No Start Issue : My cure
#16
10-27-2014 | 12:37 AM
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
It's me again but I had to re-register. Wanted anyone that ends up here later to see what I hope is the answer to the problem I was having. I removed the kick panels on both sides and the trim from front to back that covers the edge of the carpet (like thresholds)... not sure what they call them. Water was a half inch deep all over the wires that run down in those channels. Shop Vac'd, aired out with fans. Within an hour the clicking under the dash stopped (sounded like a relay) and now everything is restored to normal operating condition. Possible the water shorted something out but did not do any permanent damage. That was a week ago anyway. All is well, except I need to check sunroof drains, windshield, etc to find out how that much water got into my truck and hid from me.
#17
11-03-2014 | 04:55 PM
Senior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 145
Likes: 1
It's me again but I had to re-register. Wanted anyone that ends up here later to see what I hope is the answer to the problem I was having. I removed the kick panels on both sides and the trim from front to back that covers the edge of the carpet (like thresholds)... not sure what they call them. Water was a half inch deep all over the wires that run down in those channels. Shop Vac'd, aired out with fans. Within an hour the clicking under the dash stopped (sounded like a relay) and now everything is restored to normal operating condition. Possible the water shorted something out but did not do any permanent damage. That was a week ago anyway. All is well, except I need to check sunroof drains, windshield, etc to find out how that much water got into my truck and hid from me.
#18
11-14-2014 | 05:15 PM
Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 15
Likes: 1
Believe it or not it was the number 33 fuse. Had the person check it out and tell me all fuses were good so I double checked and the fuse that goes to the coils 15 amp was blown. Ugh! What a nightmare and such a simple fix. It is running ruff like on one cylinder isnt firing. Ive got to wait till my neighbor gets home to read the codes to tell which one is the problem. I am going to change all the plugs and COP's next month. I hope this will fix everything. Also bought a fuel filter just to because its got 175000 miles.
#19
12-10-2014 | 01:38 PM
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Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
after inspecting the wires and connectors and switching the relay out with the horn and making sure the check engine light is working... a easy test for a fuel pump before your pull the bed off is to jump the relay, although you will never see it in writing...
as it is always bad mojo if you send 13.7 volts on a signal wire by mistake of course to something say like the airbag, especially while your wife sits in the drivers seat waiting to turn the key for you.
as it is always bad mojo if you send 13.7 volts on a signal wire by mistake of course to something say like the airbag, especially while your wife sits in the drivers seat waiting to turn the key for you.
#20
01-08-2015 | 01:28 PM
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Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
2012 no start
2012 f 150
One click but no turn over engine. Narrowed down to the key switch. Jiggle gear, swap gear, move tilt wheel, key in out or in and turn etc no help but push ignition switch in before insert key worked.
Did the mechanics at ford garage leave the switch loose when in there a few months ago to fix similar electronic failure as they did two other items (failed to tighten) or just factory failure since that switch has always had a little play.
Ford electronics don't seem to do well in the cold. Tire low acting up again too.
One click but no turn over engine. Narrowed down to the key switch. Jiggle gear, swap gear, move tilt wheel, key in out or in and turn etc no help but push ignition switch in before insert key worked.
Did the mechanics at ford garage leave the switch loose when in there a few months ago to fix similar electronic failure as they did two other items (failed to tighten) or just factory failure since that switch has always had a little play.
Ford electronics don't seem to do well in the cold. Tire low acting up again too.
I had a crank - no start issue yesterday with my 2001 5.4L.
In the past I had a few "hard starts" not thinking much of it, as it only happened every once in a great while, and I wrote it off to having the SpeedPass too close to the key.
I went through a few posts, got several ideas ( I'll list below ). When none of these provided a cure, I called the friend of the family Mechanic about getting it towed in to be fixed.
Prior to this he suggested by passing the relay for the Fuel pump, to see if it was dead.
I was expecting it to be quite as all can be, but when I pulled relay 301 in the battery junction box ( under the hood ) and jumpered pin 30 to pin 87 ( Ford relay p/n FOAB-14B192-AA ) the fuel pump started to hum.
I pulled the relay from 302 ( trailer battery charging ckt, if I recall correctly ) put it in place of the relay 301 ( fuel pump ), turn the key on, and started right up.
The only reason I make a new post of this, is I started down the wrong road, forgetting the most obivious cure might be the correct one. Dumb me, but maybe this will save someone else from wasting the time I did.
The problem
After the truck sat for about 6 hours ( after driving for 45 min no problem ) went to start it, and did was a crank no start.
Tried my key with the speed pass removed from the ring ( don't recall if I had this too close or not PATS ), no change.
Paid attention to the Theift light, and it was going out as it should on startup.
The steps in getting to the easy answer. ( aka the long PITA road to the solution ).
1. Changed fuel filter : Hadn't done this, and was meaning for some time about 50K miles on it.
2. Checked the fuse in position 10 in the battery junction box ( fuel pump fuse ) Checked good.
At this point I should have pulled the relay and bench tested it, but I skipped past this, for some dumb reason
3. Removed IAC and cleaned it ( had never done this, but it was on the list ). 8mm 1/4" drive socket and ratchet. Can be done without yanking the TB.
Tried to start the truck at this point, still no change, and not paying attention to not hearing the fuel pump run
4. Clear PCM, just on a SWAG that the PCM did not like my last drive ( got me, it was a normal run, nothing strange happened ).
Tried to start the truck at this point, still no change, and again not paying attention to not hearing the fuel pump run
5. Called friend and asked him about tow and repair this week.
5.1. He said to yank the relay, by pass it, and if I did not hear the fuel pump run, hit the gas tank with a rubber mallet to see if the fuel pump was going south.
