No ! That's a$$ backward. You shouldn't be touching your vehicle if you don't know that you have to disconnect the battery FIRST - BEFORE you even work on the motor. ALWAYS DISCONNECT !!

For 1 - It's a safety issue. 2 - How is you PCM suppose yo learn and reset fuel/air mixtures/trans tables if you don't initialize learning mode and it's adaptive stratagies ??? 3 - Why ask us, if you not willing to listen ? Everyone has given you great advice here.

Best thing you can do for yourself at this point is purchase a Haynes or Chilton's book and read. Use the search bar feature in this forum and search your problem and READ - If you truly want to learn anything.

Ford Mechanic way - Your computer will struggle to learn changes you make if "Air Metering" changes have been made and you didin't disconnect first. You could also fry your PCM that way if you accidently short/ground a hot lead out when working on it without disconnecting first. It will also take FOREVER /up to 800 miles or more to learn!! - So Y do that ? It's bad advice all around and not in any way good for you, your electronics and your motor.

Listen to people here, we are on your side

 

heres the best advice i can give you. a Ford tech gets paid to have your vehicle come in. if he gives false information and you give up, you'll take your vehicle in.

 

I have disconnected the battery and let the computer reset before everything I’ve done to the engine.

When I said "So I’ve been trying things and waiting for it to go off" all I was talking about was putting injector cleaner in the fuel and I removed the plastic cover above the Throttle Body because it looked like it was pushing on a hose and might be causing it to come lose.

The Ford Mech that I talked to was a former room mate who lives in another state and has no vested interest in me bringing my truck in. All he said was that if it was running lean it could be due to some gummed up injectors and to put the cleaner in the fuel. He stated that if that was the case and if the cleaner was to fix the problem the sensors would pick up on it and the CEL would go away.

I guess I could have bee a little more detailed in what I was saying, but I am listening.

Any way, I disconnected the battery and let the comp. reset and the light came back on and the revving and dieing returned. I ordered the new tube and I bought a vacuum gage so my plan it tomorrow is to replace that and check the pressure. The biggest problem I am having right now is time. I work a 10 hr grave yard shift, so when I’m not working I’m sleeping. I only have about 30 min a day to mess with things. If I dont get it fixed soon I am just going to remove the spacer. I dont want to keep running it lean.

Thanks for all of the help everyone.

 

eh? 10 hr shifts? suck it up!

check out your vac, that can tell you so much about your truck!

i wonder if the loping idle complicates itself by causing spikes in vac, which in turn would alter your fuel pressure. again would be vacuum.

 

Jerk...I need my sleep

 

did it straighten up yet??

 

lol i worked 12's for months straight. so i figured i had room to flip ya crap.

 

Nope...and i didnt get a chance to work on it today either. I had a guy come by to buy my old engine and trans out of my mustang so i delt with that.

 

Yeah Ive done those too.

 

So ive been gone for a while but i got it fixed...it was a bad gasket. thanks for all of the help.

 

- On 7 12's now- When it's not raining and it's done allot of that latley

 

I knew it couldn't of been that Gotts mod - Throttle body spacers are just bad anyway way you slice it. They never add anything, but problems and some f^cked up sounding noises . Just wait until the off-set blocks loosen up on yuh - So many suckers out there buy them - Keep those guys in business.