulator valve which is the next valve over (#9-12/13)

usually you don't need to disassemble the valve, just push the valve over to release the tension and pull the snap ring pieces out with small pliers or tweezers.




about the missing clip, its a common pieces. you may want to try a local transmission shop and see if they have any spares. you might also try a Napa parts store.

 

I have an 07 f150. I just experienced the same issue this morning. My truck would not shift from 2nd to 3rd, it only acted as if it was in neutral. When I turned O/D off, the truck would drive. All the posts I have read, I hope they come in handy for me also. So, is that probably my best bet, a broken snap ring jammed in a valve?