Hi all. Pretty new here... searched but did not find... so I have 3 questions:

My # 4 & #8 exhaust manifold studs all broke off. Got the pass side done. The driver's side is tougher because of the EGR tube (hardline) that is attached. After much cursing, I got 7 of 8 studs out (w/ EGR still attached); I can't get the broken lower rear out w/out removing the whole manifold.

The EGR fitting is too rusted to remove; it started to crumble when I tried. The dealer wants $75 for it. Don't have $ for it, plus I'm afraid I'll also need a "non-crispy" $225 manifold when I break its fitting getting the tube out. None available at boneyards that were checked locally.

1) Anybody have a good drvr manifold and/or EGR tube they'd part with?? Please? Any other suggestions?

I don't really have the $ for either option now, but may go with the headers from Summit (link) cuz they're cheaper.

2) Anyone that has these headers: what does, "Includes header extension. Fabrication may be required," mean? Talking about the EGR tube or the exhaust? Also is the EGR tube maybe just standard tube & fittings (NPT or some such)? Can't tell w/ so much rust on mine.

3) Can you get the two exhaust studs & gasket(s) that go between the manifold and downpipe anywhere cheaper than the dealer's $77 grand total? These are rusted to about 1/8" thickness remaining (and some of that's prb just rust!).


Please help. Thanks! -Ed

'98 F250 (Std. duty 4x4, 5.4L "L" motor)

 

Wish I had an answer for you my man but I don't.
My buddy just put headers on his 97 for the same reason. The egr tube nut thingy was completely gone! A new tube is $75 from Ford and the nut was $35.

I have my own gripes about hte EGR tube WRT valve covers.

 

I've got a nut for you if you want it.

 

Thanks for the responses. My parts guy said the nut was included w/ tube, but based on past experience, I'll believe you guys first.

Anyone have pix of a (less rusty) EGR nut/manifold interface? I'd like to try to salvage my manifold, but can't tell where the nut begins and manifold ends.

If the part you have is in decent shape, please email me pghfj40@yahoo.com

Any comments on the manifold-to-exhaust studs/gasket? Do I just have to buck up @ Ford?

Thanks again. -Ed

 

Yeah, I've got a couple words on your exhaust manifold stud issue. It bites. If you need them and can't find them at parts stores be prepared to spend about $6.90 a piece on them for genuine Ford parts. That's here in Alaska though. Look around at the parts stores first! I got the guy to come down to $5.72 on those, but thats it. The nuts were $1.18, down from original $1.77. And the nuts that go on the manifold to y-pipe studs were $2.86, down from $4.29.

The studs were coated with something, copper looking.

The nuts felt like self-locking, not coated with anything special.

Used anti-sieze on both sides of the studs.

Bought the gaskets from Car Quest for $10 and change.

I used an abrasive pad on a air grinder to clean up the mating surface, then simple green on cloth to pick up the dust.

I can get pictures of my egr tube when i get home. The ends are flared and hold the nut on the tube. Mine is cut because the guys at the junkyard hacked the motor out of the donor truck. I'd imagine you could cut it back a bit, put a new nut on it, and flare it again. There's not much room for error though, that tube is pretty much the length it needs to be.

 

Undo the EGR nut at the throttle body that should allow you to pull the driver side manifold off the studs and lift it high enough to get at the broken stud. A liberal amount of liwuid wrench or any king of penetrating oil will go a long way to getting things undone. FYI WD40 is not a pennetrating oil and as such doesn't work as well.


JMC

 

get some pb blaster or kroil and hit the EGR tube at the top where it connects. Watch out its pretty tough to get a wrench on the nut. Mine was stuck on so hard i had to remove my EGR valve but then you need a new gasket to put it back on.

 

Thanks again for the responses.

THinking... (which always gets me in trouble) if the hose is flared, wouldn't the nut have to be included? How do you get it on there if not?

I had already been hitting the upper EGR tube fitting w/ PB Blaster; can't get it to budge. But I'd been trying a crescent wrench which doesn't have any clearance so far. I will get a proper wrench and commit to the process (i.e., let it know I MEAN IT).

New thought: I'm betting I could cut the tube then solder/braze a coupler in there. I'll think more about this.

Defective: thanks for the pic offer. That'd be helpful (if I abandon the above idea).

I still haven't found anywhere that offers the donut gaskets to the Y-pipe. That's not what you got for $10 is it? They're $65 outrageous dollars from the dealer.

 

No, those arent the gaskets I bought. I got the ones that go between the block and the manifold, those are the studs/nuts I was talking about above too, so disregard that stuff. I just called all my parts stores here and nobody has those donut gaskets. I didn't even notice there were gaskets in there when I took it apart. It kind of looked like a metal to metal connection.

 

hmm when i replaced my EGR tube it looked like there was a nut that screwed into the manifold and then a nut on the EGR tube that threaded into that. Almost looked like there was a piece in between the tube and the manifold but i'm not sure if you can just screw that into the manifold. So if your trying to get wiggle room i would say take off the EGR valve its only 4 bolts and get some room that way

 

At the EGR valve there is a threaded nipple that the nut screws onto. At the manifold there is indeed a "reducer/adapter" that screws into the manifold and the EGR tube nut screws onto that. At the EGR valve I usually slip a wrench on the nut and then tap the other end of the wrench with a hammer. This usually starts the nut turning. At the manifold end you can always use a torch to heat up the nut but at the valve end I would not recommend using one.

JMC

 

The upper EGR coupler came off easy off once I had the right 1.25" wrench. This gave just enough wiggle room to get in there at the broken stud--didn't have to touch that crispy lower fitting, or the y-pipe connection.

Vicegrips alone wouldn't get it turning, so I built up the stud w/ weld to get a little more purchase on it and out it came. Replaced the gasket, bolted it back up, & called it a day.

Best of all, I got away w/ $10 (for a gasket) instead of $400 in parts, and prob as much in labor!

Thanks to all who helped!