NO service engine light. Any special replacement hose??---DirtySCREW

 

Thats the heat raise tubes for the egr valve just cut the hose off a little and pull it up if its to short just buy a peace of 5/16 fuel line from the local auto parts store. If it where me i would check with a common hand held OBII scan tool to see if you have any pending or frezze frame data codes and clear them if it does!

 

yea EGR once i saw the big metal pipe.

 

that hose would pop a cel if it were not getting vacuum. I doubt even if it were leaking it would effect fuel economy.. jbrew has reported an increase in fuel economy using the Denso iridium fine wires. I plan on putting them in my truck soon.

 

Just finished up guys. I decided to just use the MCs I bought a few weeks back. I'm tired of spending $$$$ and it doesn't pay off. Now I have the peace of mind knowing the plugs are good---although the old ones didn't look that bad. Probably about 5 hours total...but I was taking my time so I wouldn't get mad, say a lot of bad words and damage something on my truck!----DirtySCREW

 

Yep, those are the lines to the DPFE sensor from the exhaust manifold. The don't look cracked in the picture but if they are, replace them. I don't know the grade, but that hose is usually available at auto parts stores.

Motorcrafts, NGK's or Denso's for the 2V 5.4's all work well. I recently with with the NGK iridiums and recommend them over the Motorcrafts. My truck has never run better and that was after replacing a set of Motorcrafts that were only a few months old.

Guess I was a bit late with this post. Glad you got the job done successfully!

 

Dammit!

Oh well. Well, if I know my luck my COPs will go out in 10-15K miles and I'll put new plugs in again. At least I have practice. I actually was a little intimidated and tahts why I've put it off for so long. Its not that bad....I say a 4 on a scale of 10. Now its a 9 out of 10 for being a pain in the A$$!!!! The rear-most one on the passenger side...MAN! I'm glad I did the drivers side first before I went to the pass side or I would have gotten ill! I had universal joints, extentions, more universal joints, adapters to this and that more extentions...but I finally got it.

GUYS, if you don't listen to ANY tips here PLEASE, I beg you LISTEN TO THIS ONE:

TAPE your sockets, Universal joints, adapters, extentions or whatever when you INSTALL the new spark plugs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I had to completely remove the drivers rear spark plug and tape everything because I could get my u-joint and spark-plug socket back.
I'm sure there's 1000 ways to do it, but I took all the spark plugs out on the drivers side. I blew out each one BEFORE I took it out. I then put a rag in the hole and went to the next. I lined up the COPs in my driveway and put them back the way they went in, although I don't think it matters. I installed from the rear foward. Once completed I did the same for the passenger side.
I cranked the truck and she seem like she was starving for gas. I was scared. I thought I'd inadvertily did something to the fuel rail or fuel injector. Dumb ol me forgot to put the 2 tubes back into the Air intake tube. Recranked and ran good....then started shaking and I heard a loud "hissing" sound. Again, I was freaking out. Dumb ol me again had removed the PCV line and forgot to hook it back up. Hooked it back up and wa-la----smooth idle. I was rushing on the clean up as I wanted to get it the woods. I've already went and have come home, about 90 miles roundtrip. Truck ran fine. Now for my battle wounds (scrapes) to heal from every sharp thing under the hood that scraped me! I just want to know how "Ford Mechanics" do jobs like this. You'd think FORD would design it so its a little easier to work on.
And I SECOND whoever suggested taking the tires off and lowering the truck down!! I stood on a 4" box to get some extra height to work. It still killed my back.

Last---what does the DPFE thing do???---DirtySCREW

 

or you just get a 4" deep spark plug socket that was practically designed for the job

 

DELTA PRESSURE FEEDBACK EGR
(DPFE) SENSORS
WHAT THEY DO
Monitor exhaust pressure changes above and below
a metered orifice. The sensor converts the pressure
into an analog signal, which is sent to the computer
to compute optimum EGR flow.
FAILURE SYMPTOMS
Rough idle, pinging, overheating, loss of power, MIL.
MAINTENANCE/SERVICE
Check when EGR is not functioning correctly, during
emissions performance check, when vehicle fails
emissions test for NOx, or when codes indicate.
LOCATION
On engine or fire wall.

 

The driver's side really isn't that bad. #4 can be a pain but I found if you remove all the tubing from the manifold & PCV valve you can get to the plug well much easier. I also thought I needed a universal to get to #4 but all I had to do was drop in the spark plug socket, then the extension, then attach the wrench and loosen. There's just enough room if you have the right size/combo of spark plug socket + extension. Once you get it loose you can spin the extension and socket by hand to get the plug the rest of the way out. Having the right tools makes all the difference. I bought a new spark plug socket for the job just to be sure I had something reliable & grab those plugs.

It's also a good idea to use a piece of rubber air line (I think 3/8") on the plugs to thread them back in so you lessen the chance of cross threading. Read that on someone's step-by-step procedure posted somewhere. The '03 blocks have more threads than the previous years engines so it's probably more critical for those block with only a few threads.

 

spark plugs go into the Heads, not the block

 

Are the plugs on a '07 5.4 any easier to change than those on a '01 5.4? I remember that the rear driver's side plug was a real pain to remove because of fuel rail.

I use a tiny amount of anti-seize on plugs on all of my vehicles so that the plugs are easier to remove with less chance of seizing. I do know that you want to use it sparingly because it can reduce heat transfer between plug and head. Any other reasons for not using it?

I have a short story to tell. I was driving through a neighborhood and noticed a guy working on an 02 f150 similar to mine. I pulled over to see if he needed any help. He said he had heard some noise from under the hood. He opened the hood and found the plug/coil on top of engine. He bought a new coil and was trying to install it but he said it wouldnt tighten up enough to hold plug in! So I asked him to show me the old plug and well, it had stripped out the threads and the coil mounting tab was broken. I guess he figured a new coil would bolt back on and hold the plug in. He said he had never worked on anything but chevys, lol, so I suggested that he call the used car dealer he had just bought truck from and tell them to send a tow truck.

 

What is the best method to clean out the plug wells?

 

Compressed air. I use my blow out tool. you gotta have a compressor. guess you could vauum them with a shop vac if you dont have air.

 

I went ahead and ordered the Motorcraft plugs, SP-507, for $ 7.37 each, from rockauto.