4.2 nay sayers
#18
07-09-2012 | 10:12 PM
Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
love my 4.2 dont think ill ever let her go ive got 280,000km on mine had the intake gaskets go but caught it in time but seeing how its built date was 12/97 i was expecting it and i took my motor out because of a dipstick tube and after 280,000 km all my crank clearances were still inspec
#19
08-09-2012 | 08:13 PM
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
v6 4.2L nightmare maybe this will help you
I've purchased a 1999 shortbed 4.2L F150 XL from a friend over a year ago. It was to replace my 2000 Dakota.
The truck was in fair condition body and paint since it was construction truck or shows signs of it being in for that or landscaping.
Truck has been problems from mile #9 , when I got on my I75 hwy and at 72mph it was start to miss. That problem was easy to diagnose. Back plug #6 was completely corrode and the wire was open. New wires and plugs was installed.
It also had a bad vent thing on the gas tank. So I found another one and was able to screw in on the rear side of the tank and install it. That fix the visual broken vent, but I still continued to have gas smell. So I bought a new gas cap. That did nothing, and then I had the vacuum that runs to the EVAP purge was corrode, splitting, and in poor shape. Ford yes Ford, wanted almost 90 dollars for that hose. Rock auto was still around $50.00
So I bought some supper dupper red almost fail proof hose from NAPA, snatched up the quick release plugs and rebuilt that hose for maybe $12.00
next, I found my CamShaft sensor was bad along with DTC for the IMR sensor. Once again Ford wanted $8.00 per nylon bushing sleeves. I bought 2 packs from Discount Auto and replace those insert along with my new sleeves. And still had over 5 left over.
Still this truck was not running right
So looking into it more, it had zero power. I mean if you meerge into speeds on the hwy, I had to power on in 3rd gear to just get in on the hwy.
So next, we looked at the EDIS coils. I replace this from Autozone. And still no power and the fuel vapor smells was getting stronger.
My gas mileage at that time was maybe 14mph hwy.
Okay after replacing the coil pack, my 1st driver-side tire decided to break up. These tires via Coopers, looked good, but failed horribly. $450.00 later and after buying from tire rack. I laid out new rubber on her feet, with some Yokohama.
Now back to my engine, I found out that Radiator was clogged one hot Sept day. At first I mis-diagnose that it was a stick close t-stat. But after pulling the radiator side tanks. The bottom half was coated with some hard desposits and clog.
My new or new to me truck was giving me headaches after headaches.
The truck was in fair condition body and paint since it was construction truck or shows signs of it being in for that or landscaping.
Truck has been problems from mile #9 , when I got on my I75 hwy and at 72mph it was start to miss. That problem was easy to diagnose. Back plug #6 was completely corrode and the wire was open. New wires and plugs was installed.
It also had a bad vent thing on the gas tank. So I found another one and was able to screw in on the rear side of the tank and install it. That fix the visual broken vent, but I still continued to have gas smell. So I bought a new gas cap. That did nothing, and then I had the vacuum that runs to the EVAP purge was corrode, splitting, and in poor shape. Ford yes Ford, wanted almost 90 dollars for that hose. Rock auto was still around $50.00
So I bought some supper dupper red almost fail proof hose from NAPA, snatched up the quick release plugs and rebuilt that hose for maybe $12.00
next, I found my CamShaft sensor was bad along with DTC for the IMR sensor. Once again Ford wanted $8.00 per nylon bushing sleeves. I bought 2 packs from Discount Auto and replace those insert along with my new sleeves. And still had over 5 left over.
Still this truck was not running right
So looking into it more, it had zero power. I mean if you meerge into speeds on the hwy, I had to power on in 3rd gear to just get in on the hwy.
So next, we looked at the EDIS coils. I replace this from Autozone. And still no power and the fuel vapor smells was getting stronger.
My gas mileage at that time was maybe 14mph hwy.
Okay after replacing the coil pack, my 1st driver-side tire decided to break up. These tires via Coopers, looked good, but failed horribly. $450.00 later and after buying from tire rack. I laid out new rubber on her feet, with some Yokohama.
