Alright so this is my first truck and I am still learning alot about it and about the Ford truck issues. My truck recently acquired a misfire in cylinder 6. I would rather not drive a lot with this issue so in frustration I made an appointment with the Ford dealer to have plugs and wires changed. I figured this would be the best place to start since I bought the truck almost 2 years ago and I don't know when the plugs and wires where changed before I bought it (if at all). But they quoted me $390 for the job. So because of that price tag and the fact that I am a college student trying to save money as much as possible I am considering canceling it. The main reason I turned to the dealer first is because I thought that the 4.6 had the spark plug removal problems. But now that I have done a little more research I am confused. I would rather do the job myself and save about $200. But I don't want to do it if I can possibly be breaking plugs off. I have my appointment at the dealer tomorrow morning. But I may cancel it depending on what I hear here.

So any help and advice would be much appreciated

Thank you in advance...

 

It is possible to brake plugs off- you may you may not.

I was in the exact same situation as you- same cylinder (if I recall correctly), no money (college), and a misfire on my 98 4.6 with 375 000kms, the wires were at least 60 000 kms old.

I replaced just that one plug wire and that fixed it (had to get to work). All should be replaced though so I did the rest when I had the time- got a misfire on another cylinder just before I had the time. again did that one wire and fixed the problem. got me through the winter then I did the whole set.

$60 for a set of motorcraft at rock auto.com btw.

I would just do the wires yourself and see if that fixes it. it could also be coils. plugs should be done but i would wait till you can afford to pay ford. hey- you might be able to afford to pay ford for the plugs if you do the wires yourself??? Wires are easy, shouldn't take to long either- set a few hours a side just in case.

 

What he said but its probably a plug. Especially since you know which cylinder it is just change the plug and wire on that one and see if that will fix you up until you get the money for the rest of them. I do believe 28 lbs of torque is whats recommended for these plugs. O and dont change them with the engine warm.

 

The plug problems with that model year is they could launch out of the plug chamber. VERY doubtful you'll break one. That's a 3 valve problem. You have the 2 valve.
Make sure you don't have Autolites in that engine, -they don't last long. Pop the hood in the dark, -see if you have any fireworks going on with #6 plug wire. Like wilderthing mentioned, -it could easily be a wire.
Which misfire DTC came up on the scanner ? Was it a 306 or something else? There's more than just one, - there's 3 possibilities.
If it's the wires, I think the cheapest good set out there is at Rock Auto.

 

Use Motorcraft plugs and wires. At rockauto.com:

SP-432 plugs $3.20 each
WR-5934 wires $57.79/set

Do not use antiseize, torque to 28 ft/lb. Use a small amount of dielectric grease in the boots at each end.

 

Thanks for responding back guys, I forget which code poped up on the scanner when I did it. I scanned it at Advanced Auto where they let you scan it and I lost the paper that I wrote the code on. I have a feeling that it is most likely a plug because when it does misfire you can smell un-burnt gas.

I canceled my appointment with Ford just to buy some more time to see if I can handle it myself.

I am going to order those wires today hopefully and try to do that first.

The good thing is that my longest drive is only 10 minutes for work so I am not endangering the motor too much (hopefully).

Thanks for the help. . .

 

glc, Why shouldn't I use antiseize?

 

I think its because it can affect the torque accuracy.

Not sure though. Sorry, but it is definitely good advice because that's what I have heard everyone else say but never any issues from doing it.

 

There is nickel in the metal the plug is made out of and anti seize is not necessary first off second it throws off the torque calculation and you just dont want anything on that plug that makes it come out easier. They have a tendency to blow out ruining the threads. 28 lbs dry use dielectric grease on the wire boots..

 

Never knew that, thanks for the info

Ya, thought the torque calculation made sense. Want that plug in there for good.

I miss the good ole days where the only reason a plug would blow out was because some one didn't tighten them correctly

 

http://blownoutsparkplug.com/faqs.htm

#51 and #52.

 

Thanks for the info. That defiantly will help if I do decide to replace the plugs myself.
I ordered wires yesterday morning and hopefully they will be here early next week and once I get them on I will see where the problem will go from there.

Thanks

 

I got the wires from Rock Auto. Holy Crap fast delivery. I ordered them Wednesday morning and they were on my door step Thursday afternoon.
Sunday I replaced them. It only took me about an hour or so and it was easier then I expected. And while I was under the hood I realized it wouldn't be too hard to do the plugs. Just as long as I get the right amount of extensions. So hopefully I will be able to get the plugs in the next week or so.
Just figured I would update you all on where I am on this issue.