5.4 3v V8 Missing

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 05-31-2012 | 11:30 AM
Petey83's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
5.4 3v V8 Missing

I have looked thru quite a few other posts, have seem some similarities, but nothing quite like what I'm seeing with my F-150.

I have an '04 with the 5.4 3v V8. When I accellerate from 45 - 60 mph, it misses bad (really bad) and the truck shakes. If I take the over-drive off, it seems to improve, but this kills my gas mileage.

No check engine light has ever gone on. I finally got a shop to drive it with a computer hooked up, and they said it was a problem with the #1 cylinder missing. I changed the plug out and put in a new ignition coil as well, but same problem.

Truck has 156K miles on it. I had the spark plugs changed around 120K miles . The plug I pulled out of the #1 cylinder seemed to have some burn markings around the middle of it, not sure if that is just normal carbon buildup or not.

I really don't want to have to go thru and throw $ at it by replacing every single ignition coil. I've pulled them all, no discoloration of the spring, no dry rot on the bottom of the boot, no visible problems.

Anyone else seen this, or have any suggestions on how to find out if another cylinder is also missing, or which ignition coil could be bad?

Thanks for any assistance.
 
  #2  
Old 05-31-2012 | 11:44 AM
jethat's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 5,522
Likes: 4
From: Utah
coils aren't to expensive if you get them on E-bay. No check engine light? I'd replace all the coils and if it doesn't have Motorcraft plugs I'd put them in..
 
  #3  
Old 06-01-2012 | 08:33 AM
Petey83's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
thanks for the feedback jethat. I will try the coils first. No check engine light has ever come on. I did put di-electric compound on all of the ignition coils to try and see if that didn't help the connection out, but no luck. So I guess I'll try coils next and hope one of them is just bad, and this clears up the problem.
 
  #4  
Old 06-01-2012 | 08:59 AM
glc's Avatar
glc
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 43,310
Likes: 777
From: Joplin MO
  #5  
Old 06-01-2012 | 08:59 AM
Bluejay's Avatar
Global Moderator &
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 26,034
Likes: 70
From: Burleson/Athens/Brownsboro, TX
What brand of plugs? Also, make sure you have replaced the fuel filter in the last 20,000 or so miles and clean the MAF and throttle body.
 
__________________
Jim
  #6  
Old 06-01-2012 | 09:07 AM
MGDfan's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,390
Likes: 9
Originally Posted by Petey83
thanks for the feedback jethat. I will try the coils first. No check engine light has ever come on. I did put di-electric compound on all of the ignition coils to try and see if that didn't help the connection out, but no luck. So I guess I'll try coils next and hope one of them is just bad, and this clears up the problem.
^^^ Can you eloborate? It's an insulator... here's the proper way to apply it:

=> https://www.f150online.com/forums/4829957-post17.html

From this thread: https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...lp-needed.html

BTW - new boots are always a good idea. They ain't expensive. Just fyi.

Good luck!
 
  #7  
Old 06-01-2012 | 09:13 AM
88racing's Avatar
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 10,697
Likes: 14
From: In the fast lane from LA to Tokyo...

sounds like a possible bad coil boot or cop.....

try swapping the suspect bad coil to known good cylinder and if the miss follows then you'll know what to replace...
 
  #8  
Old 06-02-2012 | 12:24 AM
Petey83's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
they told me the #1 cylinder was missing, so I replaced the coil and plug in that cylinder, but still have the problem. So I'm guessing it is another coil that could also be bad.

It has Autolite plugs that a shop put in about 35K miles ago.

I found some coils online that were much cheaper than O'Reilly's, so those should be in next week and I'll try that next. Wouldn't think it would be the plugs with only about 35K miles on it.

The throttle body is clean, but I will check the fuel filter, thanks for that reminder Bluejay.

Anyone had issues with fuel injectors? Never messed with those, not sure how hard they are to clean / replace. I run cleaner thru a couple of times a year, but not sure how effective that stuff really is.
 