Now back to my engine, I found out that Radiator was clogged one hot Sept day. At first I mis-diagnose that it was a stick close t-stat. But after pulling the radiator side tanks. The bottom half was coated with some hard desposits and clog.
My new or new to me truck was giving me headaches after headaches.
Last edited by f150florida; 08-09-2012 at 09:13 PM.
#20
08-09-2012 | 08:31 PM
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Okay part2
up to this point I spent approx;
$200.00 radiator
$10.00 IMR bushings
$9.00 upper plenum gasket
$450 + 70 mounting on tires
$12 vacuum line
$98 dollars plug wires and plugs
$56 on coilmodule
$25 gator water belt
$3 t-stat
$66 upper and lower hose
$28 camshaft sensor
$18 gas cap
And still I had a truck with zero power. So investigating even more, reading threads on this site and others. Read stories of person with the same problems. I really wish my truck would have caught on fire or somebody T-bone me.
In my Miami I95 traffic, I was praying for a accident where a driver would hit me and total me out
So on to more diagnostics. I found my vent line that runs from the top front of the tank to the metal rail was rotting out. I replace those lines but still more smells of fuel and gas mpg 14-15mpg
When looking at my cap, I found that the lip of the filler was actually cracked. So off to the JY and I snatched a fill tube from a 97 and then a 2001 F150. I found after getting the 97 that it was slightly different. So I replace that fill tube and smell of fumes went away and mpg went up to 17.2mpg
Moving on, still truck has no power and was slowly developing a miss on acceleration and cruise ( stay with me on that one, we will revisit this )
So I let some friends of my diagnose the issues. No DTC, so automatically assume fuel-filter. So off to AutoZone and a new Fram filter plus a KN filter element.
NO improvement
So we took more fuel-rails readings and the pressure was right at the minimal of the haynes book.
Still no improvements, and nothing indicating what could be wrong. I was out of options. So I made a choice to start throwing parts at it. My actron scanner would not pick up any new codes, showed fuel trims working high and bank #2 HEGO not switching that much.
So since the problem seem acceleration related I first mis-diagnose the issue as a bad TPS. So the TPS was easy to get at. It was changed, status unchanged no improvement.
Next, I figured the front 02s where bad. So I drop new HEGOs frt and back at 45 dollars a piece. Still no improvement.
Next, a guy told me clogged cats, but another shop said clog fuel or tank strainer. So I flipped coin and bought new down wind cats and had them weld in, even tho Mad Max muffler shop warn me that this was probably not the issue. I was trying my best to avoid dropping the tank.
After this action, truck run slightly better if that.
So next, I replaced IAC knowing that was not the issues. I just did it cause it was easy to get to and simple to change. Next I cleaned out the DPFE hose and then it darned on me that this could be a issue.
So in doing this option, I pulled the EGR valve and pulled out a globbed of caked deposit at where the tube fitted the manifold. Problems solved or I thought .
A slight improvement, but still no power, pissed poor power. To give you an ideal of how bad the acceleration was. At 60mphs, I could be in 4th or even worst 5th gear, and with the accelerator press to the floor that truck would accelerate like 1mph increase every 1.5 miles
At this point I really want this truck to burn up or for some other driver to t-bone me
Too Be Continue
up to this point I spent approx;
$200.00 radiator
$10.00 IMR bushings
$9.00 upper plenum gasket
$450 + 70 mounting on tires
$12 vacuum line
$98 dollars plug wires and plugs
$56 on coilmodule
$25 gator water belt
$3 t-stat
$66 upper and lower hose
$28 camshaft sensor
$18 gas cap
And still I had a truck with zero power. So investigating even more, reading threads on this site and others. Read stories of person with the same problems. I really wish my truck would have caught on fire or somebody T-bone me.
