code 1401
#17
05-19-2004 | 09:43 PM
Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
I bought a Wells DPFE today for $54 + tax @ AutoZone. Cleared the code and the Check Engine light stays out so far.
The old DPFE was nearly clogged with corrosion at the tube ports. I shook out some water as well. I tested the old DPFE sensor on the bench. The terminals are Sig-Gnd-Ref from top to bottom. Hook a a 6V battery from Gnd to Ref with jumper cables. Hook your voltmeter from Gnd to Sig. Apply about 10 in. Hg vacuum at small port marked Ref on front of DPFE sensor. The voltage should climb to near applied voltage and then drop to near zero when vacuum is released. My old DPFE read 2.8V with vacuum and and 1.8V with vacuum released. Definitely a trashed unit.
I think this is a Break-A-Matic part, due to the corrosive nature of the case. I went ahead with a similar unit from AutoZone, but if you have the extra cash I would go with the new plastic unit that Ford replaced it with. It might not necessarily be better, however. Ford might just be building it cheaper to make replacement less expensive. There is definitely a potentiometer inside, and a change in case material will not affect it's reliability much if it isn't redesigned as well. If you have the metal sensor and have anywhere near 100K on your F150, I would change this part out as preventive maintenance. I looked up the Taurus main trouble areas, and the DPFE was mentioned on it as well. Pinging on acceleration and hard pulls was the first indication of sensor failure long before the P0401 error code showed up.
Don't forget to check for clogged sensor tubes when you have the old DPFE off. There can be corrosion on the metal exhaust gas tube as well, causing sluggish operation.
The old DPFE was nearly clogged with corrosion at the tube ports. I shook out some water as well. I tested the old DPFE sensor on the bench. The terminals are Sig-Gnd-Ref from top to bottom. Hook a a 6V battery from Gnd to Ref with jumper cables. Hook your voltmeter from Gnd to Sig. Apply about 10 in. Hg vacuum at small port marked Ref on front of DPFE sensor. The voltage should climb to near applied voltage and then drop to near zero when vacuum is released. My old DPFE read 2.8V with vacuum and and 1.8V with vacuum released. Definitely a trashed unit.
I think this is a Break-A-Matic part, due to the corrosive nature of the case. I went ahead with a similar unit from AutoZone, but if you have the extra cash I would go with the new plastic unit that Ford replaced it with. It might not necessarily be better, however. Ford might just be building it cheaper to make replacement less expensive. There is definitely a potentiometer inside, and a change in case material will not affect it's reliability much if it isn't redesigned as well. If you have the metal sensor and have anywhere near 100K on your F150, I would change this part out as preventive maintenance. I looked up the Taurus main trouble areas, and the DPFE was mentioned on it as well. Pinging on acceleration and hard pulls was the first indication of sensor failure long before the P0401 error code showed up.
Don't forget to check for clogged sensor tubes when you have the old DPFE off. There can be corrosion on the metal exhaust gas tube as well, causing sluggish operation.
#18
05-25-2004 | 10:02 AM
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
CODE 1401
i had this problem on a 2001 402.dealer item only.there are 2 of them,one is long oval looking.one is maybe 1inchsquare with two hose attachments on the bottom and wire clip on side.the small one is 65 bucks and the big one is 85 bucks.took me 5 minutes to change,in the dark with a flashlight.the shop wanted to charge 165 bucks to do it
#19
05-26-2004 | 07:53 PM
Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Test Procedures
hcmq
I agree with you on testing. Today I found the answer. I went to the local public library and found the following information. Mitchell Repair Information Company publishes
extensive repair manuals. They tell you what to test, how to test, what the results mean and what to do next. I believe these manuals are probably as detailed as the shop manuals used by dealers. The only drawback, You can’t check them out. Hope this helps everybody.
I agree with you on testing. Today I found the answer. I went to the local public library and found the following information. Mitchell Repair Information Company publishes
extensive repair manuals. They tell you what to test, how to test, what the results mean and what to do next. I believe these manuals are probably as detailed as the shop manuals used by dealers. The only drawback, You can’t check them out. Hope this helps everybody.