First 200,000+ oil change
#1
First 200,000+ oil change
So just rolled over 200K last week. My first experience trying to change the oil on this thing sucked as it was a PITA to get to the filter. So ive been taking it to Ford, but I think I wanna try it again myself.
What im looking for is suggestions on what is the best oil to use in a 200K+ engine? What filter should I go with? Id like to stick with Motorcraft if possible, but im open to suggestions. Keep in mind I dont drive it like a lil old lady...
Thanks guys
Travis
What im looking for is suggestions on what is the best oil to use in a 200K+ engine? What filter should I go with? Id like to stick with Motorcraft if possible, but im open to suggestions. Keep in mind I dont drive it like a lil old lady...
Thanks guys
Travis
#3
I'm also Motorcraft only, here's why:
Special service messages
21049 1997-2010 multiple vehicle - 4.6l/5.4l - engine ticking and/or rattle noise
multiple vehicle lines with 4.6l or 5.4l engine may experience an engine ticking or rattle noise that sounds like a stuck tappet (hla). This
may be due to the deterioration of an aftermarket oil filter. Vehicles with this condition have low oil pressure at one cylinder head
only, while main pressures are normal. Dislodged material from the aftermarket oil filter blocks the cam cap oil passage, either at
cylinder #4 (right bank rear) or cylinder #5 (left bank front). For vct equipped engines, inspect the vct valve body and the oil passages
under the first cam cap. Damage to engines caused by aftermarket oil filters are not covered under warranty.
Effective date: 10/22/2009
Special service messages
21049 1997-2010 multiple vehicle - 4.6l/5.4l - engine ticking and/or rattle noise
multiple vehicle lines with 4.6l or 5.4l engine may experience an engine ticking or rattle noise that sounds like a stuck tappet (hla). This
may be due to the deterioration of an aftermarket oil filter. Vehicles with this condition have low oil pressure at one cylinder head
only, while main pressures are normal. Dislodged material from the aftermarket oil filter blocks the cam cap oil passage, either at
cylinder #4 (right bank rear) or cylinder #5 (left bank front). For vct equipped engines, inspect the vct valve body and the oil passages
under the first cam cap. Damage to engines caused by aftermarket oil filters are not covered under warranty.
Effective date: 10/22/2009
#5
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Motorcraft doesn't run much more that the cheapo oil at Walmart, so I'd recommend using it anyways.
Check the owners manual in your truck. You may have some weight options since your truck probably rarely sees freezing temps in Scottsdale.
Check the owners manual in your truck. You may have some weight options since your truck probably rarely sees freezing temps in Scottsdale.
#10
From the N.E. States.
I like and have been using
Oil:
Quaker State 5W-30, Synthetic Blend.
Filter:
Purolator, appropriate for your engine.
Me 1998 4.6Ltr. Mileage Total 269,000. Was Supercharged for 3 years.
If you have a "Tow Package" I could inspect the system, and if necessary replace the pressure hoses; since they tend to deteriorate over time.
( I don't want to alert the little maintenance devils, but at this date she is in very good shape.)
Good Luck.
I like and have been using
Oil:
Quaker State 5W-30, Synthetic Blend.
Filter:
Purolator, appropriate for your engine.
Me 1998 4.6Ltr. Mileage Total 269,000. Was Supercharged for 3 years.
If you have a "Tow Package" I could inspect the system, and if necessary replace the pressure hoses; since they tend to deteriorate over time.
( I don't want to alert the little maintenance devils, but at this date she is in very good shape.)
Good Luck.
#12
Your truck came speced from Ford to use an Energy Conserving oil in 5w-30. If it were a low mileage engine, I'd say go with the backward compatible 5w-20, but your engine already has a bunch of wear on it. Using a 5w-20 MAY cause oil starvation at the rings because of leakage at the main bearings.....which of course, are going to be worn. I'd suggest using a 5w-30 oil. FWIW, the newest formulation of Motorcraft is ahead of all of the other formulations. The base is a Gp III fuming acid washed oil which remains high in saturates which is ideal.
FWIW, to keep you guys ahead of the game, the folks formulating Motorcraft oils are working and testing a new formula that includes nano technology. If they succeed in their efforts, for a change, there will be a drastic improvement in wear and fuel mileages as this nano technology is bring LOTS of anti-friction properties to the party. I'll let ya know how this plays out but right now, it's pretty darn exciting.
FWIW, to keep you guys ahead of the game, the folks formulating Motorcraft oils are working and testing a new formula that includes nano technology. If they succeed in their efforts, for a change, there will be a drastic improvement in wear and fuel mileages as this nano technology is bring LOTS of anti-friction properties to the party. I'll let ya know how this plays out but right now, it's pretty darn exciting.
#13
#14
She just keeps goin,-without complaining to much,- does need a little surgery on the body tho lol.
#15
I ran Mobil 1 5W-30 full synthetic for the first 250,000 miles. Changed every 3000 miles. I switched to AMSOIL 5W-30 and have extended the drains to 6000 miles. Used to use about a quart between changes on Mobil 1, only uses about 1/2 quart on AMSOIL even though drain is doubled. The AMSOIL is more expensive, but with the extended drain, costs about the same. I also switched my Trailblazer SS from Mobil 1 (5000 mile drain) to AMSOIL (upped the drain to 10000 miles). That was a tough one (10K drain) I'm kinda old school (3K drain). The SS uses about a quart on the 10K drain, which is not bad. The SS currently has 126,000 miles, the F150 has about 260,000 miles