In my Miami I95 traffic, I was praying for a accident where a driver would hit me and total me out
So on to more diagnostics. I found my vent line that runs from the top front of the tank to the metal rail was rotting out. I replace those lines but still more smells of fuel and gas mpg 14-15mpg
When looking at my cap, I found that the lip of the filler was actually cracked. So off to the JY and I snatched a fill tube from a 97 and then a 2001 F150. I found after getting the 97 that it was slightly different. So I replace that fill tube and smell of fumes went away and mpg went up to 17.2mpg
Moving on, still truck has no power and was slowly developing a miss on acceleration and cruise ( stay with me on that one, we will revisit this )
So I let some friends of my diagnose the issues. No DTC, so automatically assume fuel-filter. So off to AutoZone and a new Fram filter plus a KN filter element.
NO improvement
So we took more fuel-rails readings and the pressure was right at the minimal of the haynes book.
Still no improvements, and nothing indicating what could be wrong. I was out of options. So I made a choice to start throwing parts at it. My actron scanner would not pick up any new codes, showed fuel trims working high and bank #2 HEGO not switching that much.
So since the problem seem acceleration related I first mis-diagnose the issue as a bad TPS. So the TPS was easy to get at. It was changed, status unchanged no improvement.
Next, I figured the front 02s where bad. So I drop new HEGOs frt and back at 45 dollars a piece. Still no improvement.
Next, a guy told me clogged cats, but another shop said clog fuel or tank strainer. So I flipped coin and bought new down wind cats and had them weld in, even tho Mad Max muffler shop warn me that this was probably not the issue. I was trying my best to avoid dropping the tank.
After this action, truck run slightly better if that.
So next, I replaced IAC knowing that was not the issues. I just did it cause it was easy to get to and simple to change. Next I cleaned out the DPFE hose and then it darned on me that this could be a issue.
So in doing this option, I pulled the EGR valve and pulled out a globbed of caked deposit at where the tube fitted the manifold. Problems solved or I thought .
A slight improvement, but still no power, pissed poor power. To give you an ideal of how bad the acceleration was. At 60mphs, I could be in 4th or even worst 5th gear, and with the accelerator press to the floor that truck would accelerate like 1mph increase every 1.5 miles
At this point I really want this truck to burn up or for some other driver to t-bone me
Too Be Continue
Last edited by f150florida; 08-09-2012 at 09:16 PM.
#21
08-09-2012 | 09:08 PM
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Okay Part 3
After replacing the DPFE hoses, the DPFE sensor and then for the heck up it, and since I was in that corner of the engine. I threw 67 dollars more into the pot , & changed the actually EGR valve even tho my mighty vac and mouth confirm the valve was not leaking or bad.
Bam........ my poor acceleration went away but I had a new problem.
1st it started as a new miss or sluggishness and then my v6 4.2L late model 1999, started doing some new. It was act like the engine was without no gas. A full tank, half tank, quarter tank,,, it didn't matter.
So this had me baffle for 4-8 weeks as I struggle to comprehend what was going on. I didn't want to drop the tank but the problem got so worst and so frequent that i started to get a lean bank #2 code or right bank#2 code. The truck would stall some morning or evening to/from work, that I would stay in the far right lane and had to turn the key off and then back on and pop the clutch in whatever gear I was on to jolt the truck back.
After 2months of this, I finally dropped the tank. Yes $167.00 pump was purchased at this point . And one raining day in the last part of June 2012. I dropped the tank and was hoping to see a glob of trash or sign of a failed pump in the tank.
Nope, just a bad look rubber thing around the pump in the middle. Oh well I threw in my new pump, re-lifted the tank and broke the vent-tube things that I just replaced like 8 months back. Dammmmm,,,,,,,,,,
off to JY again and I salvage 2 blue vents from a 2003 F150 that some already dropped the tank oh.
After more swear'in and crammed up in the back, underneath the bed,. I put the new tank vent. Still no power, poor acceleration, DTC for bank#2 hego #1 coming and going and truck wants to stall.
Man I really wanted someone to t-bone me, truck fire or rear-ended
So I pull my codes, looked my haynes manual out and reviewed all sensors;
TPS check
EEC Not going there
IAC check
EGR sensor check
knock Sensor in the back of the head ( not going there, don't even think you can get that one out within engine in place and plenum on )
ECT sensor check, I replaced that awhile back ( no difference btw )
4 HEGOs check check check & check
CPS check
hey what's this sensor at the front of the engine?
