Plug wants to blow??
#1
Plug wants to blow??
I've read the bulk of the spark plug blowout threads and now maybe I'm paranoid.
I recently replaced plugs and COPs on my 99 5.4L and it's been running freakin' great! The removed parts were a mix of Motorcraft and Autolite plugs with random gaps ranging from .050-.065 and mostly Motorcraft COPs with couple no-namers in there too.
I used Motorcraft plugs and Global COPs and followed the warnings, tips and instructions found throughout the numerous Ford Truck forums. It's been running like a champ for a couple weeks but recently I noticed a "weird" noise. I've not heard it before, but that could be because it hasn't been running well at all till now.
It's a very faint, RPM related noise. I can't call it a tick cuz it doesn't seem metallic. The best word I can think of is "airy". I've read that this can be a harbinger of sparkplug blowout, among other things too. I plan on ensuring it's not an exhaust leak this weekend.
If I can't narrow it down to anything else, how do I determine which plug might be contemplating a sub-orbital launch?
Sorry so verbose, and thanks in advance.
Cheerz!
I recently replaced plugs and COPs on my 99 5.4L and it's been running freakin' great! The removed parts were a mix of Motorcraft and Autolite plugs with random gaps ranging from .050-.065 and mostly Motorcraft COPs with couple no-namers in there too.
I used Motorcraft plugs and Global COPs and followed the warnings, tips and instructions found throughout the numerous Ford Truck forums. It's been running like a champ for a couple weeks but recently I noticed a "weird" noise. I've not heard it before, but that could be because it hasn't been running well at all till now.
It's a very faint, RPM related noise. I can't call it a tick cuz it doesn't seem metallic. The best word I can think of is "airy". I've read that this can be a harbinger of sparkplug blowout, among other things too. I plan on ensuring it's not an exhaust leak this weekend.
If I can't narrow it down to anything else, how do I determine which plug might be contemplating a sub-orbital launch?
Sorry so verbose, and thanks in advance.
Cheerz!
#2
#4
Thanks guys.
After a quick trip to the parking lot I've got some new thoughts. Going back to the nature of the sound, I'd call it a click, instead of a tick. It's coming from the driver's side near the back (Cylinder 7/8 neighborhood). How about an injector? Is there a cam-chain tensioner in there somewhere? It's very clearly audible in the wheel well and a bit less-so up top.
I think I'll get up early tomorrow and de-antiseize the plugs. I missed that little nugget until after I'd finished the job. Crap, so close, yet so far.
Thanks again!
O/T JBrew: Did you get my email re: engine drawings?
After a quick trip to the parking lot I've got some new thoughts. Going back to the nature of the sound, I'd call it a click, instead of a tick. It's coming from the driver's side near the back (Cylinder 7/8 neighborhood). How about an injector? Is there a cam-chain tensioner in there somewhere? It's very clearly audible in the wheel well and a bit less-so up top.
I think I'll get up early tomorrow and de-antiseize the plugs. I missed that little nugget until after I'd finished the job. Crap, so close, yet so far.
Thanks again!
O/T JBrew: Did you get my email re: engine drawings?
#5
#6
Originally Posted by jbrew
Yea, 3&4 would loosen up on me. I removed all anti-seize from plugs -re-torqued to 16' lbs and they haven't loosened up since.
Not including anti-seize on the plugs on the 97-03 model years was advised by a Ford Motor tech that frequents this site.
Not including anti-seize on the plugs on the 97-03 model years was advised by a Ford Motor tech that frequents this site.
btw - you are a wealth of info. Finally got the O2 sensors changed out last night and since others were complaining about changing these out (especially the passenger side), I took a bunch of photos and will try to get a how-to posted in the next week or two. It took awhile to get the right socket shipped up here to Alaska.
#7
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#8
#9
Originally Posted by SupahG33K
Can't PM here cuz I haven't posted enough (min 100 posts). I was wondering if you had drawings similar to the ones you posted in the "Ditching Factory Remote Oil System" thread but for engines that aren't so equipped from the factory.
