Cruise control is dead......

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Old 03-01-2003 | 05:15 PM
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Unhappy Cruise control is dead......

After 89,000 mostly trouble free miles, the little problems are beginning to start. I recently drove home from Lansing, MI and the cruise worked flawlessly all the way here. A few weeks later I had to take a trip that involved using it. Nothing, I can't tell if it's not turning on at all, or maybe something mechanical has given up. I followed the cable down to what looks like a motor and gear box on the left front inner fender. It has a twist and clip mount where the cable attaches. I undid the clip, and worked it around a little, and the cruise worked for a day or so. Is this a servo for the cruise control? Could this be all I need? Help me out, I have absolutely NO idea how the cruise works on this truck,,,,98
 
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Old 03-01-2003 | 05:20 PM
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Maybe the cable is binding, and I freed it up when worked it around?? The first time I tried the cruise after doing that, the truck kind of sputtered and lunged when the cruise was turned on??,,,,98
 
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Old 03-01-2003 | 05:36 PM
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Screamer, if your brake fluid is low at the master cylinder the switch (brake fliud low warning sw.) could cancel the CC. Also check your fuses. Most of the time its the basics that are the cause. Good luck. Also most later model year vehicles have Cruise Control Diagnostics that are obtainable with a scan tool. Pay the check out charge and replace it yourself.
 
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Old 03-01-2003 | 05:42 PM
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Question

Just checked the brake fluid, and it's about 1/4 to 1/2" below the MAX line. That wouldn't be low enough to cause this, would it??,,,,98
 
  #5  
Old 03-01-2003 | 05:44 PM
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Cruise control was out on Windstar.
I think it was a brake actuator? It was 'brake' something.
 
  #6  
Old 03-01-2003 | 05:49 PM
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98,

After you have checked all your fuses and cables.

Try a Speed Control Self-Test Diagnostics.


Self-Test Diagnostics

WARNING:
This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test only that is conducted in park only with emergency brake fully engaged.

1. Enter Self-Test Diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. FIVE ADDITIONAL FLASHES AT THIS POINT INDICATE A DEFECTIVE SPEED CONTROL SERVO. Release the OFF switch.

2. Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.

IF THE "ON" SWITCH IS NOT DEPRESSED WITHIN FIVE SECONDS AFTER ENTERING THE DIAGNOSTICS MODE, THE MODULE TIMES OUT AND THE PROCEDURE MUST BE STARTED OVER.

The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.

3. A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the STATIC test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.

If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:

— 2 Flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).

— 3 Flashes - Deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.

4. Immediately after the STATIC test, the speed control servo does a DYNAMIC test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the DYNAMIC throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the THROTTLE RETURNS BACK TO IDLE POSITION.

5. Return ignition switch to the OFF position.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier
 
  #7  
Old 03-02-2003 | 09:29 AM
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Is your airbag light flashing code 32. It was when my cruise quit working along with my horn. The problem I had was that my Clockspring was broken. IT controls cruise and your horn. Had to remove the steering wheel to replace it but no problems since.
 
  #8  
Old 03-02-2003 | 11:35 AM
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Exclamation

Hmmm, the horn still works fine, so I guess that's not it? It's not too critical right now since I'm home, but once I go back on the road? I drive 500 to 700 miles per day sometimes. NO way I could do that with my foot workiing the pedal ,,,,98
 
  #9  
Old 03-02-2003 | 11:46 AM
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Unhappy

And another problem is that I have a custom made set of gauges, and I believe there isn't a cruise indicator on it??,,,,98
 
  #10  
Old 03-02-2003 | 12:22 PM
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From: kinston nc
Its a bad servo if you manually moved it and it worked for a short time again. Thats what mostly goes bad on those.

By the way, the brake fluid level has NOTHING to do with the cruise working. That switch on the master cylinder passes power to the servo under normal conditions, and breaks the power under extreme brake line pressure. It will cancel the cruise in case your brake lamp input fails to cancel it.
 
  #11  
Old 03-02-2003 | 01:11 PM
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Wink

Hmmm, sounds reasonable to me? Next question is how much does one of those run pricewise? I'm betting it falls somwhere in the $50 to $200 range, right?
 
  #12  
Old 03-02-2003 | 06:19 PM
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cant remember, but its high, over 200 i think.
 
  #13  
Old 03-02-2003 | 06:43 PM
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Thumbs down

DAYUM!! I think I'll be hitting the boneyard for one of those!,,,,98
 
  #14  
Old 03-02-2003 | 07:25 PM
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From: Columbus, Ohio
98 -

From Fordpartsonline.com

Electrical, Cruise Control System, Servo List Price $177.70 Your Price $143.94

Found this under 1998 - Ford - F-150 - collision - Electrical - Cruise Control system

Enjoy,
Steve
 
  #15  
Old 03-02-2003 | 07:28 PM
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Talking

Now that isn't a bad price, still high, but better than $200+. Thanks man!,,,,98
 


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