Well,
Here is the thing, when will you use it again? The plugs, if you spend the extra money there good for what, 1000000 miles, right. So when will you use it once you will probably never pick it up again. Now, the liste tool I am referring to has 4-5 parts to it? It was high quality. I don't know about the el cheapo, there only $60 but same question, when will you use it again? If you use the products i suggest, and do it the way i tel you to, you shouldn't need the tool, just take your time, let them soak. That the main thing let them soak.

 

There is no such thing as a LISTE tool. It's a LISLE tool (LIS65600) and the one NAPA sells for $100 is the EXACT SAME tool that Amazon sells for $60.

We have had people break plugs no matter how long or carefully they soak them or what removal technique they use. If it happens, it happens.

If you buy one, you can always resell it to someone to get some or most of your money back when you're done.

I DO NOT RECOMMEND that you attempt a plug change without at least having one AVAILABLE. Good chance you may not need it, but also a good chance that you will.

 

Ok thanks glc

 

CARQUEST is the parts storei buy from, the owner gts the tool that the ford mechanics use. It is the carquest in myrtle beachsc 29576 on hwy #501 if you want to contact the guy. I don't know or care what they cost who make them, if they are crap or not. I gave the guy away to do the job without a tool. You c an stop with all the chirping, i think he gets it. He can do it how ever he wants to. So enough with your view. I am not being a smart as but OK we get it. There is two ways to skin a cat.

 

I'm sorry I need to be so rude here but you, kongfish, are an idiot.

The tool is an absolute must because if you do break your plugs (no matter how much kongfish tries to tell you that spending 12 days soaking and moving 1/32 of an inch at a time will prevent it) you will be extremely glad you bought it. Another thing to look into is lots of parts places have specialty rental tools. It would be worth looking into that. You could always also buy a used one and save yourself a dollar or two.

If you don't use it then you can return it, but its worth its weight in gold when you need it.

 

Which is the LISLE 65600. He's making some bucks on it too. At least he has them.

Carquest, NAPA, whatever. It's a retail parts store.

I'm only "chirping", as you put it, because you are posting incorrect information. We've been talking about this issue here for years and we have it down pretty good by now.

Click on the Search item in the top toolbar, when it drops down, select Advanced Search. Use "Lisle" as the keyword, and choose Personal Classifieds in the forum to search. TONS of threads with the tool for sale - and it looks like all recent threads did sell it rather quickly. So - if you buy one and want to resell it, you shouldn't have a problem.

 

Ok thanks and what would be the best injector cleaner to use to help get some of the carbon build off before I change the plugs.

 

Tachron. The concentrated kind. Walmart sells it. Get the fuel system cleaner not the fuel treatment. They have 2 kinds of techron.. The more expensive one is the one you want. I would put in 2 bottles of the 15 gallon treatment fo a full tank..

 

How is spraying around the intake going to find an exhaust leak?

 

Do I have to use carburetor cleaner to soak the plugs with or can I use penetrating oil?

 

The TSB says carb cleaner. People here have used all kinds of stuff with varying results.

 

So, is there a happy ending to this?

 

Hey All,
'07 w/80k.
Do the boots on the coil packs keep dirt out of the bore?
If you use compressed air won't that push stuff down under the boot?
Would u remove the coil pack first or use carb cleaner to clean the boot then remove it and use the carb cleaner again. Either suck it out or used compressed air?
Thanks,

 

I can only compare it to an old car with solid lifters if you know what that sound like. When I go though a drive thur it sounds real bad and when I'm riding down interstate and go up a hill the passing gear kicks in (that what I call it ) not a big hill. Do you think I could have the same problem as you.

 

I have a 2007 F150 that had a very loud ticking at idle. Also sounded horrible at high RPM. Took it to a shop and was told it was a bad lifter or the cam phaser. Last week the truck started rough. I decided to change the spark plugs and found 3 of the 8 plugs were loose!!! Just bought this truck 2 months ago so haven't done any maintenance myself on it. Long story short after replacing the plugs myself and correctly the ticking is completely gone!!! Thank you lord! Was so annoying!!! Not sure if that's your problem but worth a check! Simple fix!!!