I just recently completed repairing a 2002 ford F-150 that had a service engine soon light with the data stream reporting a stuck open IMRC, (Intake Manifold Runner Controler). Ford wants top dollar to repair this code. I may be able to help you save close to $700.00, if you have mechanical abilities.

 

And the procedure is............???

 

I am taking it there will be a fee for this info which is why the procedure is not listed. Post count of 1, go figure.

 

If that's the case, that's a clear forum rules violation...........

 

Post reported. Post your procedure or suck eggs.

 

you must like sucking eggs...

 

ive got a shinny Canadian penny! that i found in a urinal ill give u for it. il have to check see if its still at that corner store later.

 

This is a quasi family oriented site, no need to violate the TOS.

 

Most of us can show people how to do it and we won't charge anything. The advice given here is free. So here is some free advice.........
JMC

 

Mine was stuck closed but it was under warranty

 

Mine was stuck closed and it, too was covered under warranty

 

PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE ARTICLE BEFORE STARTING YOUR REPAIR, TO SEE IF IT IS TOO DIFFICULT FOR YOUR SKILL LEVEL!!! Sorry for the delay! Electrical storm for the past few days and didn't want to loose another puter. I read someone on this forum said it was a violation to give this information? I don't think that is true or is it? OK and Oh well. (Note, According to the Ford Parts Department, IMRC's on the 2002 4.2L are basically bullet proof. What breaks are the 4 each $10.50 locking clips, because they get what goodyear tires says is ECD (Electrical Chemical Degridation). In short the plastic gets brittle and the actuators cannot control the butterfly plates between the intake manifold and the head(s). When I discuss in the article what left and right side are, they are the actual side as the vehicle is in motion, i.e left side is drivers and right side is passengers.

----------------------------Part 1 of 2--------------------------------

Note, Read and understand disclaimer at the bottom of this message!!!

(Torque specs are 53in/lbs first torque sequence and 89in/lbs on both the Plenum and Spacer)

Step One:
(IMRC's are located on the back of the plenum and can not be seen at all) Disconnect the negative battery terminal and remove the intake inlet to the throttle body.

Second: Drain about 1 gal of anti-freeze from the radiator and close it off, (because a coolant line runs through the throttle body).

Third: Remove the IAC on top center of the Plenum and put aside
Fourth: Remove approx three large vacuum lines to the plenum or spacer. (Note the Spacer is just under the top cover plenum but is not the intake maniford. The intake maniford is the metal or alum obj connected to the heads. It is very important to understand this because of part discription).

Fourth: Remove throttle and cruse control linkages located on the Plenum. Be careful not to crip or bent them too much!

Fifth: there is a rather difficult heat shield that needs to come off between the fire wall and the engine. I tore the top right corner of mine but didn't alter it's purpose, you'll see when you get to this step. It must go back on to keep cabin temp. low.

Sixth: Small connector and valve with vacuum lines on right side of plenum must be disconnected. (Note: I may have missed small step between here and there but if you are a skill technician you'll see what I'm talking about).

Seventh: Now the dangerous step comes in to play now because you do not want to get butterfingers and drop anything down into the intake runners or you will be removing the engine and having a great weekend doing so. I reccomend stuffing papertowels into the runners so if you do get a hole in one it will stop on top so you can remove it. Remove Plenum, it is about 10 to 12 bolts and do not loose there location. What holes they come out they must go back. Just a precaution with my experience with ford.
Clean the gasket and surface of this part very well because you are going to reuse the gasket material if you want to save money($18).


LOOK FOR SECOND POST BECAUSE THE MESSAGE WAS TOO LONG..

 

---------------------PART 2 of 2-----------------------

Eighth: Now the second dangerous step comes because now you must remove the spacer (About 8 bolts hold the spacer on, and like I said previously, all must go back into the same holes). This is what your papertowels are stuffed in. When you remove the spacer the intake manifold is exposed and you can drop objects on top of the cylinders (Combustion Chambers). So now, Stuff the intake manifold with papertowels or place a large towel over it to catch any debris from falling into the bores.

(Clean all mate-ing surfaces and remove the gaskets (6 @ $11.00 each)and take them in and clean them with dishwashing liquid being very delecate. Now clean where the gasket was at on both side of the spacer and the intake manifold. Cotton swabs work wonders in the gasket trophs.)

Description of what your looking for: Now the IMRC ($150.00) is located behind the intake manifold, between both cylinder heads and the firewall. This unit can be seen with the naked eye, But the linkages are a bit more disguised. Now it's all your call on how much you want to spend because like me I analized (or antillicially thinked with my gord) and looked for the obvious and the $10.00 clips that hold the actuator rods were broken so I just bet and went to Ford (Only place that I know of that you can purchase these itema and bought 4 ea.

Nineth: You will recognize that the $10 clip are very small and if you drop one it will be gone!!!! So I devised a cheap solution so solve the run-away clip issue. You will need to locate the butterfly flap controller arm and linkage and install the clips first before installing the linkage arms (one is about 3 inches long and the other is about 5 inches long, give or take an inch or so). If you look at the $10 clip, in the middle, there is a hole run a string through it, now run that very same string through the link on the butter-fly flap arms on each cylinder head in the back. (The snap clips will press in very easy @ the IMRC unit, but be (VERY)patient with the clips on the cylinder head itself. You will have to turn the snap clip to square it to the square hole, if you are paying attention when you put the snap clips in the IMRC unit you will see what you have to do and how you have to do it with the link on the butterfly-flap arms. This will take you the most time but be sure and use the string method to install the clips, it will keep sane while your concentrating on the task at hand!!! You should be out only about $40 to $60 vs $850.

Tenth: Go in reverse. It was harder typing this crap than it was to do it!

DISCLAIMER: If you F--- it up, it's your F--- up! This is only an article and my point of view not doctorine. You must be a compataint mechanic or technicial to attempt this task. I am not responsible for any mis-interpritations, spelling, grammar, or so in so. In other words if Ford does not do this repair, you are ultimatly responsible. Hope this has helped somebody.

 

Not exactly - it would be a violation to SELL this information through the forums.

Thank you for posting the procedure. If you had made this part of your first post you would not have gotten the blasts from all of us.

 

I have a 2003 with 4.2 V6. Plastic clips for connecting rod from electronic to irmc valve deteriorated. Ford wants $600 so going to try to do this myself. YouTube has videos of this for this engine. Question is, do I only need plenum gasket or also the lower set to get to the valve in the back of engine? Looks like I won't need to take intake manifold completely down to block but it's hard to tell. By reaching from underneath I can feel the connecting rod and where it's supposed to go, but can't keep it in place without taking intake off. Thoughts?