So I finally thought I found my demon. Maybe, just maybe this sensor was bad. I got my 8mm long socket and 1/4" drive and took out the 2 bolts, I had to pry that dam things up and off the engine and even one tab broke and stayed attached to the front cover
So after tapping, cussin, more tappin, cussin, I finally got it off and installed my new autozone bwd brand iirc sensor. That was only $18.00 dollars btw.
Man I knew I found that issue. I just knew I found it. right ?
Wrong.
Same issues. No power, 16mpg fuel, no acceleration, stumbling, cutting off in some weird cases, Bank #2 lean or rich depending on her mood , time of day or that month.
So I finally replaced bank #2 sensor #1 and my lean/rich switching issue went away DTC 1511/1512 iirc. So a new HEGO less than 3 months was bad.
So now slightly better acceleration, but still no power, bad economy. Man I was at the end of the rope. Or let's say, this truck was at the end of her rope
At this point I was contemplating driving this truck down to MIA pork&bean housing project and paying someone to steal her, as long as they would burn it and I didn't want it recovered
So looking back over the course of now 13 months of owndership and 9k miles later;
I replaced the following;
$200.00 radiator
$10.00 IMR bushings
$9.00 upper plenum gasket
$450 + 70 mounting on tires
$12 vacuum line
$98 dollars plug wires and plugs
$56 on coilmodule
$25 gator water belt
$3 t-stat
$66 upper and lower hose
$28 camshaft sensor
$18 gas cap
$0.00 ECT stole it from a JY
$0.00 vent-thing stole it from JY
$18.00 CrankShaftSensor
$167.00 gas tank pump
$20.00 fram filter
$60 FPR ( I missed that one, it was changed right about the time of the filter )
$9.00 for yet another gasket when I did the FPR ( why on earth with Ford put it in that place , and specially since all of my other ford products had it in the front )
$200+ on 4 HEGOs
$44 on a another one since I couldn't fine my receipt to replace the faulty HEGO
$ approx 40 dollars on seafoam over the course of this 10-11month period.
I also spent about $120.00 on shocks, $100 for some new flooring, $25 on a window, and $36 on sealant due to my attempt at sealing the window was not good and I was liking water. I also changed all pad, and shoes.
I found a leaky rear axle seal, so I replaced both side.Autozone didn't have a bearing puller so the bearings stayed in placed. After my new pad, my front caliper was sticky. So I bought the integral rotor-hub things and thew in new bearings and hoses.
Now everything except the injectors has been replaced and I had a truck with a whole bunch of parts and no light at the end of the tunnel.
man I was pissed , pissed at this junky truck, the problems and more problems. And every day I pray a fire, crash or wild-fire , would consume this truck
On a hunch and just a hunch, I went to a JY to look at some 4.2L v6. Some thing had to be missing , something had to be over-looked. Some thing is not right.
What could it be ?
I remember on my Dakota, that most post 1995 OBD2 compliant cars has a sensor in the diff. yes in the diff. Hmmmmmmmm,.......................?
Could it be that sensor? Could it ?
I snatched 2 out of a roll of 2 f150s , and installed a 2001 diff sensor into my diff. reset the computer like for the 5K th time.
Believe it or not, that fix my problem. Yes the speed sensor thing in the diff, fixed my poor acceleration, no power, stumbling, and bad cruise.
The symptoms in my truck where part throttle accel was bad. Actually WOT was much better and I believed that was only due to CL vrs OL loop.
Yes a diff sensor fix my truck. It now has made a 100 % recovered ( still crossing my fingers ) and gas mileage for the last 3 weeks has been at 19mpg.
I'm praying nothing else comes up, but people have really lied about the F150 4.2L v6 w/5sp is a reliable truck
I would not buy another one, should have kept my 1994 5.0L v8 ShortBed, and glad I kept my 2000 Dakota that stills maintains 19-21mpg on a 3.9L magnum v6 which still has more power than this ford crap.