Sorry to hijack my own thread.
Sorry to hijack my own thread.
Item Part Number Description
1 N806007 Dowel (4 Req'd)
2 N806040 Dowel (2 Req'd)
3 N806435 Plug (2 Req'd)
4 18B402 Heater Water Tube Assy
5 N806459 Dowel (4 Req'd)
6 6750 Oil Level Dipstick
7 N806155 Bolt
8 6K873 Oil Level Indicator Tube
9 391186 Plug (2 Req'd)
10 N808713 Bolt
11 6714 Oil Bypass Filter
12 6A642 Oil Cooler (NGV Only)
13 9278 Oil Pressure Sensor
14 N806156 Bolt (4 Req'd)
15 N620482 Nut
16 6881 Oil Filter Adapter
17 6840 Oil Filter Adapter Gasket
18 W704787 Stud
19 6100 Piston/Connecting Rod Assy
20 6214 Connecting Rod Bolt
21 6211 Connecting Rod Bearing
22 6140 Piston Pin Retainer
23 6135 Piston Pin
24 6161 Oil Ring Expander
25 6152 Piston Compression Ring
26 6150 Piston Compression Ring
27 6159 Piston Oil Ring
28 6108 Piston
29 6200 Connecting Rod
30 87836 Plug (6 Req'd)
31 N806007 Dowel (4 Req'd)
32 N807198 Dowel (2 Req'd)
33 N806168 Bolt (8 Req'd)
34 6375 Flywheel
35 6310 Crankshaft Oil Slinger
36 6701 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal
37 N806155 Bolt (6 Req'd)
38 6K301 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal and Retainer
39 391186 Plug
40 6334 Crankshaft Thrust Washer—, Upper
41 6303 Crankshaft
42 6K302 Crankshaft Thrust Washer, Lower
43 6333 Crankshaft Main Bearing
44 6A346 Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap Dowel
45 6345 Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap Stud
46 N806180 Spacer, Oil Screen and Tube
47 6622 Oil Pump Screen Cover and Tube
48 N605904 Bolt
49 6710 Oil Pan Gasket
50 6675 Oil Pan
51 W701605 Bolt (16 Req'd)
52 N806155 Bolt (2 Req'd)
53 6345 Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap Stud
54 6325 Main Bearing Cap
55 6600 Oil Pump
56 N806183 Bolt (3 Req'd)
57 N806201 Crankshaft Key
58 6333 Crankshaft Main Bearing—, Front
59 6333 Crankshaft Main Bearing
#10
#11
Originally Posted by jmg-in-alaska
jbrew - you say you torque them to 16 foot pounds? Is this with all of the extensions going out for each plug? I am getting ready to do plugs/cops on my '97 in a week or so and was looking around for the torque specs on these. So that is helpful. But, it seems that if you are running a very short extension on a plug up front, the actual torque at the plug will be different than say the 7 or 8 cylinder in the back where you have to run a couple of extensions, a swivel or two, etc. Just curious how you compensate for this, if at all?
btw - you are a wealth of info. Finally got the O2 sensors changed out last night and since others were complaining about changing these out (especially the passenger side), I took a bunch of photos and will try to get a how-to posted in the next week or two. It took awhile to get the right socket shipped up here to Alaska.
btw - you are a wealth of info. Finally got the O2 sensors changed out last night and since others were complaining about changing these out (especially the passenger side), I took a bunch of photos and will try to get a how-to posted in the next week or two. It took awhile to get the right socket shipped up here to Alaska.
12-16' lbs is recommended per service manual. Actually I don't usually use a torque wrench , just give them a good 1/4 -1/2 turn after I run them in with a piece of 3/8 hose - whatever feels right. I clear everything out of my way on the passenger side when working on the plugs. I even take the harness cradle (MEGA fuse holder) loose and use bungee cords to tie it back out of the way lol. - I hate that stuff in the way.... But , I know you can get away with one extension on the torque down . You could bump it up a couple pounds for MAX torque , but staying on the high side of the recommended setting should be good enough with one extension.
#12