is the EGR really not needed

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  #16  
Old 02-25-2007 | 10:48 PM
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Wow, this is such an informed thead.
 
  #17  
Old 02-25-2007 | 11:02 PM
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Cool

HI!... Thankyou.
 
  #18  
Old 02-25-2007 | 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Bluegrass
Wow, this is such an informed thead.
Bg - Don't hold back - you know you want to pounce on this one.
 
  #19  
Old 02-25-2007 | 11:24 PM
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LOLOLOL

I was thinking the same thing hahaa..
 
  #20  
Old 02-25-2007 | 11:53 PM
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Well, ok. One shot.
The starter of this thread lives in la-la land with the alligators by the way he discribes what he has done and wants to do.

The reply about inlet air is cooler than the exhaust is clasic and shows no understanding of why the EGR comes on the engine to begin with and what the program does to ignition timing and fuel tables when it is called to operate.

Tuneing to shut the EGR off when this guy won't even maintain the truck stock and is concerned more about ripping things apart and making noise and can tell by osmosis what the faults are and don't need no stinkin light or any codes read. I don't think so.
It's called, are you a redneck when...............! Fill in the blanks.

Once the EGR code is set, the PCM ignors it because it doesn't work anyways.
Hell, just take the lamp out and to hell with the rest as long as it make lots of noise.
Makes sense to me.
If he lived anywhere else that had laws, he would not get away with any of it or wear out a lot of shoes walking.
 
  #21  
Old 02-26-2007 | 12:08 AM
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That's more like it lol .. I've been wanting to get rid of EGR system - only for reasons that it gets in the way and I dislike working around it all the time.

But if it's a plus keeping it.... Environmentally it's a must by law I imagine but not totally sure. So I still use it and haven't found a good enough reason to get rid of it yet.

I here you can eliminate it, but there isn't much more talk about it other than just that..

Well, until this thread came about lol..
 
  #22  
Old 02-26-2007 | 12:46 AM
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Here it is Jim, just for you.
The use of an EGR system is determined by the mfger when the final engine design is done because the engine must meet federal EPA limits and any state limits for NOX emmissions and must be keep tightly tested by the PCM OBDII.
Such tighness is within about 3% of the permissable limits and must be indicated clearly by codes and supporting warning to the owner/driver.
Aside from this, the EGR is not needed for an engine to run at any level of performance.
The EGR however does result in improved fuel milage as a result is it's incorporation into the system.
How this is accomplished is the exhaust gas the gets feed back to combuston, delutes the air/fuel mix and resuts in a cooling of combustion temperature by products.
This is helped along be a reduction in fuel use that the cylinder canot use at that time due to the delutuion. Also the a/f ratio is now quite lean and needs some ignition timeing added (advanced) so the cylinder pressures peaks at the same relitive point after top center. Reason is the flame speed is greatly slowed as a result of the dilutuion.
With the reduction in fuel and the ignition advanced, this normmally results in an increase in fuel mileage.
The advaned ignition normally does not result in pinging because the flame speed is slowed not speeded up.
An EGR leak any other time without the resultant fuel and ignition action will cause problems.
The EGR, while electro mechanical, has to be accompanied by PCM program action to have the right results for combustion and drivability.
The PCM is like any other computer, it runs on lines of program. Within the program is the ability to program differnt operating values or none at all.
Some engines do not need EGR to make the EPA guidelines. As far back as 88, the Bronco II does not use EGR on a 2.9 v6 but the same engine in a Ranger did use it.
Ford is attempting to meet the guidelines with the engines that use cam phase changing to accomplish the same thing for combustion cooling by adjusting the cylinder pressures with camshaft timing changes while the engne is running and reaponding to load and rpm changes.
Put the check in the mail.
 
  #23  
Old 02-26-2007 | 01:21 AM
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Thanx , If I'm understanding this right , burning premium fuel like I use do once in awhile in an effort to clean things up a bit (injectors mainly) may upset the way the EGR works with timing /combustion set up for 87 octane. Premium burns slower..

I've heard running premium fuels are bad for a motor unless it's tuned to make running higher octane's beneficial..

Thanx for the info..

On another note , can you recall the O-ring sizes off hand that you used on the the Spark plug boots. I purchased a kit , but not sure if I have the right sizes..None of them really fit that well..

Thanx again.
 
  #24  
Old 02-26-2007 | 01:40 AM
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The ring size for the plug is #110.
For the boot top is #10 a thin larger diameter.
Go to Sears hardware. They carry all the sizes.

Using 89 or some higher octane gas changes the flame propagation time (slows it down some).
This causes the cylinder pressure to peak later because the ignition timing has not been adjusted to take advantage of the flame speed.
In turn the PCM keeps track of relitive cylinder rotatiing time as it can detect these changes in cylinder pressure indirectly and begins to change it's tables over time like an engine that is wearing from ring and valve seal degradation.
It's much the same routine as ignition missfire monitoring that detects gross cylinder slow downs from missfiring and sets 3xx codes.
The best way to take advantage of higher octane fuel is to do a program change in timeing to reflect this. The results is usually more torque when the timing better matches the fuel.
 
  #25  
Old 02-26-2007 | 01:48 AM
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Yeah , I don't have a tune to run premium . I though that it might be screwing it up bit , that's why I quit running it ..

Thanx for the ring # - theres a Sears hardware close by ..
 
  #26  
Old 03-04-2007 | 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by ONELOWF
Bg - Don't hold back - you know you want to pounce on this one.

I have felt that pounce and it isn't a soft one. The man knows his stuff though!
 
  #27  
Old 03-05-2007 | 09:05 AM
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Egr Needed

Hi,
I tried removing my egr, got a code within about one day. I believe its the computers learn time, just like having a code and a shop tells you they can turn it off, that lasts about a day. When I realized that was no good. I tried then to hook up a tube going into my air box( pre airflow meter). Doing that I got NO code and it ran OK, but soon after it began to ping under load. I hooked it all back up to the exhaust, performance was slightly better and no more ping. So much for that idea.
In the past I have had other Fords which had an egr, later models of the same car it was eliminated. I'm refering to a Tbird SC. I can only believe, and I think I heard people talking about it a while back, that you can remove it, BUT then reprogram the computer somehow??
I was trying to remove it due to a blower project. I dont like the dirty exhaust running thru a pos displacement blower. I've seen what it does in the long run.
 
  #28  
Old 03-05-2007 | 02:26 PM
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The old EEC system was almost ON-OFF operation with a sensor (EVP) to tell the EEC the EGR did operate. It could be blocked and have no effect on the EEC because that block could not be detected.

In these new systems with the DPFE, the design is such that you can't get around it in any way except for turning it off in program.
Be awhere that ignition timing is changeD and fuel cut back when the EGR routine is called.
Fooling with the hardware leaves the software in place and that causes problems as you found out.

If the engine is in good shape, the small amount of feed back gas won't be a problem.

I run a Kenne Bell on a 5L with everthing hooked up and unaltered. No problems for the last 4 years.

Depending on what setup you are going with, the EGR usually is called under very low loads when there is about no boost pressure at cruise.
It would be very hard for exhaust gasses to flow into the intake manifold if there was boost pressure that far excceds the exhaust flow pressure.
Remember that the exhaust pressure forces gas flow thur the tube as well as the intake vacuum trying to draw it, both at the same time.
Hook it up and leave everything as it's supposed to be or you just get into hassle from it and not enjoy the overall use you intended to get.
Said another way, you don't have the capability to alter it in a 'satifactory' manner.
 

Last edited by Bluegrass; 03-05-2007 at 02:30 PM.



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