OK I had a 1995 302 converted to carb and points dist. and put in my 1983 Bronco. It drove....OK....for a month plus then had to start re-setting my points it seems every three days! I bought a new dist. and dropped it in and it ran great for two days and then just died. I found that I had to mess with the dist. timing, micro inch by micro inch. It would start and run for about three blocks and then die again. Again adjusting the dist. timing ( by hearing I must ad as the timing mark for is on the bottom of the harmonic balancer) and it will try and start but to no avail??? Because of the timing mark on the bottom, were thinking the guys that did the engine swap and EFI to carb conversion might have swapped engines on us!(not sure yet) as I have been told that Ford did that on early (mid to late 60's Van engines ) so a person would have to crawl under the van to use a Timing light. Blah...blah...blah.....any ways, anyone have any idea why this is happening? Run then die then run then die now wont start. Thanks from Southern Oregon

 

OK I have to ask. Why would you put a points distributer in it?

How many miles does the 95 302 have on it? Have you been stomping on the go peddle hard?

Did you put the new distributer in right? I don't have my Mustang manual with me at work and it has been a while since I put one in but it sounds like you have the distributer in the wrong position to me.

The number one cylinder should be at TDC on the compression stroke. When everything is lined up right the rotor should be pointing to the number 1 cylinder on the cap and your timing marks on the crank (harmonic balancer) should be lined up. If they don't you have dropped the distributer in on the wrong position or depending on how many miles the motor has on it the timing chain may have a lot of slack in it and skipped a few teeth.

 

First thing i did to my Mach I was jettison the points distributor.. Sounds like your missing a part, the condenser or something. Me I'd go with a non EFI electronic distributor.. Cant imaging why anyone would want that points system..

 

Did you add a ballast resistor to prevent the coil from burning up ?

Bad condenser causing the points to burn's and/or misfire ?

Is it a vaccum or mech advance ?

Is the dwell and timing set right ?

 

Nope...New coil....new points/condenser....vacuum....Dist.is right.....doesn't matter why I went with points....I did.......Timing Chain is good....It has 119,108 miles on it....right at about 140 pounds compression in all cylinders....and cant really time it as stated in my first thread because of the timing mark being at the bottom of the harmonic balancer....It ran great for about a month after I got it back then Pooooooooooooooof......done.....Then WoW, it runs again then after four blocks Poooooooooooof......done again!....Im stumped!

 

Did you dwell the points? It's been so long since I worked on them I don't even remember what the dwell is to be set at. But I do have a working Dwell meter. But if you don't set them right it can cause problems similar to what you are describing. If you take a look at the contacts, I'll bet they are already burnt and corroded.

Do yourself a favor and get a more modern distributer. IMO

 

You need to add a ballast resistor cause the coil is rated for around 9 volts.

The reason is back in the day when you crank on the starter the battery voltage would drop a few volts due to starter drain. So you only had about 9 volts going to the ignition system but once the engine is running you have over 12 volts going to the ignition system so a ballast resistor is used to drop the voltage back down when the engine is running prolonging coil and point life.

This may help

http://www.familycar.com/CLASSROOM/ignition.htm

I still use a 20 year old Mallory dual point distributor in my 302 with Vic jr heads and 275 shot of nitrous, turns 7k with no problems.

 

What you need is an HEI dizzy, period. 2 Wire hook and your done. Get rid of that points crap.

 

Are you sure the problem is with the ignition system and not with a plugged fuel line or filter? I'll never forget the time I was trying to get a '59 Ford car going after it had sat for several years. It would go about a quarter mile and quit. I was replacing all the ignition components and nothing helped. Finally my neighbor told me what the problem was, a plugged gas line.

There is nothing wrong with a properly set up points ignition system IMO. You would need the ballast resistor and would have to reset the points gap from time to time.

 

check the timing chain late 80's early to mid 90's 302's in my experience were bad about streching the chain it usally happened around 100,000 miles, especially with electronic ignitions and with points and condensors it could still cause problems running erractic and needing constant adjustment 302,s gain a whole new life with a new timing chain, it will wake up a tired 302 even a small amount of slack is a problem

 

if the timing mark on balancer is at the bottom your not in time i am assuming who ever change the engine put a correct timing cover to accomidate the mechnecal fuel pump and it has the timing mark on the cover -20,-10,0,10,20 so you can properly set the distributor ,and then set the timing.

 

The more that I read this thread, the more I am starting to believe, especially with your location in Southern Oregon, that you may have a fuel system problem, primarily water in the fuel, especially if the vehicle has been sitting for a long length of time. The run a little and then die is very common for water in the fuel to do. I would recommend draining the fuel tank and replacing the gas that is in the tank with fresh gas and see if this takes care of the problem. Also, might want to rebuild the carb while you are at it to remove any traces of water and varnish in any of the internal passages.

P.S. I am a former Oregonian, lived in Salem for over 30 years, so I know about the Oregon climate, and how rain and condensation affect the fuel system.

 

check for a second mark on damper?
check for timing tab on left and right side of timing cover, if 2 which are you using?
Look for a Mallery unilite conversion for your stock dist.
add a ballast resister if you do not have one. Early fords used a resister built into the feed wire so they were not something easy to see like the dodge.

 

You just replied to a thread over 6 years old.

 

I'm going to reply to a 6 year old thread too! Anyone reading this like I did (found it interesting) and doesn't understand the reason for a points distributor, I think the guy might be a prep'er. If you have an electronic ignition it can be ruined by an E.M.P. A nuclear explosion above the earth surface, a point system would not be effected. It's a Zombie Apocalypse thing.

I hope that helps! Ha Ha!