Just have to vent here a bit, hoping that there are others out there who have been here before.
Just did my first self service on my 5.4. Did my normal rutine, pulled the drain plug, cracked the oil lid on the valve cover and let her drain. After the plug started to slow down I figured I would go ahead nad pull the filter off. Well the placement ofcourse is crappy to begin with, but is workable. GOt is loosened up and pulled it off with ease. Then the fun part started. I could not for the life of me get that filter past my tierod!!! I tried it every which way and just coudl not get it out. Then I stoped to think of another way, hopped up and turned the stering wheel to the left hard and it moved it just enough to get the filter out. But this is after the fact of spliling half a filter full of used oil all over the garage floor.
Just wnated to give you all a heads up to turn the steringwheel hard left before starting your oil change, and save yourself an extra 30 min of clean up!
Here is the service dealers face for frustrated customers who have tried ths before

 

Personally, I'd like to meet the engineer that designed that filter location on the block in an enclosed soundproof room for a little 'discussion' on the topic. I know turning the wheels is the recommended solution, but I felt so strongly that oil changes shouldn't involve contortions (and/or busted knuckles) that I chose to go the following route.



No issues getting to the filter, removing it, preloading a new filter, or reinstalling the new filter. In addition, I can run a larger filter, which between it and the additional oil lines, yields almost an additional quart of volume in the system. I highly recommend a setup similar to this if you enjoy doing your own oil changes.

Take care.

-Mike-

 

Glad that I am not the only one out there. Yes I am definatly perfer to change my own oil, so how was that, relocating all of that???
Glad to see someone else with some rust down there, not sure what the part is, but no matter how I try to keep it all fresh and clean that one just likes to turn on me-

 

Designing and installing the setup I have wasn't too bad. I got some tips from another member of this site (Galaxy) who had done a similar setup on his 4x4. Definitely makes changing my oil a piece of cake.

As to the 'rusty piece', that's the steering box, and you're right, there's about nothing you can do to keep that sucker from rusting. Oh well, at least nobody can see it (unless I post more pics that is).

-Mike-

 

 

Every Ford I've ever owned had something that irritated me during routine maintance. Most dump oil on the crossmember. Several have had exhaust that run directly under parts that leak oil (boy burnning oil smells great). I don't have much trouble changing my 4.6 F-150's filter, but I get PO'd wiping all the oil off my crossmember. My dad had a 93 Taurus SHO and it dumps oil onto the starter with every oil change. It also always seems the oil fillers are are always in a position that can't be hit cleanly without the aid of a funnel On lots of Ford's the radiator neck is the same way. On the + side having a torque converter drain plug is nice. I've also had some Fords that the oil pan rusted through on. It seems more common on Fords. I love my current truck, but some things Ford does just don't make sense to me.

 

Damn! you guys are killing me! I am just about to move from my apartment into a new house with a super 25X25 foot garage and was really looking forward to doing my own oil changes from now on. I guess I am glad I read this post! So how do the guys at the 'quickie lube' do it? They have never asked me to turn my wheel and I have never really heard anyone struggling under my truck? In fact, I can't ever even recall any noise at all when they take it off. Maybe I should get under my truck to be sure my filter doens't say 'Ford' on it! I hope they really are changing it! Yes it's sad I have owned my truck for over an year and I have never been under it I suppose that is the return I get from a $500 a month payment, right?

 

I don't know anything about the 4x2's but you do not have to turn the wheels on the 4x4. There are two different ways to get the filter out on a 4x4.

If you have the 4x4 there should be no mess on the garage floor because there is a plastic sheild/runway over the front diff that channels the oil that pours out when you remove the filter. just put your oil pan under the front diff.

Get yourself a fumoto drain plug and an end cap filter socket/wrench and about five paper towels and you too can change your oil in less than 10 minutes with no mess!! (4x4 only)

The power steering box in out trucks is rusted on purpose!! It is a form of anti rust treatment! I swear! They (Ford) pre-rust certain parts so that they rust no further.

Some examples: Drive shaft, Exhaust manifolds, PS boxes, etc. This is not just Fords.

 

MikeF150..... what part number did you use for the remote/bypass setup you have? What additional modifications did you have to do (fittings,adapters,etc) to install it? Thanks.

 

Just an FYI, the stock driveshaft in my truck is aluminum so no rust there (thank God!).

-Mike-

 

HCMQ is right about the pre-rust thing to stop further rust. I can't say about car parts but I do know that some street posts along the hi-way are built the same way. They rust to a point then the layer of rust prevents further rusting. Strange but true. My dad is a chemical engineer and pointed these posts out to me as a kid so I know the principal exists. I didn't know they did this to car parts but it's good to know so I won't fret when I see the rust on mine.

 

Glad to hear I am not the only one to learn the hard way to turn the wheel to the left!

 

 

Thanks!

 

i really like the k&n oil filter it has a hex head on the bottom,helps alot,i couldn't get my oil filter socket on the motorcraft filter they put on one time when my sister took it on a trip and she had the oil changed,and the dealership here tends to over tighten,had my tires rotated while it was in the shop for its first oil change and when i took em off the next time i broke 2 sockets tryin to get one lugnut off,i put a torque wrench on it to see what they tightened it to and it was pegged out at 160 and it was tighter than that,needless to say it hasn't been to anybody else's shop since