Flex-A-Lite 270 Kit Installed...
#91
05-19-2003 | 07:22 PM
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From: Nor-Cal,USA
To install it, you need to apply ground to the terminal. Use a regular non illuminated switch, adn hook one side to ground, the other to the VSC terminal ( 6 I think, it is noted above ) for the manual run ( also noted in the directions ).
He can use an illuminated switch for that application that is what the FAL switch #31148 is. I mounted mine on the dash panel that goes around the steering colum the FAL switch is pretty small which made it nice i was able to mount it flush just above my switch for my lights which I am now trying to find a flush mount switch for that is small like the FAL switch.
Richard
He can use an illuminated switch for that application that is what the FAL switch #31148 is. I mounted mine on the dash panel that goes around the steering colum the FAL switch is pretty small which made it nice i was able to mount it flush just above my switch for my lights which I am now trying to find a flush mount switch for that is small like the FAL switch.
Richard
Last edited by Richard D; 05-19-2003 at 07:29 PM.
#92
05-20-2003 | 01:55 AM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Richard D,
If you want to same look and feel for the switches, why not just get another FAL switch and switch the ground side of the relay coil ?
Don't know if you want them to match or not, but that is an easy one.
Use you same fused power source, to get one side of the coil energized, and switch the ground side. Still works the relay coil the same.
Just remember that if you work on that relay, the coil is hot on one side.
Both switches match 100% then.
If you want to same look and feel for the switches, why not just get another FAL switch and switch the ground side of the relay coil ?
Don't know if you want them to match or not, but that is an easy one.
Use you same fused power source, to get one side of the coil energized, and switch the ground side. Still works the relay coil the same.
Just remember that if you work on that relay, the coil is hot on one side.
Both switches match 100% then.
#93
05-20-2003 | 02:19 AM
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#94
05-20-2003 | 11:32 AM
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From: Nor-Cal,USA
I actaully want a differant color illuminated switch for th Lights the FAL switch is a green light and I wanted a red or blue for my lights currently it is also green but instead of fitting flush like the FAL switch does it is raised off the steering colum panel. I juts havent been able to find one that is samll enough to fit where i want it.
Thans for the suggestion though.
Richard
WHILE YOUR HERE CHECK OUT MY GALLERY i HAVE ADDED SOME NEW PICTURES:
https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=2479
Thans for the suggestion though.
Richard
WHILE YOUR HERE CHECK OUT MY GALLERY i HAVE ADDED SOME NEW PICTURES:
https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=2479
#96
05-20-2003 | 08:46 PM
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Richard-
Thanks for posting that picture! That looks like a great place to mount the switch. I'll let you know how it all goes. Even though I will be ordering the fans soon, I will be installing on the 8th of July (vacation week
). Thatnks again for following through with that picture.
-Matt
Thanks for posting that picture! That looks like a great place to mount the switch. I'll let you know how it all goes. Even though I will be ordering the fans soon, I will be installing on the 8th of July (vacation week
). Thatnks again for following through with that picture.-Matt
#97
08-18-2003 | 12:29 AM
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From: Near Syracuse NY
Welp...just got done installing 3 rocker switches into my cover that surounds my column just like Richard D. Guess what....they're LED! AAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!! I just finished reading all the posts. Now I have to hope I can find Illuminated switches that will fit the same holes I cut out. Oh well... just my luck as usuall.
#98
08-18-2003 | 11:22 AM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
88blkgtstang,
What are the 3 switches for ?
If they are the 100% run, and system off for the FAL-270 kit, then you are going to have a problem with the LED light.
If they are for something else, then like driving lights they will work fine.
The lower switch in the picture looks like the switch that I got at AutoZone, for my 100% run switch. I think it is a 1/2" hole, maybe ?? Mine is the Pilot PL-SW21R switch, wired backwards as I noted above.
Were the holes round or square that you cut in ?
If they are round, AutoZone, and PepBoys ( mabye other places that I have not looked at ) should have a switch that mounts in the same hole diameter.
Another place that you can check is a West Marine shop ( local it is the BoatsUSA shop here in Chicago ). They have tons of switches usually water proof, that mount in different methods.
If nothing else the Steering Column surround panel is ~ 55.00 new. The one that I got to replace mine ( moved my gaugue from the right hand side ) in Dark Graphite is p/n F65Z-1504459-AAH. That is the dark graphite one, which is used in the med graphite interior. Replacement is the last option you have. Check the mounting hole size, even if it is square, usually the mounts are standard openings, and you can usually find another one in regular incadesent to replace the one you have.
Good luck
What are the 3 switches for ?
If they are the 100% run, and system off for the FAL-270 kit, then you are going to have a problem with the LED light.
If they are for something else, then like driving lights they will work fine.
The lower switch in the picture looks like the switch that I got at AutoZone, for my 100% run switch. I think it is a 1/2" hole, maybe ?? Mine is the Pilot PL-SW21R switch, wired backwards as I noted above.
