I want to install an auxilliary cooler for my trannsmission. It looks pretty straight forward with any of the brands. But I do have a question for anyone who has done this. I believe you want it in the return line from the radiator. Both lines are metal tubing at the radiator and for about 6 inches then a permanent (non removable) connection is made to a reinforced rubber hose. Do you just cut the metal tube with a tubing cutter and attach the new cooler hose to each end of the metal tube or am I missing something?

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99, XL, SC, SB, auto, 4.6L, 255x70R16, 3.55LS, 2wd, Med Tor, Dk Grph, Raider LoRider Tonneau,

More to come!

 

I don't believe you want to do that. The cooler should come with some adapters to fit the radiator. You may need to go buy it.

 

I am in the process of buying all the parts to put the OEM factory one in my 97 4.6L. I have been told these coolers are the same for all engine sizes (at least in 97's). I have decided to put out the extra $ to get the OEM one. It requires two tubing assemblys that are seperate part numbers. Here they are if anyone is interested.

Tranny Cooler-F75Z-7A-095-CB
Tube assemb. -F7TZ-7F-111-EB
Tube assenb. -F750-7C-410-EA

I am just ordering them Monday so I will have to recomfirm these and when installed I will also reconfirm. The OEM cooler has a built on mounting bracket to bolt right up to the stock Radiator mounting bolts which looks like a much neater install than any after market. Also tubes are bent and precise lines to fit. I was quoted slightly less than $100 for all at my dealer who usually gives me parts at dealer cost. My Father in law is a Body Shop guy that gets things at cost and he is going to check and see how much cheaper he can get them for me. I think It will come in at around $80. This is not much more than an aftermarket so I will probably go this route.

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97 F-150 SC Lariat, Styleside, White over Gold, 4.6L (Windsor), Automatic, 3.55 rear end, electronic 4X4, w/ every option of Lariat and ORP packages except the 17" wheels (I even got the OR decals now!), MOD's so far: K&N air box mod, Gibson Super Truck, clear Bugflector II, Leer TSC 600 hard cover, Bridgestone Dueler OWL ATP 265/75 R-16's, TrailMaster Invader N7 shocks, Smittybilt step bars, Ford moulded mud guards, "White-white" head lamps, Cloud Rider Design's SS Grill and bumper opening "Summer Grill's", Bosch platinum + 4's.

 

I bought a perma cool combination oil and tranny cooler: http://www.perma-cool.com/

I installed it myself. I found they had the best coolers and built them the best.

I have a 6 pass combo cooler. I have the 4 pass part of the cooler cooling my tranny fluid and the 2 pass cooling the engine oil!!!

For connecting a tranny cooler you must do the following:

1) Yes you cut the 1 line coming from the radiator. you can get fittings to do this, however, cutting it and sliding the hose over the lines and using hose clamps works just fine!

2)VERY IMPORTANT STEP!!! Make sure the RETURN LINE coming from the radiator is the line you connect to your cooler because the radiator is also used to help heat the tranny fluid in the winter. You don't want to cool the fluid in the summer and then send the cooled fluid through the radiator either!!!!! Just cut the return line and run the hoses to your cooler!

3) USE VERY GOOD HOSE!!! I can't stress this enough. I used hose that a auto parts store told me was for tranny fluid. Well the fluid eventually started oozing out of the hose. Perma Cool offers THE BEST hose. I have never had the fluid permiate the hose!

4) Call perma cool and they will help you design your application over the phone! I think my total cost was around $250 - $280 for all parts.


Hope this helps!



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Rand

 

The first part number checks out as the Factory OEM Tranny oil auxiliary cooler for the 97's. List price is $84.96. My cost is $67.96 I am waiting for the confirmation call on the tube assemblies cost and numbers.

 

I installed a fluidyne from Autozone and yes you just need to cut the return line to the tranny. Coming out of the radiator run a hose into the cooler and coming out of the cooler run the hose back to the metal return line going back to the tranny. In my opinion you can get a better after market cooler for less money than the OE cooler that Ford uses. The Fluidyne cooler gives you the option to use a bracket mount or zip cords to AC cooler as mounting choices. If you cut your metal line be sure to use a flaring tool to flare both ends of your metal line to hold the rubber hoses on !!!!


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99' F-150 XLT SC 4X4 ORP LS 4.6L - K&N Air Filter & Custom 3" Intake from fender to TB, Superchip, PowerAid, Rapidflow 3" single CatBack exhaust, Fluidyne Trany cooler, A.R.E. Cover, Duraliner bed liner.

 

Thanks for the responses all. I'll be getting the fluidyne. Fleet hast it for under $50 and it looks like its well made. Now I just have to work up the courage to cut the trans fluid line.

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99, XL, SC, SB, auto, 4.6L, 255x70R16, 3.55LS, 2wd, Med Tor, Dk Grph, Raider LoRider Tonneau,

More to come!