For all of the monies spent buy the truck and replacing a ****load of parts, I could have use that in repainting the damage clear that plaguing most Dakotas in my age.
Both of my current trucks are about the same age and the Dodge has just hit 189K on a 2000 v6 3.9L w/5sp and I 'm betting on the 11 years I own her ( 1st owner ) i might have spent 1.2K dollars which includes 2 pumps, failed crank-sensor, 3 sets of wires, 3 sets of plugs, stuck open t-stat ( twice ), failed pump bypass hose( the one hard to get to btw ), and a cracked radiator filler tube thing. And I will throw in one stuck passenger side caliper.
I would not buy any ford product newer than 1995
sorry about the grammar, but thought I would chime in on this thread and my experience on my ford F150.
After replacing the DPFE hoses, the DPFE sensor and then for the heck up it, and since I was in that corner of the engine. I threw 67 dollars more into the pot , & changed the actually EGR valve even tho my mighty vac and mouth confirm the valve was not leaking or bad.
Bam........ my poor acceleration went away but I had a new problem.
1st it started as a new miss or sluggishness and then my v6 4.2L late model 1999, started doing some new. It was act like the engine was without no gas. A full tank, half tank, quarter tank,,, it didn't matter.
So this had me baffle for 4-8 weeks as I struggle to comprehend what was going on. I didn't want to drop the tank but the problem got so worst and so frequent that i started to get a lean bank #2 code or right bank#2 code. The truck would stall some morning or evening to/from work, that I would stay in the far right lane and had to turn the key off and then back on and pop the clutch in whatever gear I was on to jolt the truck back.
After 2months of this, I finally dropped the tank. Yes $167.00 pump was purchased at this point . And one raining day in the last part of June 2012. I dropped the tank and was hoping to see a glob of trash or sign of a failed pump in the tank.
Nope, just a bad look rubber thing around the pump in the middle. Oh well I threw in my new pump, re-lifted the tank and broke the vent-tube things that I just replaced like 8 months back. Dammmmm,,,,,,,,,,
off to JY again and I salvage 2 blue vents from a 2003 F150 that some already dropped the tank oh.
After more swear'in and crammed up in the back, underneath the bed,. I put the new tank vent. Still no power, poor acceleration, DTC for bank#2 hego #1 coming and going and truck wants to stall.
Man I really wanted someone to t-bone me, truck fire or rear-ended
So I pull my codes, looked my haynes manual out and reviewed all sensors;
TPS check
EEC Not going there
IAC check
EGR sensor check
knock Sensor in the back of the head ( not going there, don't even think you can get that one out within engine in place and plenum on )
ECT sensor check, I replaced that awhile back ( no difference btw )
4 HEGOs check check check & check
CPS check
hey what's this sensor at the front of the engine?
So I finally thought I found my demon. Maybe, just maybe this sensor was bad. I got my 8mm long socket and 1/4" drive and took out the 2 bolts, I had to pry that dam things up and off the engine and even one tab broke and stayed attached to the front cover
So after tapping, cussin, more tappin, cussin, I finally got it off and installed my new autozone bwd brand iirc sensor. That was only $18.00 dollars btw.
Man I knew I found that issue. I just knew I found it. right ?
Wrong.
Same issues. No power, 16mpg fuel, no acceleration, stumbling, cutting off in some weird cases, Bank #2 lean or rich depending on her mood , time of day or that month.
So I finally replaced bank #2 sensor #1 and my lean/rich switching issue went away DTC 1511/1512 iirc. So a new HEGO less than 3 months was bad.
