02' 4.6 Screw
#16
LOL... thanks tarajerame.
I happened to notice the bright yellow dipstick handle in the first pic, but appreciate the pointing it out in the second pic...lol
Yea, mine is obviously "not present".
I'll be heading out today for a replacement.
They sure do put it down low enough don't they.
Thanks again!
I happened to notice the bright yellow dipstick handle in the first pic, but appreciate the pointing it out in the second pic...lol
Yea, mine is obviously "not present".
I'll be heading out today for a replacement.
They sure do put it down low enough don't they.
Thanks again!
#18
As mentioned previously, if i shine a flashlight down and at just the right angle, i can barely see a 3/8 - 1/2 tube opening. Besides the corrosion, it appears to be a smooth opening.
I guess i invision this to be where the tube and dipstick units i am missing are to be connected to.
I don't know the complete parts list from the point of the block out for this dipstick, all i know is i can barely see an existing tube opening. I can't even see from the best angle, how or where that open tube attaches to the block, but given i am missing my dipstick and tube it goes in, i can only assume it must go into that tube opening....
Whatcha think?
I guess i invision this to be where the tube and dipstick units i am missing are to be connected to.
I don't know the complete parts list from the point of the block out for this dipstick, all i know is i can barely see an existing tube opening. I can't even see from the best angle, how or where that open tube attaches to the block, but given i am missing my dipstick and tube it goes in, i can only assume it must go into that tube opening....
Whatcha think?
#20
Take these words of advice from one who has alrady delt with this.
Do not use a used tube.
You will have a hassle getting the old tube out of the block and the new tube in place.
The tube only has an O ring seal but will be so corroded and full of rust it won't come out easy.
Use an agent to soften the crud and be carefull on extraction by working it until it is loose.
The new tube will be too long to slip in place.
Cut about 1" off the new tube at the block end so you can get it passed the header. This won't hurt anything in the crankcase or change the reading level of the oil because the tube has a limit ridge that sets the position in the block in relation to dip stick length.
Be patient and take it one step at a time. Clean around the block before doing any work and try not to let any metal and dirt fall in more than can be helped.
Good luck.
Do not use a used tube.
You will have a hassle getting the old tube out of the block and the new tube in place.
The tube only has an O ring seal but will be so corroded and full of rust it won't come out easy.
Use an agent to soften the crud and be carefull on extraction by working it until it is loose.
The new tube will be too long to slip in place.
Cut about 1" off the new tube at the block end so you can get it passed the header. This won't hurt anything in the crankcase or change the reading level of the oil because the tube has a limit ridge that sets the position in the block in relation to dip stick length.
Be patient and take it one step at a time. Clean around the block before doing any work and try not to let any metal and dirt fall in more than can be helped.
Good luck.
Last edited by Bluegrass; 10-18-2008 at 02:44 PM.
#21
Just got back from ordering the dipstick unit. $25 for tube...fortunately i asked...another $15 for the dipstick...when they told me the bolt is $8 i said i would buy one elsewhere.
It was like pulling teeth to even see a microfishe of the part...kept telling me "No, no pictures"... <eyeroll> This is a fugging Ford dealership and they can't find a picture or illustration? I finally saw an assembly illustration. It appears the lowest few inches of the tube has a short piece on the end of it, the part that actually goes into the block.
That is apparently the tube opening i can barely get a view of on my engine as it stands right now.
I did forget to ask if the O ring, you mentioned Bluegrass, comes with it. My luck, it doesn't.
It just amazes me, as i stood at the counter, looking at a couple service award plaques on the wall, and dealing with this idiot of a parts manager, that he was going to let me walk out with just the tube and kept insisting there were no pictures of the assembly. I repeated "I am missing the entire oil dip tstick unit, do we have everything ordered that i need to replace it? I'm hopeful but doubtful.
Cut an inch off huh? Seems odd but if i get in a pinch i'll remember the tip.
Thanks!
It was like pulling teeth to even see a microfishe of the part...kept telling me "No, no pictures"... <eyeroll> This is a fugging Ford dealership and they can't find a picture or illustration? I finally saw an assembly illustration. It appears the lowest few inches of the tube has a short piece on the end of it, the part that actually goes into the block.
That is apparently the tube opening i can barely get a view of on my engine as it stands right now.
I did forget to ask if the O ring, you mentioned Bluegrass, comes with it. My luck, it doesn't.
It just amazes me, as i stood at the counter, looking at a couple service award plaques on the wall, and dealing with this idiot of a parts manager, that he was going to let me walk out with just the tube and kept insisting there were no pictures of the assembly. I repeated "I am missing the entire oil dip tstick unit, do we have everything ordered that i need to replace it? I'm hopeful but doubtful.
Cut an inch off huh? Seems odd but if i get in a pinch i'll remember the tip.
Thanks!
Last edited by TazzRider; 10-20-2008 at 07:41 PM.
#22
yea if you look at the bottom end of the tube there is a rib that goes around it, about 2" up from the bottom. The rib sits flush with the block. So if you cut a little bit off of the bottom it could be easier to get it in.
Me personally, i wouldnt cut it, but it does make sense what he's saying
Me personally, i wouldnt cut it, but it does make sense what he's saying
#23
Well, I got the replacement. Now that i know what it looks like, I can shine a light through the wheel well and see that the one on my engine has been broken off clean at the securing flange. The flange is still attached at the block.
These things must be fragile. I also understand now what i had been reading about a wire dipstick...it's not a typical rod type.
Thanks for the tips on replacement. Hoping to do that and change over to Amsoil this weekend. I requested 5w-20 oil, however, my supplier had 0w-20 on hand and suggested it wouldn't be an issue here in Michigan.
Hopefully all goes smooth. (Currently at 84,000 miles).
These things must be fragile. I also understand now what i had been reading about a wire dipstick...it's not a typical rod type.
Thanks for the tips on replacement. Hoping to do that and change over to Amsoil this weekend. I requested 5w-20 oil, however, my supplier had 0w-20 on hand and suggested it wouldn't be an issue here in Michigan.
Hopefully all goes smooth. (Currently at 84,000 miles).
#24
Got the new dipstick unit in last weekend. Unbolted the retaining bracket from the block. Bluegrass, you were spot on with your comments. Broken tube didn't want to come out nor even spin. Got a good lock on her with some vice grips and worked it a bit till she would at least rotate. Re-gripped on her, whacked upward against the vice grip and she popped out.
It is indeed a tight fit for the new long tube. Cutting off an inch helped for sure.
Thanks again guys for the tips!
It is indeed a tight fit for the new long tube. Cutting off an inch helped for sure.
Thanks again guys for the tips!