I drain out my microns every 3K miles, so they are not even in my engine to begin with! Keep your Amscam!..........

 

No scam. Tom Brady uses it. j/k

 

Manny Ramirez also uses Amscam on his Hair too!.............

 

If you only knew what you were talking about

 

 

lol i finally went to that site, now i see where kars85 got his literature from.. another board...

 

Yep. I know how well one person crusades typically fare on forums, so it's always better to backup your persuasiveness with others' results...

 

that didnt mean i read much of it. i skimmed thru and saw some high points that matched yours. more like your copy pasting.

i still dont see how anyone can expect their oil to last 100k or a year. well maybe the year part isnt so far off, ive watched my dads 302/289s start and run fine after sitting for a year or 2.

also, these guys are talking about changing the BYPASS filter at 25k not the full flow filter, thus you were misleading on your post.

either way im tired of readin for the nite.

 

Motorcraft filters are made by Purolator. Good filter. STP filters are made by Fram. Lousy filter. Wix premium line is a good filter, that's what a Napa Gold is. Amsoil filters are made by Donaldson.

 

kars85, I read the link you posted and there are some issues. The poster claims Amsoil By-pass filters work to 1/10 micron. Wrong. They work at 3 microns like most any other brand by-pass. He also claims that a particulate at 5 microns will cause wear, not exactly correct. Any particulate at all will cause wear but what is acceptable? The folks that make the engines say that any particle larger than 40 microns will cause damage- that's different than wear. If you can get the particulates to the 10 micron range you can have long engine life. A common Purolator will filter at 10 microns, 98%, single pass. Even a Fram will filter close to that. By-pass units for gas engines has never been cost effective. The units cost too much for next to no gains and considering that the engines of today are the cleanest ever, there isn't hardly much for the primary filter to do let alone a by-pass. But in Amsoils defense, they make a good by-pass unit and their oil, with the exception of the XL7500 line, is built for extended oil changes. They load the basestock with lots of ZDDP which is why it will never see API certification. API certified oils are required for engine warranty. I highly doubt that your oil will go the 100,000 miles. If you are getting a full analysis you are paying around $25.00 every 5000 miles. The freeby analysis will not have the all important TBN. For me, I'll change every 7500 miles on my Triton and use a quality filter like Motorcraft or Purolator and not worry about spending money on things I really don't need. Amsoil and their by-pass system on a gas engine is a lot like big wheels and tires. It won't get you there any quicker or any better but some folks just like the fantasy over it.

 

Labnerd, thanks for the level headed reply and taking the time to read through the discussion completely. It was great reading your post. That is a typo in the original poster's link...1/10 of a micron is simply impossible.

Blackstone labs has a pretty good write-up on bypass filtration, as it seems most people here don't fully understand the purpose of them.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/by-pa...iltration.html

OCI's are all conditional to each situation. That's why it's important to run a UOA if you plan on extending your change intervals like I plan on doing. If you run a 5-7.5k OCI, then by all means don't consider anything I've explained. You'll still have plenty of additive left in your oil, it's just your filter is probablygone.

You're right, the TBN analysis makes it 32 bucks. I don't think I'll do a TBN until I reach around the 10k miles... Anyway, a synthetic oil change with filter may run $40-50. The price difference is marginal in the short run, but if you do this early on after your vehicles break-in, the system might pay for itself down the road... (Plus the system is easily transfered from vehicle to vehicle if you trade-in.)

I think I'd like to spend that $30 and know exactly what's going on rather than put $50 in and wing-it. A good UOA company will tell you a lot about what you can't see inside your engine...

 

Well I changed my oil yesterday and put The MC filter in and 5w30 penzoil started motor heard ticking sound just for a few second till new oil got pump around. I started up today and I had no ticking in motor like with the fram.I'll see now as the oil gets some miles on it if it comes back if it doesn't I'll stick with motorcraft in all my Fords from now on....I did notice that not much oil drained out of the fram after taking it off don't know if that means anything or not.......Who makes valvoline filters that what monroe muffler shops uses are they a good filter...

 

Mnay years I did as some on have done - cut open several different filter types to just see what they looked like inside. They were a MotorCraft, AC Delco, STP, Fram, and a Purelator. Two stood out from the rest: the AC Delco that advertised having twice as much paper filter inside, and it did. And the Fram with it's paper ends and the string holding the pleats on the filtering paper together and overall cheap construction. I'm not saying the Fram didn't do as good a job as the others, but it's cheap construction turned me off from ever buying another again.

 

So boys & girls, what have we learned here? Oil analysis at $25-$32, every 5,000 miles, will tell you how dirty your oil is and whether you need to change it or not. $32 later, and you still don't have clean oil - just dirty oil that is still usable. Why not just change your oil? How does it benefit you to keep using the dirty oil until you can't use it anymore? Your not saving any money because you're paying for oil analysis. If you really wanted to save money, you will find one of those dealerships with the discount oil change prices, and just change your oil more often. In my neck of the woods, a Lincoln dealership does $5 oil changes. Some dealerships offer them for even less. At one point, a local ford dealership offered oil changes for a penny. At that price, I can change the oil once a month if I wanted. Or just buy up the low priced MotorCraft oil & filter at Walmart and do that every 3.000 miles - like it says in the book.

 

STP is about the same at AutoZone , in AZ