This kind of shocked me a little...When I bought my truck in 2006 the dealer threw in the first oil change at 3 - 5k...So I took it in at about 4K and they used 5W-30 Quaker State premium on the ticket..

I was like huh??? I said I thought you guys were using 5w-20 now...Dealer said...Well not us just yet...Said won't hurt it a bit...it is a good quality oil..

I didn't think it would hurt anyways...So when it came up on 8K I put in 5W-20...and the engine was somewhat louder...on start-ups etc...More so than the Quaker that they put in...

So this last change I used 5W-30....and she is quiet again...Noticeably

So bottom line is use what ever your comfortable with...like Chester said...It all works...Just use what you like, but I would use a quality oil...Just keep em changed at regular intervals you should be fine...

If your in warranty like me...I have receipts for a case of 5W-20...They would have to dig pretty far to find what I used anyways...I don't see that happening...

 

Thanks for the quick replies. I'll stay with 5w-30 since it isn't hurting the engine.

 

I agree with Norm I want to see them reports.

 

I shouldn't go saying it's been scientifically proven when I can't find where I saw it at. You'll just have to take my word that I have seen it.

I'll one up ya, can YOU find reports that prove x-30 gives more wear than a x-20?

 

Use what you want to use but I think the BIG point that's missed here is Ford recommends 5w20 on the newer engines and if you use something other than that AND you have an internal engines failure you are NOT under warranty. This is assuming they find out you were not using the recommended lubrication.
FYI, Ford specs of 5W20 (WSS-M2C930-A) and 5W30 (WSS-M2C929-A) are different. And the specs between the two grades are slightly different also:

Vis @ 100°C (cSt): (5W20) 8.38 ~ (5W30) 10.33
Vis @ 40°C (cSt): (5W20) 45.78 ~ (5W30) 57.89
Viscosity Index: (5W20) 161 ~ (5W30) 169
Spec Gravity @ 60°F: (5W20) 0.8621 ~ (5W30) 0.8575
Density (lbs/gal): (5W20) 7.19 ~ (5W30) 7.14
Total Base No.: (5W20) 8 ~ (5W30) 8
Flash COC (°C): (5W20) 220 ~ (5W30) 221
Pour Point (°C) max: (5W20) -36 ~ (5W30) -36
CCS cP (°C): (5W20) 4400(-30C) ~ (5W30) 4800(-30C)
MRV TP-1 cP (°C): (5W20) 16,000(-35C) ~ (5W30) 16,000(-35C)
Noack % off @ 250°C: (5W20) 13 ~ (5W30) 13.5

AGAIN, do what you want, it's your vehicle. But you can void your warranty (on newer vehicles) and there is a difference between grades (as little as it may be)

 

How about we learn a little about oils viscosity and the ratings. Lets look at the chart provided by Angus242. Take a look at the first line of the chart. We see that the Vis@100C is X.XX. So what does that mean? On the SAE chart, there is a range where that number fits. For a 20 viscosity fluid at 100C, it would have a viscosity range of 5.60 to 9.29. For a 30 viscosity fluid the range would be 9.30 to 12.49. So an oil that is rated at 30 at temp can be a 9.30 to a 12.49 viscosity fluid and be called a 30 viscosity. Not all 30 rated oils are the same "thickness". The Energy Conserving oils will be on the thin side of the Xw-30 meaning they are thinner than an oil that is not EC. Most high mileage oils are on the thick end of the range. So lets compare the 5w-30 and 5w-20. The 5w-20 is on the thick end of the 20 viscosity range so there is a viscosity difference of slightly less than 2. Your engine most likely won't know the difference. But the specs call for a 5w-20 in a Triton engine. The question is, will it hurt it to run a 5w-30. Not if the oil used is an EC rated oil as it is only slightly "thicker" than the 5w-20 at temp. The allowable deposits are the same as is the viscosity range stabilty and oxidation rate. You won't hurt the engine using a 5w-30 providing it is an Energy Conserving oil.

For those in question about running a 5w-30 versus a 10w-30. Ford specs a 5w because it will get to the cam quicker providing faster lubrication. Using a 10w oil will accelerate wear especially in the winter months. The use of Viscosity Index Improvers is not as widely used as it once was and those used today are fairly stable. The difference as you can see in the chart is that the 5w-30 has a higher Viscosity Index which provides for the oil to make the viscosity range without much use of VIIs. Which ever oil you use, make it a 5w-XX and Energy Conserving. Your engine, your wallet, and the environment will love you for it.
Hope this was useful info.

 

This is not Rocket Science Here! Use what the engineers who designed the Motor Recommend or you will be cutting down on the engines life & reliability, heck it's your $$$ & your truck, do as you wish........

 

To be safe, use oil that meets specs. Check your manual, it either requires 929 or 930 spec oil. 930 spec is 5W20, period. 929 spec is usually 5W30.

 

They aren't telling you to use 5w20. It's just a matter of how old your truck is. The older ones DO call for 5w30 and the newer ones call for 5w20.

 

You people are trying to SPLIT hairs for which you have no basis to do as consumers.You are not engineers or anything close to it but keep HANGING on to old handed down views.
Since the 929 and 930 spec is being brought up; how many of you know that just about a year ago 5w20 was a 929 oil and now it it a 930, oil depending on when it was bottled and when you got it..
Stop tying to split hairs and use the 5w20 as reccomended. Ford never tells you the change weight anythime in the duration of owership.
Go to the Motor Craft website and print out the oils spec chart for all the Ford vehichle back to 97 and stop guessing what to use for old or new engines.
You do know that the timing chains {4.6/5.4/v10 types} have their slack and tension take up and adjusted by oil pressure driven take up mechanisims! Think! If you raise the oil pressure through the use of higher visosity oils or additives, the tensioner pushes harder on the chain, the guide that it slides in, and pushes harder on the gear drive supports, front main bearing. Can you say extra WEAR and losses, as just as one example.
Bottom line, for those of you who still want to feel you know better, be our guest and use whatever your unfounded position requires to self satify.
You have been given, by some professionals good enought to reply here, enough data, and examples to take the best position on the use of lubes.
What seems to be getting lost is these current designs are not at all like the old push rod engines of the past and do require a differnt basis and tigher use of oils that should not be based on old ways and thoughts. The engine designs now include the fluids as a total in that design, that was not so important in the past designs.
Look ahead and not keep looking behind.

 

I'm not trying to split hairs - I'm simply suggesting that it's ALWAYS safe using oil that meets the published specs for your engine. My manual says use 930 spec oil, so that's what I use. Will other oils work? I'm sure they do, but I feel there has to be a good reason for the specs. Heck - I've used drain oil in beaters and it works. I have what I feel to be a nice truck so I want to treat it the best I can. I'm using full synthetic 930 spec oil - currently Valvoline Synpower but the next change will be Mobil 1. Why not the stock semi-synthetic Motorcraft? Because I prefer a full synthetic, that's just me.

 

This 01 SuperCrew w/5.4L I've been working on has it right on the cap -