 

Well... the premise I am going on is that the OEM one is designed exacly to the spec's of the Ford enginners for the 4R70W tranny. It is also designed to fit precisly in the correct location and have the exact cooling requirements Ford desires for the 4R70W. because it has factory tubing assemblies it does not require cutting and make shift fitting. It just relocates existing lines and performs the required connections with factory type crimped lines that will fit the OEM cooler's and OEM radiator's existing inlets and outlets. I think that's better. I was leaning towards the B&M one myself but was also concerned about the cutting and fitting part and getting the exact size for proper cooling. So for that reason I am not opposed to spending the $30-40 dollars extra to get a very clean functional and professional install rather than cutting and fitting things to do it. To each his own I guess. A fact we all can agree on: Any auxiliary cooler is better than no auxiliary cooler.

 

Cphilip

It's all about personal preference and it sounds like you will have a great set up once you are done. That is one of the reasons why this site so valuable, the differing opinions and information shared. Report back and let us know how it turns out, good luck

.


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99' F-150 XLT SC 4X4 ORP LS 4.6L - K&N Air Filter & Custom 3" Intake from fender to TB, Superchip, PowerAid, Rapidflow 3" single CatBack exhaust, Fluidyne Trany cooler, A.R.E. Cover, Duraliner bed liner.

 

Will do BigRed2 but I am still waiting on them to get me the prices on the tubing assemblies. Two days now and no call. I am still not certain it will go off as planned. If they are just dissin me or can't seem to get em? I will probably bug them today but since I am going through my Pa in law it may be on his end? I will revert to plan "B" and go aftermarket without hesitation if my dream plan falls through. I will let you guys know when I hear. I also plan on measuring these assemblies before I install so I can let everyone know if they can be used with the aftermarket coolers. The diameter and threads per inch of the male fittings that is.

 

For physical size most aftermarket coolers are larger than the factory unit. If you're installing a cooler go for the larger units. That way it should handle any load you want to place on it such as a larger trailer or a lot of weight in the truck.
I have considered adding an aftermarket cooler in line with my factory cooler.

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97 F-150, 2WD, Reg Cab,Flareside,Dk Toreador Red, Windsor 4.6, Magnecor 8.5mm wires, Bosch Plat +4s, 3.55 LS, EGR Bug Deflector, ******* Bed Cover, Bed Liner, XL Full Length Running Boards, Air Aid Kit, Gibson Single Out Cat Back, Superchips, TransGo Shift Kit, Hellwig Rear Sway Bar, Hellwig 2500# Overload Springs

 

I hope this response is not dilluting Tiger's original post, but I need to add to them...
I've installed aux coolers 5-6 times and always connected form the reurn line by cutting the tubing. When doing this, I've been very careful to keep the cut clean and not get any metal flecks in the fluid. I sand the ends then crank a little trany fluid through the line just to make sure nothing is stuck in the line, then I use two, not one, hose clamps to secure the line. (I'm paranoid the line may come off).

I checked with my dealer here about purchasing an original additive aux cooler from Ford and he said he would sell me one, but it was a Hayden brand that I could purchase from an auto parts store for about 1/3 the price he could sell it for. He said it isn't even disguised as a Ford brand. It is packaged in a Foed box but when you open it, it says Hayden al over it!
Anyway, I thought this was interesting.
good luck, Tiger, in your install!!

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1999 F250SD, XLT, 4x2, SC, V10, 4.30, LT235x85x16R, Longbed, mud flaps,Trailer tow Pkg, Class IV hitch, Camper special, sliding rear window, rear privacy glass, Ford rain gutters, Lund wind screen, Banks Trans Command, Banks tranny temp guage with Auto Meter single guage pod. Reese 15K fifth wheel hitch

 

F250NUT, That is good stuff. I will look into that. Of course we all know ford doesn't make much of any of this kind of thing. But the problem is the matching Hayden numbers (or any other OEM supplier for that matter) to Ford numbers. Ford puts em in the Motorcraft box with their numbers on em from the one I saw. Hard to get info on which one to buy. But this kind of info puts you on the right track when you have at least a good leed on who the supplier might be. Wonder if Hayden has a URL?

Now who the heck makes those little tube assemblies? Hayden as well?

[This message has been edited by cphilip (edited 01-19-2000).]

 

F250NUT
Do you flare the ends of the tube like one of the other responses suggested?

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99, XL, SC, SB, auto, 4.6L, 255x70R16, 3.55LS, 2wd, Med Tor, Dk Grph, Raider LoRider Tonneau,

More to come!

 

Tiger, I've never actually flared the end(s) myself, however, I happened to have a flared fitting once(can't remember where I got it) and screwed that into the return hole from transmission, then slipped my tubing over that, installed one hose clamp and that was it. But, since I've never had another fitting like that one (it was about 2-3" long), I've just done a careful sawing job and used two hoseclamps. Never had a problem with either method.
I suppose if I were to do it again, I'd probably try to locate a flared fitting again, or attempt to flare the existing end. I think the tools are relatively cheap.

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1999 F250SD, XLT, 4x2, SC, V10, 4.30, LT235x85x16R, Longbed, mud flaps,Trailer tow Pkg, Class IV hitch, Camper special, sliding rear window, rear privacy glass, Ford rain gutters, Lund wind screen, Banks Trans Command, Banks tranny temp guage with Auto Meter single guage pod. Reese 15K fifth wheel hitch