I use Mobil 1 Full Synthetic and Mobil 1 Oil Filters, too.

 

I know switching from Fram to MC helped my 99 F150 start up quieter.

Hope you see the same results.

 

Relocate your filter so it hangs straight down (like on the Lightning) and it won't matter if the anti-drain back seal leaks or not - the filter stays full...

Helps keep it cleaner than having oil drip down the cross member and what not as well - I hated that on my '01 Screw...

As frequently as most people seem to change their oil on this forum, you could use one of those JC Whitney toilet paper canisters and it probably wouldn't matter !!!

Seriously, it's amazing how important oil and filter selection is to each person, yet I've NEVER met a person that had an oil-caused failure of their engine.

Everyone bad mouths Fram, but I bet they are one of the top sellers and I don't hear about engine failures of any type on a regular basis.

Fact of the matter is, modern engines are not nearly as picky and sensitive about the oil and filter they get as their owners seem to be....

 

I got to cut open just about every big name filter there is, The Mobil 1, Wix, and K&N were the best, the MC and AcDelco were both about the same and were equal quality to the Wix. The fram and purolator and others were unbelievable, after all that I wouldn't trust a Fram to hold my used oil, more less filter my new stuff.

 

I have taken the time to study the differences between different oil filters.
There are many very important differences. I work for a CAT dealer. We have to justify to customers, the difference in why Cat filters cost more than Baldwin or FRAM, WIX etc...

I have inspected many cut open filters, brand new unused to view the differences. Take the time to do some research and you'll know that like most things in life, you get what you pay for.

WIX and FRAM are some of the worst quality filters I have ever cut open.
Cheap paper elements, cardboard ends, thin cheap metal housing, absence of by pass valve, low quality oil seals, I could go on.

From my experience some of the best filters made are the ones made by the original manufacturer. However keep in mind that I do not know of one vehicle manufacturer that actually owns a filter company and makes their own filters.
Two of the largest filter companies are Donaldson and Fleetguard. They make filters for other companies like Motorcraft, Mopar, etc...
I solely buy Donaldson filters for all my vehicles. I get them through where I work (Cat Dealership). These are excellent quality filters and are equal or better than OEM filters. I also strongly recommend Fleetguard filters.

Start cutting open your filters, see how they are built. While you are in there, rip out a section of the accordian paper element. Wrap it in a paper towel and squeeze it as hard as you can in a vice. The paper towel will suck up all the oil. Then open up the accordian paper and look at it under a bright light. You'll see what is going on inside your engine. Chrome? Aluminum? Steel? Brass? Carbon? It will all be there in the filter paper.

Good luck.

Keith

 

MC all the way, specially at wally for the same price as fram. although i have to admit, that grippy on the fram is a neat feature with 97-03's being such a retarded location.

if i cant get MC i look for purolators.

 

Funny thing is, those who knock Fram filters always say "I read it".

I've got over a million miles on three vehicles with nothing but Fram filters. Oil, air, and fuel.

I don't believe everything I read on the internet.

Use what you want. If you feel better using a product that costs more, or less, do it. But quit knocking products that you have zero experience with.

Off to another thread. I hear the hens cacklin' again.

 

we ran fram on our 91 ranger, start up knock was awesome with those filters some days.
i use to run frams on my 4.6 until i realized motocrafts were the same price at wally

 

Agreed. I used Frams on my Ranger, but since it is in Meheeco now...

It's the lower end Frams that are worth staying away from. I believe the higher end ones are rebadged and sold as name brands that get good reviews of which the names escape me right now. Purolator or something of that sort.

Nobody brings that up, though.

 

according to one of the sites you can read about the different filters:
Honeywell 1999-2008 Fram Extra Guard, Fram Tough Guard, Fram Double Guard, Fram High Mileage, Pennzoil, Quaker State

Purolator 1999-2008 Bosch, Motorcraft, PowerFlo, ProLine, Purolator Premium Plus, Purolator Pure One, Quaker State

 

Why not install a bypass filter kit? I've got an install in the works through Amsoil that has a manifold for both a bypass and full flow filter.

I hope to extend my oil changes beyond 25k up to 100k miles. Of course, that's based of UOA from a lab every 5-8k miles. Look into it...http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...=amsoil+bypass

 

uhm k... u do that. hopefully you'll worry about the viscosity and think twice.
my problem with the amsoil kit is the price.

 

I knew someone would have a hissy the price. To each there own I guess. The last thing I need is some flaky product heading south. Head to Wal-mart to nickel and dime for their economy Motorcraft filters and smile knowing you got "a steal".

It's well documented that engine wear is caused by debris as small as 5 microns in size. Your filter (like many), at it's best, filters nothing smaller than 20 microns. A quality bypass filter is about 98% efficient at filtering down to 2 microns.

The supplies for an oil bypass filter kit won't cost you much more than $300 (retail) from Amsoil. Hook up with a wholesaler and cut that down by 20-30%. Heck, that's right in the ballpark of any of the big three mods people first do (intake, tuner, exhaust). Why balk at something that truly impacts the longevity of your vehicle?

As far as viscosity concern goes, that's what the $15 dollar UOA is for every so often. That'll tell you a lot more than cutting open any filter will or visually inspecting your oil (which has nothing to do with the amount of life left in it)...plus save all the sliced fingers along the way. Go to Blackstone Labs website to get an idea of what a UOA readout looks like.

There's been evidence that Mobil 1's "true synthetic" oil dropped to using a Group 3 base ever since the lawsuit against Castrol. Anything to save a penny! This stuff used to be as simple as going to the local auto dealer and grabbing 6 quarts of oil and a filter and being on your way.

It's time to rethink your thinking...

 

you might want to refrain from your comments. i did not have a hissy, i simply stated the price of the kit was too much for me. nothing more, nothing less.

im so sure that the marked up filters at ford that say the same name are so much better than walmart because thats where hillbillys, rednecks, low lifes like me shop for certain things? you wanna stir that pot a bit?

i also was referring to your 25k to 100k oil changes, what makes u think your gonna really get that many miles and more hours than you can try and figure realistically?

 

I agree I have ALWAYS used MOTORCRAFT filters in every ford that I've owned!!