Truck Won't Crank, Please Help I've tried everything!
#17
A few other things you can try are checking the cables on the starter to make sure they are clean and tight, and making sure the starter is mounted tightly, even giving it a few taps with a hammer to make sure nothing is binding.
Also, if your truck has the solenoid mounted on the fender, try taking a screwdriver or pliers and touching the 2 bolts (positive & negative) together where the cables mount on from the battery/starter. Do this with your key turned to the "on" position. There will be a few sparks but it won't hurt anything, it may help you narrow the problem. This is sometimes called a "bypass." If things are working, the engine will try and turn over just like turning the key forward when starting it. I have done this on my '89 F150 that has the 302 V8 when it has had problems starting.
Also, if your truck has the solenoid mounted on the fender, try taking a screwdriver or pliers and touching the 2 bolts (positive & negative) together where the cables mount on from the battery/starter. Do this with your key turned to the "on" position. There will be a few sparks but it won't hurt anything, it may help you narrow the problem. This is sometimes called a "bypass." If things are working, the engine will try and turn over just like turning the key forward when starting it. I have done this on my '89 F150 that has the 302 V8 when it has had problems starting.
#19
I know you have tried jumpstarting and connecting another battery to the battery in the truck. But remove the battery and hook up a known good one to the cables with out going through the battery in the truck. I had this problem. Jump start, you name but nothing worked and the radio would work. I finally removed the battery stuck a new one in and it started. Sometimes a battery will short itself out and have enough power for the radio etc. but will not activate the starter. If this fails to work then check your fuses. Good luck
#20
Originally Posted by DYNOTECH
I know you have tried jumpstarting and connecting another battery to the battery in the truck. But remove the battery and hook up a known good one to the cables with out going through the battery in the truck. I had this problem. Jump start, you name but nothing worked and the radio would work. I finally removed the battery stuck a new one in and it started. Sometimes a battery will short itself out and have enough power for the radio etc. but will not activate the starter. If this fails to work then check your fuses. Good luck
#21
I agree with turning the key on and jumping the starter solenoid, that will tell you immediately whether the wiring to the starter is good or bad it will also tell you whether the starter is bad....also if you have a meter or a light bulb with a wire attached, check and see if you have 12 volts at the starter relay, if not then a fuseable the battery cable is bad. If you do have 12 volts then probably a fuseable link is open....
#22
Might be a good time to take a few steps back and think a bit.
Here is how the start system works.
Battery power direct to the start solenoid.
When you put the key into start, the switch closes battery thu to the start solenoid control 'winding'.
This closes heavey contacts to cut battery power thru to the starter.
It's that simple.
Grounding is just as important as the battery side, because the hi current has to return back to the neg side of the battery. Check those cable too.
When the start function is entered, you should hear the solenoid click up.
IF NOT, that is your first proven fault.
The ignition switch, it's wiring, the solenoid have a problem.
Voltmeters do a nice job of testing these out.
Here is how the start system works.
Battery power direct to the start solenoid.
When you put the key into start, the switch closes battery thu to the start solenoid control 'winding'.
This closes heavey contacts to cut battery power thru to the starter.
It's that simple.
Grounding is just as important as the battery side, because the hi current has to return back to the neg side of the battery. Check those cable too.
When the start function is entered, you should hear the solenoid click up.
IF NOT, that is your first proven fault.
The ignition switch, it's wiring, the solenoid have a problem.
Voltmeters do a nice job of testing these out.
#26
#27
Theres a big ground on the frame rail as well. I had a No Crank No Start issue in the past and it turned out to be the MEGA 175 amp fuse on the firewall.
That prolly doesn't help since you have an 05..
I have a couple TSB's on this issue - if yours is a 2005 , there not for you..
That prolly doesn't help since you have an 05..
I have a couple TSB's on this issue - if yours is a 2005 , there not for you..
Last edited by jbrew; 08-22-2007 at 12:08 AM.
#28
Make a run to Autozone or whatever you have near by and buy a test light. Turn on the key and start checking for power at the soleniod. If no power is present trace the cable till you find a good source. While you are buying the test light buy a battery or bring yours with and have it tested . This battery thing has bit me in the *** more than once, jumping doesn't cut it .
Have you tried the bypass yet?
Have you tried the bypass yet?
Last edited by Shane1; 08-22-2007 at 12:29 AM.
#30
Originally Posted by jbrew
Theres a big ground on the frame rail as well. I had a No Crank No Start issue in the past and it turned out to be the MEGA 175 amp fuse on the firewall.
That prolly doesn't help since you have an 05..
I have a couple TSB's on this issue - if yours is a 2005 , there not for you..
That prolly doesn't help since you have an 05..
I have a couple TSB's on this issue - if yours is a 2005 , there not for you..
'05 I dont know were you got that, It is a 91. And The Ignition Switch has been replaced. And did your radio and stuff not work as well with the MEGA 175 problem?