No Oil on Dipstick, Fresh Oil Change?

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Old 06-25-2008 | 05:06 PM
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No Oil on Dipstick, Fresh Oil Change?

Hey guys,
I would like to first say that this appears to be a wonderful forum; there is such a wealth of information here. I did a search before posting this, but can't really seem to find a definite answer. Here is the situation: I have an '03 F150 KR w/ the 5.4L triton. I purchased it from a dealer (it was a local trade) back in March with 91K on it. The truck looks brand new, the old guy that had it took great care of it. I am a big synthetic oil freak, and I use the Mobil One long life filter for my truck. The engine is stock except for a full K&N intake I purchased (forgot the model name).

1: I change the oil at 94K, using 6 quarts of Mobil One 5W20 with the long life filter. I did not spill any oil, nor notice any leaks in my driveway. I had planned to run the oil 7-8K, instead of the 10K the filter is guaranteed for.

2: At 98K, I decide to check my oil after detailing the truck. It is parked on level ground, and hasn't been started in 4-5hrs. I wipe the Dipstick clean, and check it, to find there it's bone dry! There isn't a drop of oil on it, after 3-4 attempts to recheck.

3: I freak out, and rush out to Walmart and buy 6 quarts of mentioned MO oil. I drain the old oil to find out a good 4.5-5 quarts comes rushing out. I decide to not remove the MO filter since it has only been 4K miles since I installed it the first time. I start the motor, turn it out and check oil. DP shows the oil level to be right in the middle of the hatch area, bingo!

4:Yesterday, I turned 100K and decided to check the oil again. Engine is cold, I check it to find that the Dipstick is bone dry again! I start the truck, then turn it off after about 30 seconds. I notice a big blue cloud of choking oil smoke. I waited a few minutes and start the truck again, with no smoke and no strange noise. The engine runs like it's brand new, there is no vibration in the steering wheel, oil pressure idiot gauge reports its normal. I had no choice but to drive the truck to a Dr.'s appointment 5 miles away, and it ran like it was brand new.

My father is an old school mechanic, and after explaining everything to him on the phone, he seems to think that the drain holes in the head are gummed up and the oil is not getting back down into the base pan. I really hope someone here could shed some light on the issue for me without me having to take it to a dealer. I have an extended warranty on the truck, but it doesn't cover "oil consumption", which is going to be the first thing they want to lay blame to. Do you guys have any thoughts or ideas as to what could cause this?
 
  #2  
Old 06-25-2008 | 05:15 PM
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Higher mileage motors will burn some oil, esp when it is 5-20w used. You could easily change to a 5-30 to help with oil consumption if your concerned.

I am like you in I dont like my truck to burn a drop, but truth is all motors burn oil. If you think you have some build up of sludge you could run a 1/3 ratio of trans fluid and oil. Just let it idle and keep an eye on it for an hour or so then drain and add fresh oil. Trans fluid has amazing cleaning properties and will make short work of sludge in many oil pasages.
 
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Old 06-25-2008 | 05:19 PM
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This should have the answers you are looking for.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...il+consumption

Post #13 has Fords official specs.
 

Last edited by grizzstang; 06-25-2008 at 05:24 PM.
  #4  
Old 06-25-2008 | 05:41 PM
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From: So. Texas
Because the Triton engines use a low tension ring, there has been an issue with these engines using oil. Low tension rings can become easily stuck. Because of the mileage, and I assume you bought it used, I would run a dose of Auto-Rx thru it. Auto- Rx is a lanolin ester and it will slowly clean your engine. Do not use a quicky flush as these are solvent based and will generally cause damage to the engine. After the Auto-Rx, I'd stay away from the synthetics as they make the issue worse. Use a quality blend. The blends will also give you lower wear metals in analysis.
http://www.auto-rx.com/

I am not affiliated in any way with the Auto-Rx company or product. If you use it, make sure to follow the instructions to the letter.
 
  #5  
Old 06-25-2008 | 06:53 PM
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I'd check the dipstick and the tube to make sure they are not loose causing a false reading when checking the oil.

I remember one member had a hole in the tube and the dipstick would poke through it causing a false reading too.
 
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Old 06-25-2008 | 07:04 PM
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With your mileage and using mobile one you will use oil! check it every 2,500 miles to be safe. Standard oil is fine for these engines.
 
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Old 07-01-2008 | 04:34 PM
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I'd like to thank everyone for their information. I decided to use a flush recommended by a highly respected local shop. I will then go back to using the MotorCraft 5W20 Syntheic blend instead of the MO full syntheic.
 
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Old 07-01-2008 | 06:52 PM
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Aren't you supposed to check the oil when the motor is hot, but not running?
 
  #9  
Old 07-01-2008 | 07:37 PM
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No, you are supposed to check it cold before starting it.
 
  #10  
Old 07-01-2008 | 08:06 PM
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Dont the 5.4's take 7 quarts including the filter?

If you think oil is pooling on top of the cylinder heads, park the truck nose down, crank it and wait. There is no baffle in the filler neck. You can see right into the valve cover on the passenger side.

For whatever reason, I have seen my truck smoke If I start it, quickly shut it off and restart it.
 

Last edited by hllon4whls; 07-01-2008 at 08:19 PM.
  #11  
Old 07-01-2008 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by hllon4whls
Dont the 5.4's take 7 quarts including the filter?

If you think oil is pooling on top of the cylinder heads, park the truck nose down, crank it and wait. There is no baffle in the filler neck. You can see right into the valve cover on the passenger side.

For whatever reason, I have seen my truck smoke If I start it, quickly shut it off and restart it.
Only the 04 up 5.4 3V use 7 quarts. 97-03 use 6 quarts.
 
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Old 07-01-2008 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by kingfish51
Only the 04 up 5.4 3V use 7 quarts. 97-03 use 6 quarts.
Gotcha didnt notice the vehicle year.
 
  #13  
Old 07-02-2008 | 12:18 AM
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From: MI
Originally Posted by 03KingRanch2181
Hey guys,
Do you guys have any thoughts or ideas as to what could cause this?
Yea, an after market PCV valve can - out of the box. - FRAM valves in-particular. The Margins for the spring/ball are not even close to what the Motorcraft valves are - They are tight enough to obstruct flow. Just make sure you have a Motorcraft Valve in there. When you PCV system starts to plug or if you have a bad valve. The motor will burn oil.

If not, you might want to try a Motor-vac Service at a dealership to clean the engine internals (heads/valve train). Could be sticky valves = Smoke at start AFTER sitting. Oil leaches past the valve seats and builds in the cylinders. It burns off after starting = That's the smoke you see.

BTW - It's not hurting anything really, just keep a better eye on your oil level and don't over-fill. The top hash means MAX on the stick - Not full. Full is usually 1/4 - 1/2 down from the top hash mark. Over filling is hard on them. - I would get a Motorvac Service/ Switch to 5/30w/ Check the entire PCV system and make sure you have a Motorcraft valve.

Good Luck
 

Last edited by jbrew; 07-02-2008 at 12:24 AM.
  #14  
Old 07-02-2008 | 08:27 AM
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Valve guides are probably worn. Do you have access to a vacuum gauge by any chance?
 
  #15  
Old 07-02-2008 | 05:19 PM
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Your case sounds a lot like mine.

Short story: sudden failure of my PCV valve at about 125k miles caused my oil consumption, which was normally very low, to suddenly go sky-high. Went through four quarts in around 3000 miles. Changed PCV valve with Motorcraft part ($6 or $7 at my local dealershiP) and oil consumption went right back to normal (very low).

I would definitely try a new PCV valve before I tried anything else.


Long story here https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=293526
 



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