So I swapped out the slow o2 sensor back this morning to the orginal. Still have the non bouncing condition. Not sure it's a bad thing.

I've got the steady voltage on one(which does move depending on load and throttle) and I've got one that bounces back and forth at a pretty stready rate.

Just trying to figure out what the voltage curves are suppose to look like. bouncy bouncy or steady output.

 

Are you removing the wheel well liner to remove the 02 sensor or working from underneath truck? Looks maybe easier work from under the truck?

 

yeah after spending 45 minutes trying to figure out how to get at the right side connector. I realized that you can go up under the wheel well. Still have to do some wierd wrist/elbow/finger movements to get my hand jammed close enough to flick the connector.

Maybe I'll have Chuck Norris come punch a hole through the sheet metal so I have direct access.

 

These do make it a little easier, -since you have a few more positions to choose from.



But, I recall when I first seen where the passenger side forward O2 was. How in hell?? I got it with a wrench the first time. I beat the snot of it, -until it gave up. Seriously, once it came loose, it spun out with a couple finger rolls.

My O2's aren't there anymore thankfully, their further down and very easy to get to.

 

oh I got no problems getting the o2 sensor out of the bung......It's reconnecting the plug that's way the hell tucked away and blocked all the @$@# (right side). I got a twisted up open ended box wrench to deal with the sensors.

Actually mine came out reallllly easy, must have been my hulk strength from dealing with the electrical plug.

Still a bit fuzzy why I have one O2 bouncing around and the other pretty steady. Maybe an air leak or egr?

 

Those bungs can leak, - mine have. I don't use anti-seize, - I'll use Permatex High Heat Red with Copper or Teflon tape. -Depending upon what I have in the arsenal at the time. But yea, they can leak, it's not to uncommon. The way to test is to charge the system thru the tail-pipe with compressed air. Regulate the air between 10 and 15 lbs. You don't need an air tight seal at the T-pipe. Choke up your air tool with rags or what not, use some bubble water in your favorite squirt bottle and hose down the bung/O2 mating surface. She'll blow bubbles for sure if you have a leak there.

Another, very crucial, -probably the most important with an O2 sensor install, - make damn sure the connectors are as clean as you can get them. The pins are overly sensitive to foreign matter.

 

Thanks Jbrew for the information----I ordered the fronts for mine today from Rock Auto---DirtySCREW

 

No problem. sealing the connector up after your thru is a good idea as well (I use dielectric grease). Specially on the passenger side around your AC drain line. They tend to fall off and can the connector can take a hit when it drains. Most of the time , once the connector is d-pegged from the back of the heads, you can't get it back in it's original position. You have to zip tie it. The AC drain line is about impossible to work on, - with the damn engine in the way lol. There's not that much room between the firewall and heads.

If you run Long Tube headers, wire extensions aren't needed and can cause problems. Since the HO2S's are pushed further downstream, you replace your forward sensors with rear sensors. Same sensor/longer harness, -duty changes via vehicle harness.

 

So here's some feedback for the group. Swapped back to the old sensors. Still have the same condition. Bank 1 bounces all over the place, bank 2 nice steady readout. After dorking with it I believe it's now a function the engine/exhaust manifold over a sensor problem. I don't think it's a big deal, nor do I think swapping out the O2's helped or hurt me. I'll throw the new ones back in just cause their paid for.