So now slightly better acceleration, but still no power, bad economy. Man I was at the end of the rope. Or let's say, this truck was at the end of her rope
At this point I was contemplating driving this truck down to MIA pork&bean housing project and paying someone to steal her, as long as they would burn it and I didn't want it recovered
So looking back over the course of now 13 months of owndership and 9k miles later;
I replaced the following;
$200.00 radiator
$10.00 IMR bushings
$9.00 upper plenum gasket
$450 + 70 mounting on tires
$12 vacuum line
$98 dollars plug wires and plugs
$56 on coilmodule
$25 gator water belt
$3 t-stat
$66 upper and lower hose
$28 camshaft sensor
$18 gas cap
$0.00 ECT stole it from a JY
$0.00 vent-thing stole it from JY
$18.00 CrankShaftSensor
$167.00 gas tank pump
$20.00 fram filter
$60 FPR ( I missed that one, it was changed right about the time of the filter )
$9.00 for yet another gasket when I did the FPR ( why on earth with Ford put it in that place , and specially since all of my other ford products had it in the front )
$200+ on 4 HEGOs
$44 on a another one since I couldn't fine my receipt to replace the faulty HEGO
$ approx 40 dollars on seafoam over the course of this 10-11month period.
I also spent about $120.00 on shocks, $100 for some new flooring, $25 on a window, and $36 on sealant due to my attempt at sealing the window was not good and I was liking water. I also changed all pad, and shoes.
I found a leaky rear axle seal, so I replaced both side.Autozone didn't have a bearing puller so the bearings stayed in placed. After my new pad, my front caliper was sticky. So I bought the integral rotor-hub things and thew in new bearings and hoses.
Now everything except the injectors has been replaced and I had a truck with a whole bunch of parts and no light at the end of the tunnel.
man I was pissed , pissed at this junky truck, the problems and more problems. And every day I pray a fire, crash or wild-fire , would consume this truck
On a hunch and just a hunch, I went to a JY to look at some 4.2L v6. Some thing had to be missing , something had to be over-looked. Some thing is not right.
What could it be ?
I remember on my Dakota, that most post 1995 OBD2 compliant cars has a sensor in the diff. yes in the diff. Hmmmmmmmm,.......................?
Could it be that sensor? Could it ?
I snatched 2 out of a roll of 2 f150s , and installed a 2001 diff sensor into my diff. reset the computer like for the 5K th time.
Believe it or not, that fix my problem. Yes the speed sensor thing in the diff, fixed my poor acceleration, no power, stumbling, and bad cruise.
The symptoms in my truck where part throttle accel was bad. Actually WOT was much better and I believed that was only due to CL vrs OL loop.
Yes a diff sensor fix my truck. It now has made a 100 % recovered ( still crossing my fingers ) and gas mileage for the last 3 weeks has been at 19mpg.
I'm praying nothing else comes up, but people have really lied about the F150 4.2L v6 w/5sp is a reliable truck
I would not buy another one, should have kept my 1994 5.0L v8 ShortBed, and glad I kept my 2000 Dakota that stills maintains 19-21mpg on a 3.9L magnum v6 which still has more power than this ford crap.
For all of the monies spent buy the truck and replacing a ****load of parts, I could have use that in repainting the damage clear that plaguing most Dakotas in my age.
Both of my current trucks are about the same age and the Dodge has just hit 189K on a 2000 v6 3.9L w/5sp and I 'm betting on the 11 years I own her ( 1st owner ) i might have spent 1.2K dollars which includes 2 pumps, failed crank-sensor, 3 sets of wires, 3 sets of plugs, stuck open t-stat ( twice ), failed pump bypass hose( the one hard to get to btw ), and a cracked radiator filler tube thing. And I will throw in one stuck passenger side caliper.
I would not buy any ford product newer than 1995
sorry about the grammar, but thought I would chime in on this thread and my experience on my ford F150.
Last edited by f150florida; 08-09-2012 at 09:25 PM.
#22
08-10-2012 | 11:06 AM
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: TX
This cost me an engine in 2004 after 88K miles. Other than that, I've had no problems. Gets me from point A to B.
#23
08-10-2012 | 11:13 AM
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 43,294
Likes: 775
From: Joplin MO
Let's see - you bought a 10+ year old work truck that was in "fair" condition, it obviously had not been maintained properly, so you are saying that all 4.2 trucks are not reliable?
Gimme a break.
I have 157k on mine, and the only UNEXPECTED failures on mine have been the clutch slave cylinder, a front wheel bearing, and plenum gaskets/isolator bolts. I think that's pretty darn reliable overall.
