Took 1997 F150 4.6 L 38,000 miles to one mech, he had the truck for 2 days . He diagnosed insuffecent EGR. Said he cleaned egr and checked all "truck is working fine" except that check engine still comes on. Suggested cleaning intake at cost of $250. I declined. Took truck to PEP Boys, that do charge $79.95 to diagnose or reset check engine light. They said that the other mechnic probably did not rest the computer correctly. "you can't reset the computer by disconnecting battery on 1997 and newer truck" so I shelled out another $80 to reset the same inssufecent EGR. Next day, light goes babk on again. Now I am being told by Pep Boys that truck will need additional 2 hours of diagnoses at $71/ hr . Pep Boys say that the only additional cost would be if the truck needs parts. As far as removing carbon from intake, that will be included in the 2 hours. They say that that they don't think that the intake is obstructed due to the low miles. This is so fustrating. I spnt $150 and I am back where I started . Any suggestions. Ray

 

Sounds like somebody is taking you for a "ride". Bullsh*t you can't reset the computer by disconnecting the battery.

The intake manifold won't be any more dirty than the inside of the throttle body.

Insufficient EGR flow will be a faulty EGR valve on the right side of the throttle body or the pipe from the exhaust manifold is blocked. Or IAC valve on right side just in front of EGR valve I guess.

It's a 1-2hr job to take the throttle body off yourself and check the egr ports. After 70k miles mine were black and sooty but not clogged or really dirty. I just looked at mine yesterday. You'll need 8mm, 10mm wrenches and sockets, slot screwdriver, some brakekleen degreasing spray, paper towels, some q-tips. I re-used my gaskets - you may want to buy new ones, up to you.

You can reset the computer all you want, if a sensor is still showing a problem, the computer will turn the dash light on.

At least insufficient EGR is no big problem. Perhaps slight change to emissions at the tailpipe but not at all damaging to your motor. If you take the EGR valve off and remove it from the pipe coming off the manifold you can try blowing compressed air down the manifold pipe to see if that's blocked. I wouldn't spray any solvents down it though as you may screw the catalytic converter.

 

to check egr blockage apply vaccum directly to valve or with a clean hose suck on it and eng will run rough or stall if ports are open. sounds like you have a bad dpfe (egr flow sensor).

 

auto zone does it free

 

I did suck on the egr with a hose and the engine quit. I tryed to check the dpfe but could not un snap the electric wires that are connected to dpfe. How do you check a dpfe? I read that you check the voltage when the engine is cold and then when its hot. Which wire do you check and how do you get that wire harness off? I undestand that the voltage should be about .5 cold and 5.5 hot. Is that correct? Thanks Ray

 

From a dealer standpoint, PepBoys half *** did the job, DPFE sensor is notorious for the insufficient egr code. Have seen dozens of these codes on all types of Ford Vehicles as of late. We have been replacing the DPFE sensor and on higher mileage vehicles cleaning the EGR ports.
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Sorry but how do you check the DPFE with a OHM meter? Ray

 

Dont go to those chain store repair places....


They are notorious for charging high prices and then paying $7/hour mechanics to drive your truck in and out of the garage to make you think they did something.

Find a good local mechanic, you know the ones that have been around for years, somebody who has thier own name on the line.

 

For $80 Ford will do a diagnosis.

 

Thats true, but sometimes you don't clear the memory in the computer, it's best to turn on the headlights after disconnecting it to fully drain any power. I found this out the hard way. I have a Sub woofer Capacitor on my truck and when you disconnected the battery the computer would use power from the cap to keep memory. Figured that out after I spent 80 bucks to clear it.

 

For $49 here.

 

Auto Zone will pull the codes & reset it for free! Even if you don't buy anything.

 

and it will still come back on

 

Yup it will, but it won't cost $79.95

If it's free, take two!

 

I went to my local Ford garage for a diaginostic computer read, they zapped me for over $150- and told me they had no idea what casued my check engine lamp to come on. My error codes showed both banks too lean, but they did not know why. I won't be going back, I'll save my $$ and do it myself.
Through my own research and this site, I found the solution. Buy my own code scanner and clean the MAF. The MAF was very dirty, I cleaned it with a Q-tip and brake cleaner, no more pinging, not sluggish, and no more check engine light for about 4k miles now.
Good luck.