Were the holes round or square that you cut in ?
If they are round, AutoZone, and PepBoys ( mabye other places that I have not looked at ) should have a switch that mounts in the same hole diameter.
Another place that you can check is a West Marine shop ( local it is the BoatsUSA shop here in Chicago ). They have tons of switches usually water proof, that mount in different methods.
If nothing else the Steering Column surround panel is ~ 55.00 new. The one that I got to replace mine ( moved my gaugue from the right hand side ) in Dark Graphite is p/n F65Z-1504459-AAH. That is the dark graphite one, which is used in the med graphite interior. Replacement is the last option you have. Check the mounting hole size, even if it is square, usually the mounts are standard openings, and you can usually find another one in regular incadesent to replace the one you have.
Good luck
#99
08-18-2003 | 11:44 AM
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From: Near Syracuse NY
I got the switches for manual on, manual off, and a set of PIAA lights that I had previously operated by splicing into my stock fog lights. I went back to the store today and picked up 3 non LED switches like the square green switch in the picture. The holes I cut are square. On the plus side, the panel I cut up is replaceable and I am well known at the parts counter at my local dealership. 
I was looking at the new switch and the pins are wired differently from the FAL switch. The top and bottom pin depending on your view point/prefference are power and ground, while the middle pin is indicated as ACC ON. So I can already tell it's not wired the same as the FAL switch. How am I doing so far? Also, I noticed none of my power distribution box fueses are off when not in run/start. I am planing on using fuse taps on the fuse pannel inside the truck and I purchased a small 3 position fuse block as you had mentioned protecting circuts so they don't blow out the OEM fuses.
I was looking at the new switch and the pins are wired differently from the FAL switch. The top and bottom pin depending on your view point/prefference are power and ground, while the middle pin is indicated as ACC ON. So I can already tell it's not wired the same as the FAL switch. How am I doing so far? Also, I noticed none of my power distribution box fueses are off when not in run/start. I am planing on using fuse taps on the fuse pannel inside the truck and I purchased a small 3 position fuse block as you had mentioned protecting circuts so they don't blow out the OEM fuses.
#100
08-18-2003 | 06:13 PM
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Looks like you are all set with the new switches.
The fuses, you can use a sinle fuse for all 3 switches if you'd like to do so, and save the other 2 positions for later.
The switches for the FAL, the power if for illumination only, and the ones for the driving lamps, are to illuminate the switch and for running the coil on the relay. All of these are less then 1 amp together, and could share a 1 amp fuse.
From the markings that you are describing, the power and the ACC on are the in and out of the switch. Ground is the other side of the indicator lamp, using ACC On as one side.
So when you want to switch ground to the VSC, the ground connection on power is switched to the ACC On pin, and with power on the pin marked ground, the indicator lamp lights.
This is exactly what I did with my Pilot PL-SW21R switch.
Sounds like you are all set to go with what you got, let me know if you have any other questions.
Good Luck
The fuses, you can use a sinle fuse for all 3 switches if you'd like to do so, and save the other 2 positions for later.
The switches for the FAL, the power if for illumination only, and the ones for the driving lamps, are to illuminate the switch and for running the coil on the relay. All of these are less then 1 amp together, and could share a 1 amp fuse.
From the markings that you are describing, the power and the ACC on are the in and out of the switch. Ground is the other side of the indicator lamp, using ACC On as one side.
So when you want to switch ground to the VSC, the ground connection on power is switched to the ACC On pin, and with power on the pin marked ground, the indicator lamp lights.
This is exactly what I did with my Pilot PL-SW21R switch.
Sounds like you are all set to go with what you got, let me know if you have any other questions.
Good Luck
#101
08-19-2003 | 12:04 AM
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Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Near Syracuse NY
Well the good news is, the ignition ON portion is complete. The bad news is I have to replace that plastic shroud. I cut one hole too many and there is something behind one of the planned switch locations in the way. Oh well. It took me forever to get what I got done. I'll have to do a write up. I tinned all my wire ends for the connections, added heat shrink and sodered my wire to wire connections. And I wrapped all the visible wire in that plastic dress up crap. Looks good to me! Now I'll have to see if it at least works in the morning. Thanks to SSCULLY and all that have posted thus far on this subject. It's made this a lot easier.
Thanks to SSCULLY and all that have posted thus far on this subject. It's made this a lot easier.
#102
08-30-2003 | 09:20 PM
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Posts: 172
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From: Near Syracuse NY
The fan has been running strong off ignition control for 2 weeks now. For the AC, I tapped into the black/green wire off the compressor and the fans both come on full blast when I turn on AC. I got my replacement steering wheel shroud and started cutting that up again...although more carefully this time. I made a mock up of it out of poster board and made sure the switches would fit. I put together one of the switches just to test. I was able to use the illuminated switch I got at Advanced Auto by doing as Sscully stated and wire the switch backwards with power on the ground pin, and ground on the power pin. So far so good. Thanks again board!
