I think 99+ do, but yah mines got 4 pin harness on it. Just called one of my other buddies that said hes got one that will work, but it needs the bolts.

Would I need grade 8 bolts?

 

Patman, get a good hitch like Draw-tite or Reese or.... but a good class 3 at least. I just got a class 4 Draw-tite for around 200 bucks canadian. Are you pulling a car trailer or dolly? In any case, get a frame hitch. If it's a trailer, figure about 14-16 inches to the bottom of the trailer coupler and see how many inches to the top of the inside of the reciever on you're truck. Looks like a ball mount with about 4 inches drop turned upside down is what you'll need. Other than that, you'll be fine. I just towed my car home, a 4k lbs car on about a 2k lbs trailer, at least, no problem. I had a weight distribution hitch that was too high (borrowed with trailer) so it squatted my truck a bit too much. Still, it pulled absolutely great, all the best man, and beware, when u-haul ask what you're pulling, say a miata or something small. Do a bit of a search on this and you'll see.

 

I'd try the dealer... My hitch used these special nuts on the bolts where you only needed one wrench. Kinda hard to explain... If they can't do it for you, you'll want the biggest and strongest bolts you can fit in there.

 

Well, I thought I had something interesting to say, but then I re-read your original post and realized you clearly stated you had only the ball on your bumper for a hitch... Sorry for the wasted space.

For what it's worth, I think buying a frame mounted hitch would be a worth while investment.

Mike

 

yah thats the plan, a 93 civic hatch 2dr

I think i might end up borrowing the one that Fasterf150 has at his parents house. If i cant get a hold of the guy that lives in my complex with a CIII hitch already on his truck.

and Zaair i know what you're talking about, the top of the bolt has a large square head on it that hits the side of the frame, or they have the ones like that are on the shackles, with a bracket that comes over the side of the hitch that wont rotate...

Not likely, since i drive a lowered truck, i pull a trailer once a year at the most. Ive only pulled one trailer, this will be second, and a third when we move at the end of the month.
-Patrick

 

If I were you with your truck, I would pull the drive line and use a car dolly. A lot more easy to pull, plus you LBS will be a lot lower. You could use your bumper too.

 

LBS?

Im still trying to get a hold of a C3 hitch, if not we will be getting a car dolly and pulling the driveshaft out. I think i would prefer to have a full trailer tho, would definetly be safer since the dolly wouldnt have its own brakes.

 

LBS, Pounds.

 

hah sorry, long day

Im like load body ????

 

The reason I say use a dolly is you said you’ve pulled a trailer one time before. Plus the dolly I would say is only half the "LBS" of the car trailer. And that would put you at 4500lbs. Three weeks ago I pulled this car almost 600 miles at 75mph couldn’t even tell it was back there. Just had to use a little more peddle to stop.

 

Your friend with the car doesn't have any other friends with trucks?

 

hes actually my roomate, and no. I dont mind doing it, but i told him im not paying for anything

 

Some (like my 2001) only had 7 - pin wiring and you needed to use an adapter (which was provided in the tow kit with the relays etc.).

If anyone has the part number for the later year bracket with both the 7 and 4 pin connector I would appreciate it. I would like to upgrade mine.

 

True... What I forgot to mention was that all of the F-150s come prewired with at least 4 pin wiring. My F-150 had the 7 pin. And Norm, I don't know the part number, but I do know that the wiring harness from the dealer is about $140. And that doesn't include the lube.
ETA: That $140 is after my discount from my parts guy.

 

Damn! $140 is a bit high, I guess I will keep using the adapter. Thanks.