  #9  
Old 06-02-2012 | 12:31 AM
Petey83's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
thanks for the info MGDfan. I put it on the end of the coils. That is what a guy told me to do, said it made a better connection. From the sound of your post, that isn't where it should be though. Guess when I replace the coils, I won't be doing that with them.
 
  #10  
Old 06-02-2012 | 06:33 AM
glc's Avatar
glc
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 43,310
Likes: 777
From: Joplin MO
The grease goes inside the boots - you do not want to get it on the springs.

I'd replace the plugs with Motorcraft SP515's. Cheap Ebay coils may or may not work well, we have been recommending Visteons at about $180 a set. Those are essentially OEM, Visteon is European Motorcraft.

The best fuel system cleaner is Techron.
 
  #11  
Old 06-02-2012 | 08:03 AM
88racing's Avatar
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 10,697
Likes: 14
From: In the fast lane from LA to Tokyo...

Originally Posted by Petey83
they told me the #1 cylinder was missing, so I replaced the coil and plug in that cylinder, but still have the problem. So I'm guessing it is another coil that could also be bad.

It has Autolite plugs that a shop put in about 35K miles ago.

I found some coils online that were much cheaper than O'Reilly's, so those should be in next week and I'll try that next. Wouldn't think it would be the plugs with only about 35K miles on it.

The throttle body is clean, but I will check the fuel filter, thanks for that reminder Bluejay.

Anyone had issues with fuel injectors? Never messed with those, not sure how hard they are to clean / replace. I run cleaner thru a couple of times a year, but not sure how effective that stuff really is.
This

replace with motorcraft sp515
 
  #12  
Old 06-06-2012 | 09:19 PM
JOHNNY WINDSOR's Avatar
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
I changed my timing tensioners ,cam phasers,vct solinoids,and all spark plugs!!! My 5.4l engine in my 2008 f150 is rumbling struggling to stay started. But when i unplug the vct solinoid it works fine no rumbling . But if i plug it bacvk in it goes back to struggle to stay on when i come to a stop light . What is the issue i'm out of thoughts!!
 
  #13  
Old 06-07-2012 | 07:13 AM
MGDfan's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,390
Likes: 9
Originally Posted by JOHNNY WINDSOR
I changed my timing tensioners ,cam phasers,vct solinoids,and all spark plugs!!! My 5.4l engine in my 2008 f150 is rumbling struggling to stay started. But when i unplug the vct solinoid it works fine no rumbling . But if i plug it bacvk in it goes back to struggle to stay on when i come to a stop light . What is the issue i'm out of thoughts!!
Wow - all that for a 2008? How many miles?

All I can think of is cam timing. I'd start by checking the valvetrain indexing.

Good luck

BTW - it's may be prudent for you to start your own thread and not jack this one. Thanks.

MGD
 

Last edited by MGDfan; 06-07-2012 at 07:37 AM.
  #14  
Old 06-07-2012 | 08:32 PM
jay0555's Avatar
Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: Louisiana
I have the same issue, mechanic says I need plugs and 1 coil pack. Wants to charge $550 for parts and labor. Oreilly has coil pack for $45.00. I'm debating whether to change coil pack myself and forego the plugs for now, or just pay the $$$ and have it all done. I hear nightmare stories if getting these plugs out of 2004 f150's. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
  #15  
Old 06-07-2012 | 11:35 PM
RockHound44's Avatar
Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
From: Las Cruces, NM
Might be shooting in the dark, but have you checked the ERG valve? The valve directs a small portion of exhaust gasses back into the inlet air charge and lowers the maximum temperature of the burning fuel. The valve makes sure that the EGR system is off at idle, where it would lead to erratic and loping idle, and at peak power, since adding exhaust gasses robs power from the engine? Just a thought.
 


Quick Reply: 5.4 3v V8 Missing



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:17 PM.