I thought about the seal issue, but since you have PCV, any over-pressure should just dump back into the intake. Also, from an expansion/contraction standpoint, less air volume in the block due to high oil would mean less expansion/contraction of the gasses (air).

To me (just waxing poetically), the big issues were mechanical damage to the piston skirts, added stress on the wrist-pins & rod bearing, and localized heating around the rod/main bearings due to be immersed in oil verses being able to dissipate the heat in the engine void. (However, as long as there was sufficient circulation of the oil around the main bearing saddles, the oil would actually be better at heat dissipation than the air). Another biggie would be damage to the oil wiper rings that might not show up until we get oil consumption data after several hundred miles. But nothing notable yet.

The remainder are the catalytic converters and PCV valve. No tests done yet. And the elephant in the room was the hydraulic lock - which I am just thankful to have dodged that bullet at this point.

Never again will I leave a "profession oil change center" with first pulling the dipstick in front of them.

You guys are great. Thanks for the help! Should have stopped here before I tackled the water pump on my 7.3 PSD - that dang fan clutch nut was a mo-bear

 

Another little gem that now jumps out of the original problem description was:

"Once the engine reached operating temp, the rough idle appeared again"

(smacks self - multi-weight oil -- of course!)

Very little viscosity at cold start in the 5W range, much more viscosity at operating temp in when the oil is in the 20W range...

 

Just for the record - here is what a 5.4L dipstick looks like at 6 qts. high:

http://www.3111skyline.com/dl/img/mi...k-6qt-high.jpg

 

Thanks for showing that!

 

Wow! Just, Wow! I'll have to start taking your advice 88. I always check the oil when I get home, but it makes more sense to do it when I pick the vehicle up. Still, since I've stopped doing my own oil changes, I always go to my own dealer, who I trust (and who's never tried to screw me yet, to my knowledge).

Good idea to date the filter too. I always look at it, and check for leaks, but, sometimes it pays to be suspicious.

- Jack

 

Thanks Jack!

I use a scratch awl to scratch the date in......carb cleaner or brake cleaner can erase permanent marker.....

I do this for my work truck, wife's tahoe, and son's grand prix.....

I still do my own oil changes on my STA(the princess isn't ready yet) and Harley....and I date those also.....

I know its **** but it helps.....

 

^^^^^Little confusing. All I picked up from that was a 5.4 and a PCV. hmm oh well.

 

I am dealing with same problem for a week now. I have been going crazy with the symptoms . changed cam phaser, vvt solenoid, 4 c.o.p.s all plugs and still same oh yea and cam pos. sensor checked oil level today it is about a qt and a half over. will drain tomorrow and see what happens. Mine to ran great until I hit my slight incline of a driveway or the engine was at operating temp. for about an hour.

 

I purchased used expi 5.4L started having rough idle, replaced plugs at dealer, check oil level and all fluids. still rough idle. I noticed engine cooling fan cycles on and off without a/c on. what can I do?

 

I have a 2004 F-150 4x4 5.4 3v new motor at 150k now it's at 210 k. Rough idle low rpm's dies at stop. First start rpm's drop out and will almost die but recovers on it's on but it will do this two or three times. List of new parts: motor Craft plugs, new coil packs, new fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel regulator, new knock sensor, new MAF, Remanufactured transmission, new catalytic converter, and new oxygen sensors. It cuts out during acceleration too. RPM'S bouncing from 500 to 800 until it warms up. After it is warm foot on brake it will idle 450 to 550. No code's showing on edge performance module and it is set on stock factory settings runs much worse if I boost performance level. I'm brain dead and broke after all this. Ideas needed? Thanks