ok so have a 1999 F-150 with the 5.4L engine and it had a misfire in cylinder #2, it ended up being a cracked coil and also found #1 was cracked also, so i changed them and paid $50.00 each, is that the going rate for these coils? someone said that they were only $7.50 each.. did i get ripped off? so if anyone could tell me how much the coils should cost would be great.. thanks

 

$10.00 @ Global http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-I...mZ150289716712

 

That someone would be me - User name = jbrew. They went up in price, but very little..Quite a few people on this site get them from Kevin @ Global..

No one ripped you off. You gave them your money willingly correct? So who's fault is that

All that you had to do here is ask us or use the sites search bar and you would have had the info pretty quick. Next time ehh..

OEM -DG508,- $69.95 for all 8 = $ 8.74 per coil (without shipping) Hit the link below for a look see. -

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-I...mZ400006831513

 

ok so yes i did pay to much and is my fault for not asking on the site before i got them, but i did need them asap so had no choice but to by them right away and couldn't want to be shipped.. but i will order the rest online.. thanks for the help once again.. i am new to the site and not used to it yet, have not gone through and looked the whole site over yet... so i will ask one more question....

i need to find a spark plug socket to fit down the so i can get the plugs out, all the standard ones don't fit in the hole and don't know where they sell them...

 

What size are you trying to shove in there .

Takes a standard 5/8 plug socket. You can get em anywhere they sell sockets.. Try it again,that will work.

Welcome to the site

 

You can either use an extension (preferably a locking one) or go to harbor freight and pick up there extra long spark plug socket.

 

Don't feel bad I paid $75 for one last summer when I was traveling and one went out, I had no choice to pay it to have it right away, as it was 500 miles away from home pulling a tractor. I might just order a few to have for spares laying around...

 

Order a set of 8 from Global and change them all. Keep your overpriced ones for spares.

 

its a S&K standard 5/8 spark plug socket, it didn't fit in the hole,

i plan on ordering a set of 8 coils from Global. and i'll take a run to harbor freight this week pick up some, need some other tools anyways from there..

whats the best plug to run in the 5.4L??

this is a really good site, tons of info and helpful people here

 

Good luck with the COP and plug change. As for the plugs, it sounds like sticking with the stock motorcraft is the way to go. After the next pay day I will be getting a set of the plugs and the COPs from Global and see if it makes a difference in my truck.

 

Welcome to the site.
I just wrote this proceedure down for a guy the other day on this forum. Your 1999 is set up the same as my 1998.
I changed out my plugs and coils on Friday. Put new Motorcraft dbl plats in and new Global COP's. 1 coil out of 8 was no good from the box. Kevin from Global already emailed me and let me know that as soon as I send him the defective one, he will ship one ASAP. I had to use one of the COP's that I just pulled out to hold me over until it shows up. Thankfully it was #3 cylinder. 20 minute replacement. In the write up below, I stated That I pulled my fuel rails. This time I didn't. Takes some work but it can be done. #4,7,8 Cylinders are a pain, especially the COP hold down screws but patience will get you through it. I used a standard 5/8" plug socket, can't imagine what is up with your truck.


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This is the write up for another member who was asking for help.

Believe me, this info doesn't come from just me. There are some very experienced and knowledgable members on here. I found out about the Coils from this web-site, I believe Jbrew headed me in that direction.

If you use the search feature on this site, you will most likely find the info you need for changing the plugs & COP's on your 2000 5.4 V8. Most importantly, search to make sure there is no problems pulling the plugs on your 2000. Some years have breakage problems, not sure on the 2000.

On my 1998 here is what I do.

(1) Some members on here can remove all 8 coils without removing the fuel- rails. Myself, I can remove COP's & plugs 123 & 456 without removing the fuel rail. I can not get to Cop's and plugs 7 & 8 without removing the fuel-rails.
I pull the fuel rail !!

(2) Your coil connectors are short enough that you shouldn't have a problem matching them back up. If you are concerned about this, do one COP & plug at a time. The hex head bolt on the COP's takes a 7 mm socket to remove the hold down bolts. If you lose one, it is a 5mm thread.

(3) When you receive your new coils, MAKE SURE !!, you use plenty of dielectric grease inside the coil boots. Gently pull the boot from the coil making sure you don't stretch or break the long coil spring. Once the boot is off, I squirt a good amount in both ends of the boot. I use a a long 3/16" wide ziptie to push the grease down and around inside the boot. Make sure the entire inside wall is covered. Reconnect the boots on the coils.

(4) MAKE SURE YOUR ENGINE IS COOLED DOWN COMPLETLY BEFORE PULLING YOUR PLUGS. USE MOTORCRAFT PLUGS ONLY (dbl plats if you like). If you have a plug that is giving you trouble coming out, stop and spray some
"PB Blaster" penetrating oil down in that cylinder around the plug and go back to it later. Sometimes you may need to spray it a few times and let it sit over night. I know this, because I've done it in the past. I use an old small shop vac to get out the excess PB Blaster, you can probably get the excess out with shop paper towels as well. CHECK the gap on your plugs and install the new ones. MAKE SURE you use the Ford spec to torque them in.

(5) Install your new COP's. Make sure you put in the hold down screws and plug your connectors back on correctly. Put everything back together that you had to tear down to get to these plugs. If you pulled your fuel-rail, inspect the O-RINGS on the injectors and make sure they are in good shape. Personnaly, I am replacing mine, they are not expensive. Use a little oil or light grease on the o-rings before you put the fuel-rail back on. Someone on this site can give you the proper lubricant to use on the o-rings. I use a light film of dielectric grease. MAKE SURE you reconnect everything properly. Do not forget to plug in your MAF Sensor connector under the air cleaner intake.

That's it I think. I hope I didn't leave anything out. I wrote this as if I was going through and doing it on my truck. If I did miss something, hopefully someone will read this and fill in the miss. I'm pretty confident that I didn't miss anything. There are other members who do it differently with little tips, tricks, etc. Hopefully they will read this and add the extra info.

If you have any doubt about doing this proceedure, I recommend that you take it to a good mechanic who has done this before. It should be only a 4 hour labor charge at most. Well worth it if you have any doubts.

Good Luck, let us know how you make out.

TJKinCNY

 

Huh, - never heard of that. I use two old Craftsman sockets 5/8 Plug sockets. I use one w/insert and one without/insert. Insert for pulling/no insert for install. - Otherwise you could have trouble getting that sock out of the chamber. - I'm sure a few of us ran into that one before ...

Denso (IT16's) are the best plugs for your model IMO./Motorcraft is very good as well, - The fail safe plug..

 

you can also just weld the spark plug socket to the extension and then to a swivel and it works rather good

 

I have never heard of a 5/8 Spark Plug socket not fitting down the Chamber. I just tried a bunch and all fit.. An SK won't fit ? You sure ? - Don't make me go buy an SK set now - Hell, I need more sockets now anyway, running low.. I keep useing none impact sockets in the Ingersoll when their handy - My bad.