Good for you...but many do every day with zero problems.

You don't have to change every 3k. Just an example to prove a point. Even every 5k, the Amsoil is still cheaper. Besides, who would run a MC filter for much longer than 5k? I think very much of my vehicles, and would argue I'm a big a gearhead as any guy on here. But that's pointless to try and argue on here. I don't care about my truck cause I go that long on an oil change...I say you don't care about yours for running a cheap MC filter instead of a quality one. Tomato vs tomato.

Amsoil says 25,000. They do have a severe service recommendation of 15,000, but so does your owners manual, so don't try to say that's a skapegoat for them.

And like George said, you guys have been around enough to know that the visual inspection of an oil tells you absolutely nothing! You want to argue oil conditon, you need to bring analysis proof to the fight. If looks told you something about an oil, I guess diesel guys would have to change their oil ever 10-20 miles or so! Also like George said, the MC is a cheap filter in comparison, especially to the Amsoil or M1 filters. Like I said earlier in this thread, go compare the two for yourself. When you re-read my post, note I did not say it wasn't a good filter though.

 

Galaxy, for these guys that insist on changing their oil every 5k or less, we are barking up the wrong tree. Leave them alone to use whatever they want, when you change it that often you could damn near use my drain oil and a Fram filter......

 

Yes, I know.

 

Galaxy- I know this is apples and oranges and doesn't count for anything but you call Motorcraft a cheap oil filter (I disagree). I am old enough to remember when part of the printing right on the side of the standard Motorcraft filter (as in FL-1) it said "15,000 Mile Oil Filter"

 

Ha...that's funny! I'm not that old LOL Never seen that one. Heck, even MC filters are odd. I still remember the so called "820S" that came new on my truck was absolutely, positively not the 820 you buy in the stores today. The internals looked completely different and you could just tell it was some kind of heavy duty built filter...but it said 820S on the side. I searched and searched and searched for the answer to that one but never did find anything.

When I sad the MC was cheap, keep in mind I meant it in a "relative" term. For example; TAG watches are cheap...when you compare them to Breitling. My Lexus is cheap...when you compare it to an Aston Martin

 

Galaxy- The factory always uses a filter that you cannot buy, when they build the motor. I don't know if it is finer element, more of it or what, but it is only used for factory build. Seems like they were gray at one time but I'm not positive about that, it would have been a while ago.

 

ya no kidding i would hate to change my f350's oil everytime it looked black...haha well ..i would have to change it like everytime i started it

 

Instead of "cheap", let's use the term "less expensive", okay? The Motorcraft filter is in the same price bracket as Fram and all the other "standard" filters, and as such, it's one of the better ones out there.

 

i never said you could tell if oil was bad by looking at it. and yes i know regular conventional oil will last over 3k. but guess what, im still gonna change mine at 3k with a motorcraft filter.

when i commented on the sheriffs cars going 25k with amosil and amsoil filter and the oil being black, what i left out was AFTER the oil change...i'd fill up the motor, run it for a little bit to fill up the filter, check the oil....black on the dipstick....thats the point i was trying to get at...

i changed my grandads '98 7.3 at 2,500k with rotella and a, guess what kinda filter .... wix filter and it was black draining of course, but after we filled it up it was clear as ever on the dipstick

 

Wix is one filter that has never seemed to drop in quality. I used them when I was in my teens (and that was a LONG time ago ). They were an excellent filter then and they still are.

 

thats probably why my grandad used it on his PSD.

now with his triton he uses.....motorcraft

 

well call me crazy, but I use MC filter and full syn old and I change my oil every 3K or no more than 3,200 miles.

 

Hi,
I am the Technical Manager for FRAM. Your porblem is not caused by the filter. Look at our website www.fram.com and read the magnussen moss act under the technical section. Ford DOES NOT require you to use a Ford filter to maintain your warranty. Your truck has cam phaser noise, a known issue with these trucks, your dealer is playing you.
Here is a copy of the TSB
TSB 06-19-8

10/02/06

TICKING AND / OR KNOCKING NOISE / STARTUP RATTLE FROM ENGINE - 4.6L / 5.4L 3V

FORD:
2005 Mustang
2004-2005 F-150
2005 Expedition, F-250, F-350

LINCOLN:
2005 Navigator

This article supersedes TSB 06-4-7 to update the Service Procedure.

ISSUE
Some vehicles equipped with a 4.6L 3-valve or 5.4L 3-valve engine may exhibit a ticking and I or knocking noise after reaching normal operating temperature, or a rattle upon starting. The noise may be described as ticks, taps, knocks, or thumps. In some cases the noise may be a normal characteristic of these engines. In other cases the noise may require further investigation. Sorting out and defining the noise as reported by the customer is important to successfully diagnose and I or repair the condition.

ACTION
Before starting diagnosis, it is critical to determine the specific engine noise the customer is concerned with. The customer should be interviewed to get their detailed perception and description of the noise, and to determine if the noise occurs at idle or above idle speed, and if the engine is cold, hot, or both. Attempt to duplicate the noise, and determine the source of the symptom. Refer to the following Service Procedure to help determine the source of the noise and if a repair is needed.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

NOTE READ THIS SECTION IN ITS ENTIRETY BEFORE BEGINNING.