Spark plugs, wires, coil pack, alternator, battery, u-joints, front brakes - I consider those normal maintenance items.
Gimme a break.
I have 157k on mine, and the only UNEXPECTED failures on mine have been the clutch slave cylinder, a front wheel bearing, and plenum gaskets/isolator bolts. I think that's pretty darn reliable overall.
Spark plugs, wires, coil pack, alternator, battery, u-joints, front brakes - I consider those normal maintenance items.
#24
08-10-2012 | 10:01 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,121
Likes: 3
From: Burlington, VT
#25
08-11-2012 | 01:48 AM
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,581
Likes: 6
From: Corona, Crazyfornia
WOW! I gotta know what code it was that directed you to start pitching parts at it like that! Maybe BofA-86.
I know that if I started throwing parts at it like that I would probably have to call in a relief pitcher.
I know what you mean about these motors being a POS. Mine only has about 225,000 and already I've had to replace;
1 alternator
3 batteries (So Cal heat eats them up)
isolator bolts
2 sets of spark plugs
numerous oil filters and changes
a bunch of air cleaners
And just last week that piece of junk had the gall to need a tensioner and idler pulley....so just for S&G (at 225,000 miles) I also replaced the ORIGINAL serpintine belt.
I don't know what Ford was thinking when they put these money pits on the road!
But REALLY? Wheel speed sensor caused ALL that stuff to need replacing, REALLY?
<Sarcasm off>
This is probably the best vehicle I have EVER owned! BTW it is my DD construction work truck and hauls it's fair share of weight every day of it's life. With the exception of checking the oil and filling the gas tank I wouldn't hesitate to drive it
completely across the country right now.
I know that if I started throwing parts at it like that I would probably have to call in a relief pitcher.
I know what you mean about these motors being a POS. Mine only has about 225,000 and already I've had to replace;
1 alternator
3 batteries (So Cal heat eats them up)
isolator bolts
2 sets of spark plugs
numerous oil filters and changes
a bunch of air cleaners
And just last week that piece of junk had the gall to need a tensioner and idler pulley....so just for S&G (at 225,000 miles) I also replaced the ORIGINAL serpintine belt.
I don't know what Ford was thinking when they put these money pits on the road!
But REALLY? Wheel speed sensor caused ALL that stuff to need replacing, REALLY?
<Sarcasm off>
This is probably the best vehicle I have EVER owned! BTW it is my DD construction work truck and hauls it's fair share of weight every day of it's life. With the exception of checking the oil and filling the gas tank I wouldn't hesitate to drive it
completely across the country right now.
#26
08-11-2012 | 11:24 AM
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,553
Likes: 1
From: CO
Let's see - you bought a 10+ year old work truck that was in "fair" condition, it obviously had not been maintained properly, so you are saying that all 4.2 trucks are not reliable?
Gimme a break.
I have 157k on mine, and the only UNEXPECTED failures on mine have been the clutch slave cylinder, a front wheel bearing, and plenum gaskets/isolator bolts. I think that's pretty darn reliable overall.
Spark plugs, wires, coil pack, alternator, battery, u-joints, front brakes - I consider those normal maintenance items.
Gimme a break.
I have 157k on mine, and the only UNEXPECTED failures on mine have been the clutch slave cylinder, a front wheel bearing, and plenum gaskets/isolator bolts. I think that's pretty darn reliable overall.
Spark plugs, wires, coil pack, alternator, battery, u-joints, front brakes - I consider those normal maintenance items.
#27
08-11-2012 | 11:37 AM
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,553
Likes: 1
From: CO
#29
08-18-2013 | 09:41 PM
I know somebody who got 400k out of his 4.2. He know has a 2011 with a 3.7. My only gripe with this engine is the numbers. I know it's only a V6 but come on. That 3.7 makes 300 hp. Only more 10 ft/lbs of torque however. I think you could get 50 more ponies and at least 300 ft/lbs out of our 4.2's. It may not be cheap but I'm pretty sure it is do-able. What do I know? I can't even vote yet!