? for BigBunnell
#1
#2
Well, It was pretty easy. I have the manual shift transfer case. So all I had to do was not let the GEM know that I shifted into 4wd. this kept it from engageing the CAD. But I was able to let it know that it was in low range. Thats important for people with automatic transmissions, because it will change your shift points. With a little creativity and a lighted switch, I waqs able to get my 4wd indicator, and the lighted switch to work the way I wanted.(with the transfer case in 4hi or 4lo, and the switch off, the 4wd lights up normally. But with the switch on, it would light up with the Tcase in 4hi or 4lo.)
I've had it on for about a year now, with nothing but good results.
I did some looking at the time, and came up with a system for the shift on the fly systems, but I had no ones truck to play on. sorry I cant be more specific right now, about what circuits I used and all, I'm at work, and don't have all my notes and stuff. Let me know, if you want to know more, and I'll be glad to help.
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BigBunnell
98 F150 4X4 XLT flareside V6 5sp K&N Flowmaster and some other goodies
I've had it on for about a year now, with nothing but good results.
I did some looking at the time, and came up with a system for the shift on the fly systems, but I had no ones truck to play on. sorry I cant be more specific right now, about what circuits I used and all, I'm at work, and don't have all my notes and stuff. Let me know, if you want to know more, and I'll be glad to help.
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BigBunnell
98 F150 4X4 XLT flareside V6 5sp K&N Flowmaster and some other goodies
#6
Big,
I have the 4.2/5-spd/manual transfer case set-up and very interested in your mod. More info if you don't mind. Thanks, Doc
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2000 F-150 4x4
4.2L, 5-speed,
3.55 Limited Slip,
reg. cab, short bed,
ORP package (added),
Fog Lights (added),
Super-flip-chipped
...much more to come....
Wife: 2000 Ranger Trailhead Package
I have the 4.2/5-spd/manual transfer case set-up and very interested in your mod. More info if you don't mind. Thanks, Doc
------------------
2000 F-150 4x4
4.2L, 5-speed,
3.55 Limited Slip,
reg. cab, short bed,
ORP package (added),
Fog Lights (added),
Super-flip-chipped
...much more to come....
Wife: 2000 Ranger Trailhead Package
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Alright, here goes
What you will need:
1-5 pole relay (standard parts store variety)
1-lighted switch (rocker, toggle, whatever turns you on)
wire, terminals, 3M line taps, tape basic wiring stuff like that.
Circuits to find:
Transfer case position sensor- This is the sensor on the front of the transfer case with two wires coming out, one Light blue with a black stripe, the other grey. The grey one is the one you will cut. This is the 4x4 indicator circuit. The LB/BK wire is for low range indicator, you don't touch this one.
A +12V that is hot in run only- I tapped into the wiring harness for my aftermarket CD player, because it is right there where my switch is. Be sure to use a circuit that is fuse protected, you don't need to use another fuse, because the draw should be minimal(the signal side of a relay, and an led in the switch).
What to do:
1) you need to run two wires, different colors, from where your relay will be through the fire wall, and down to the transfer case. Cut the grey wire from the transfer case position sensor approx. 10 inches or so from the transfer case( So you have room to work). Attatch a wire to each side of your cut. I soldered and used glue filled heat shrink tubing because I'm not shy about deep water. But, male and female disconects would be great, as long as you tape it up good, because you could return to "factory" easily. What ever you do, remember which color goes to the sensor, and which color goes to the factory harness. tie these wires up neatly, being sure to keep them away from exhaust pipes.
2) the wire from the sensor side of you cut need to go to terminals #30 AND #85 on the relay. The wire from the harness side needs to go to terminal #87a on the relay.
3) you need a wire from your above mentioned +12v source to run to the terminal on your switch labeled "batt" or "12v"
4) Run a wire from the terminal on your switch labeled "accessory" or "load" to terminal #86 on your relay
5) run another wire from the terminal on your switch labeled "ground" to terminal #87 on your relay.
Thats it, with the switch on, and in 4hi or 4lo, your switch should light up, and your 4x4 light on the dash wont. I've actually been leaving my switch on, because I use 2lo more than 4x4, and it affects nothing until the t-case is put in 4hi or 4lo.
I hope you have good luck with it. I realize its a little complicated. If you decide its a little too complicated for you, I might consider making up the harness for you to put in.
------------------
BigBunnell
98 F150 4X4 XLT flareside V6 5sp K&N Flowmaster and some other goodies
What you will need:
1-5 pole relay (standard parts store variety)
1-lighted switch (rocker, toggle, whatever turns you on)
wire, terminals, 3M line taps, tape basic wiring stuff like that.
Circuits to find:
Transfer case position sensor- This is the sensor on the front of the transfer case with two wires coming out, one Light blue with a black stripe, the other grey. The grey one is the one you will cut. This is the 4x4 indicator circuit. The LB/BK wire is for low range indicator, you don't touch this one.
A +12V that is hot in run only- I tapped into the wiring harness for my aftermarket CD player, because it is right there where my switch is. Be sure to use a circuit that is fuse protected, you don't need to use another fuse, because the draw should be minimal(the signal side of a relay, and an led in the switch).
What to do:
1) you need to run two wires, different colors, from where your relay will be through the fire wall, and down to the transfer case. Cut the grey wire from the transfer case position sensor approx. 10 inches or so from the transfer case( So you have room to work). Attatch a wire to each side of your cut. I soldered and used glue filled heat shrink tubing because I'm not shy about deep water. But, male and female disconects would be great, as long as you tape it up good, because you could return to "factory" easily. What ever you do, remember which color goes to the sensor, and which color goes to the factory harness. tie these wires up neatly, being sure to keep them away from exhaust pipes.
2) the wire from the sensor side of you cut need to go to terminals #30 AND #85 on the relay. The wire from the harness side needs to go to terminal #87a on the relay.
3) you need a wire from your above mentioned +12v source to run to the terminal on your switch labeled "batt" or "12v"
4) Run a wire from the terminal on your switch labeled "accessory" or "load" to terminal #86 on your relay
5) run another wire from the terminal on your switch labeled "ground" to terminal #87 on your relay.
Thats it, with the switch on, and in 4hi or 4lo, your switch should light up, and your 4x4 light on the dash wont. I've actually been leaving my switch on, because I use 2lo more than 4x4, and it affects nothing until the t-case is put in 4hi or 4lo.
I hope you have good luck with it. I realize its a little complicated. If you decide its a little too complicated for you, I might consider making up the harness for you to put in.
------------------
BigBunnell
98 F150 4X4 XLT flareside V6 5sp K&N Flowmaster and some other goodies
#9