Sure enough, the fuel pump ran, and all was good.
Just a little FYI for those who might have a crank no start issue.
Off to Ford to get a relay to replace the one for the reversing circuit ( and maybe a spare ? ).
In the past I had a few "hard starts" not thinking much of it, as it only happened every once in a great while, and I wrote it off to having the SpeedPass too close to the key.
I went through a few posts, got several ideas ( I'll list below ). When none of these provided a cure, I called the friend of the family Mechanic about getting it towed in to be fixed.
Prior to this he suggested by passing the relay for the Fuel pump, to see if it was dead.
I was expecting it to be quite as all can be, but when I pulled relay 301 in the battery junction box ( under the hood ) and jumpered pin 30 to pin 87 ( Ford relay p/n FOAB-14B192-AA ) the fuel pump started to hum.
I pulled the relay from 302 ( trailer battery charging ckt, if I recall correctly ) put it in place of the relay 301 ( fuel pump ), turn the key on, and started right up.
The only reason I make a new post of this, is I started down the wrong road, forgetting the most obivious cure might be the correct one. Dumb me, but maybe this will save someone else from wasting the time I did.
The problem
After the truck sat for about 6 hours ( after driving for 45 min no problem ) went to start it, and did was a crank no start.
Tried my key with the speed pass removed from the ring ( don't recall if I had this too close or not PATS ), no change.
Paid attention to the Theift light, and it was going out as it should on startup.
The steps in getting to the easy answer. ( aka the long PITA road to the solution ).
1. Changed fuel filter : Hadn't done this, and was meaning for some time about 50K miles on it.
2. Checked the fuse in position 10 in the battery junction box ( fuel pump fuse ) Checked good.
At this point I should have pulled the relay and bench tested it, but I skipped past this, for some dumb reason
3. Removed IAC and cleaned it ( had never done this, but it was on the list ). 8mm 1/4" drive socket and ratchet. Can be done without yanking the TB.
Tried to start the truck at this point, still no change, and not paying attention to not hearing the fuel pump run
4. Clear PCM, just on a SWAG that the PCM did not like my last drive ( got me, it was a normal run, nothing strange happened ).
Tried to start the truck at this point, still no change, and again not paying attention to not hearing the fuel pump run
5. Called friend and asked him about tow and repair this week.
5.1. He said to yank the relay, by pass it, and if I did not hear the fuel pump run, hit the gas tank with a rubber mallet to see if the fuel pump was going south.
Sure enough, the fuel pump ran, and all was good.
Just a little FYI for those who might have a crank no start issue.
Off to Ford to get a relay to replace the one for the reversing circuit ( and maybe a spare ? ).
#21
01-08-2015 | 02:22 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 5,522
Likes: 4
From: Utah
2012 f 150
One click but no turn over engine. Narrowed down to the key switch. Jiggle gear, swap gear, move tilt wheel, key in out or in and turn etc no help but push ignition switch in before insert key worked.
Did the mechanics at ford garage leave the switch loose when in there a few months ago to fix similar electronic failure as they did two other items (failed to tighten) or just factory failure since that switch has always had a little play.
Ford electronics don't seem to do well in the cold. Tire low acting up again too.
One click but no turn over engine. Narrowed down to the key switch. Jiggle gear, swap gear, move tilt wheel, key in out or in and turn etc no help but push ignition switch in before insert key worked.
Did the mechanics at ford garage leave the switch loose when in there a few months ago to fix similar electronic failure as they did two other items (failed to tighten) or just factory failure since that switch has always had a little play.
Ford electronics don't seem to do well in the cold. Tire low acting up again too.
#22
01-08-2015 | 09:06 PM
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Crank and no start AFTER replacing bad fuel pump
2002 F150 5.4 would not start after sitting for about a month in some VERY cold weather (-15). It would crank, but not fire. Suspected frozen fuel line, and noted no fuel pump whine when key was turned to run position. I thawed everything out and got it to fire momentary with starting fluid, and after I warmed the fuel rails with a heat gun. Disconnected the fuel pump harness and put 12 volts to the pump and nothing. YEAY, I now know it's the pump, although i wonder how it died so suddenly. Replaced the pump, and let it prime a few times by turning key to run position, and it started right up! Backed out, hooked up my trailer and pulled it up to check tire pressure, shut off truck, and IT's DEAD AGAIN!. Yes I can hear pump come on, but won't fire even with starting fluid, NO SPARK! Checked all fuses, swapped relay, HELP! This one has me by the short hairs...
#24
01-13-2015 | 03:49 PM
Senior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 145
Likes: 1
Both of you should start your own thread. A new problem posted into an old thread is too easy to get overlooked. Just my 2 cents but having a code reader is necessary if you have any car newer than 95. I was just looking at wireless or bluetooth ones you can buy on ebay for around $5 that work with the smart phone app torque. FYI the app comes in a lite version for free or a Pro for $4.95.
Here's a link to the device on slickdeals:
http://slickdeals.net/f/7576544-mini...e-deal-is-back
Here's a link to the device on slickdeals:
http://slickdeals.net/f/7576544-mini...e-deal-is-back
#26
04-06-2016 | 11:46 AM
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Crank no start
I have the same problem on my 98 F150.The fuel pump seems to be ok,I can hear it run.I was told it could be the EEC relay next to the fuel pump relay.I took the relay from the horn,which I knew was ok and swapped the over.The horn was working but the truck would still not start.I'm at the end of my ideas now.Do you have any suggestions.?