NOTE THE 4.6L 3V AND 5.4L 3V ENGINES ARE INSTALLED IN SEVERAL VEHICLE PLATFORMS, WHICH MAY INFLUENCE THE INTENSITY OF NOISE DUE TO VEHICLE DIFFERENCES IN SOUND TRANSMISSION PATHS, HOOD AND BODY INSULATION PACKAGES, AND ROOT CAUSE OF THE COMPONENT(S) CAUSING THE NOISE.

PRE-CHECKS

1. Make sure you have a detailed description of the noise the customer is concerned with, including whether the noise is occurring at idle or above idle speed (does it disappear above 1200 RPM), and if the engine is cold, hot, or both when the noise is occurring. These engines generate a lot of "normal" noises, so it is critical to confirm the noise the customer is concerned with. Determine what environment the customer is in when the noise is most noticeable to them (inside passenger compartment, next to building with / without the driver and / or passenger window open, or beside the wheel well). Validate by using your own perception.

2. Compare the noise generated with a new vehicle, if available, with an ENGINE build date of 3/30/2005 or later on Mustang and 4/18/2005 or later on F-150 to F-350, Expedition and Navigator vehicles.

3. Diagnose noise when engine is at normal operating temperature (Oil at 160°F (71°C) or above). Verify oil temperature by using a diagnostic scan tool and monitoring the engine oil temperature (EOT) PID. Startup rattle may only occur with cold oil.

4. Check the type of oil filter installed on the vehicle. A dirty or clogged filter may cause a pressure drop. Look for aftermarket brands not recognized in the market or a production filter that has gone beyond the standard Ford recommended change interval.

5. Check for signs of oil brand used and viscosity (interview customer if needed). Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil or equivalent is recommended.


Once the above pre-checks are complete, check for sound level from the following components, in the order listed. Compare the sound from these components to the noise the customer is concerned with, to determine the source of the noise.

INJECTION / FUEL SYSTEM

Injector noise (ticking) is considered normal. Noise increases with RPM hot or cold and is recognized at the top of the engine.

VALVE TRAIN

Lash adjusters can make a ticking / tapping noise noticeable at any engine RPM / temperature and is audible through the wheel well or an open hood. However, with the hood down, lash adjuster noise can be heard as a light tapping noise through the wheel well and is considered normal.

Tracing this noise must be isolated to a cylinder bank. If one bank is louder than the other bank, focus the diagnostic to the loud bank. If both banks seem loud with the hood down, compare wheel well sound level to another comparable vehicle.

Use a stethoscope on the top of the cam cover bolt heads to confirm which bank is affected. Move the probe from front to rear if necessary.
If isolated, only replace the intake and exhaust lifters on the affected cylinder bank.

VARIABLE CAM TIMING

The 4.6L 3V and 5.4L 3V variable cam timing (VCT) feature may emit a light knock in normal operation and is audible only at idle speed, with a hot engine (gear selector in park I neutral). However, it may be masked by or mistaken for other noises generated from either injector firing or a malfunctioning valve train as described above. The noise does not affect performance or durability of the part.

VCT phasers may knock at hot idle. It may be heard inside the passenger compartment, or the wheel well area. Some light noise is normal. The engine may require a cold soak overnight for a full diagnosis to effectively be made at hot idle, particularly when a VCT phaser is suspected. The knock is not prevalent at cold temperature.

To test for VCT noise:

1. Place the transmission in park or neutral

2. Bring engine oil temperature to 160°F (71°C) or above as indicated by the scan tool "EOT" PID.

3. Allow engine to idle, and determine if noise is noticeable.

4. Set engine speed to over 1200 RPM (if noise is a VCT knock, the noise should disappear).

5. Return engine speed to idle (verify knock returns).


If the noise intensity is more than a lightly audible knock at hot idle under 1200 RPM at engine operating temperature, replace the cam phaser using the "In-Vehicle Repair" Camshaft Phaser and Sprocket procedure found in the Workshop Manual, Section 303-01

START UP RATTLE

Some 2004 F-150 and 2005 F-150, Expedition, Navigator, F-Super Duty, and Mustang vehicles may have a rattle on startup that lasts 1 to 3 seconds. If initial pre-checks have been completed and the noise sounds like it is coming from the front of the engine, replace the VCT Phaser Kit. If the engine continues to make the rattle noise after the initial startup do not exchange VCT.







Parts Block

WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME

061908A 2005 Expedition / 4.5 Hrs.
Navigator 5.4L 3V:
Replace Right Bank Lash
Adjusters And / Or
Camshaft Sprocket /
Phaser (6500A, 6256A,
6250A, 6020A, 6268B,
6266A, 6584A, 9424A)


If you need further help or info, I can be reached at Jay.Buckley@Honeywell.com

 

Jay, if you are that confident about your products, how about helping this guy go to bat with his dealer over this issue? Not trying to be rude, but put your money where your mouth is.

If you are ever denied a warranty claim due to use of Amsoil products, that's exactly what they will do, and if the dealer won't budge, Amsoil picks up the tab.

You still have to convince us a lot better here about the quality of your standard orange oil filter.

 

x2 glc....i really hope this guy responds
ive really not been a fram guy for awhile now...i put one on my 95 grand marquis... when i was like 16 and when i started it ..no oil pressure...and then it blew off the car... will never buy another i would make my own before i used another one on anything ...