Remove the starter and test it on the bench in a vise, if it clicks and spinsup immediately with fast/highspeed torque it is good. If it doesn't it is bad or wrong application. Sometimes a starter drive willstick in an old ring gear. Look at the teeth in 4 spots on the ring gear badly worn or broken teeth is not so good. What you probably have since it clicks is a bad solenoid with internal burned contacts. Try a jumper around it. See if the starter than spins up. Also a bad battery cable at the post area even inside the clamp to cable area will cause your trouble exactly like you have it. You need perfect connections. A little corrosion goes a long way to stop current flow in the 150/225 amp areas

 

Yes, However everything changes once the fuel injectors are energized and the coolant has been added. A fuel injector stuck open will fill a cyl with gas and prevent the engine from turning over. Same with coolant a coolant leak into a cyl will lock the engine up as well. Always turn the engine by hand using a socket and breaker bar so you are sure its not an engine problem then move on to other possibilities.

 

Yes a hydroloc is a very bad thing, fuel you should smell, coolant you can see with a bore scope if the motor won't turn forward freely with a socket on the crankshaft.

 

What are you doing Wert? - Fix it? What was it?

 

A little redneck and possibly dangerous, but you can rapidly narrow down your problem with this "procedure": Make sure the truck is off (key out of the ignition), battery connected, shifter in Park/Neutral, parking brake applied, take an old screwdriver and touch the post where the battery cable connects to the other large post on the solenoid. This will feed battery power directly to the starter motor. It will spark and scare you and will try to weld the screwdriver to your solenoid, but if you can brave it, you'll learn a few things. If the starter engages and turns the engine over, you know your battery, starter, starter gear, and flywheel gear are fine. If you're really courageous, turn the ignition on and do the same drill (MAKE SURE YOU'RE IN PARK - OR EVEN BETTER, HAVE AN ASSISTANT HOLD THE BRAKES AS WELL). This should start the engine. If it does, you've really narrowed down the possible problems to the ignition circuit, neutral safety switch, brake switch, and solenoid. If jumping the solenoid posts does NOT work (does not turn the starter or the engine), you may have a bad starter (yes even new ones are bad sometimes).

Notes:

None of this will work with a dead battery - make sure it's charged first.
Don't touch anything with the screwdriver except the two posts. If you touch the frame you'll just ground the battery and get no results.
Be ready to use some force to get the screwdriver off the posts - it will try to weld itself to the posts - if you want to protect the posts, screw some disposable nuts onto the posts and touch the nuts instead.

If you try this, pay close attention to what happens and post the results for us.

 

Don't stand over a freshly charged battery whendoing the above. As it discharges it can blow up with a spark. LOL

 

Yea that's crazy. Seen two blow in my life time. BOTH from spark. One, I was at the rear of the vehicle while the battery was charging. I was just passing by.- The vehicle had been connected to a small charger earlier that day, - it was most likley cycling on and off (automatic) when it blew. Loud as hell, thankfully no one was at the front of the vehicle at the time.

Second time was different. This one blew right when the guy attempted to connect jumper cables. Blew up in his face. I was there, with others, but just out of harms way. Took the guy into a building close by, so that he could flush his eyes, rinse off his face. Incredibly, he did not loose his site or suffer any facial damage. His hand unfortunately, - had a large chunk of battery casing lodged between his knuckles.

This person healed, VERY lucky, could of been much much worse.

All it takes is a spark. A battery can blow from a hot cigarette ash as well.

 

i wonder how he checked the battery ive seen alot of batteries with 12v but you put them on the load tester and they fail miserably

 

So I have check the ground on the chassis cleaned it up reinstalled no change there was 2 more grounds on the firewall that I also cleaned up I have checked the battery wit a tester I had around 12.2 . I also tried bypassing the solenoid with a screwdriver but no change it just clicks ( sounds like when the starter goes bad) now I bought two starters both have been checked and tested now for some reason everyonemismtelling me it's a ground but u guys broke it down where the grounds rare I don't know if I'm missing one or not also I checked the battery wit a handheld.tester the battery is like 4 months old and seem to have good voltage when I put it in this is another week without my truck and the mechanic is trying to charge 85 an hr to troubleshoot this is a last resort for me
Thanks guys look forward to n e other ideas

 

So have you replaced the firewall relay? try doing that. its only 10-15 bucks.

 

Pull the spark plugs, put a squirt of oil down each and slowly turn the motor over by hand. The piston will force out excess/any water or fuel causing a hydrolock. Squirts of oil will lubricate the cylinder wall and help keep damage to the cylinder bore to a minimum. If you have water in thar, it will corrode the cylinder wall like a parade, it is almost that fast.

 

You need to LOAD TEST the battery. Pull it and take it to a parts store for a free load test.

 

Ok so I'm gonna get the battery tested this morning and buy a new relay if that doesn't make a difference I will pull the spark plugs and oil like explain from papa tiger hopefully one of these fix the problem when I put the oil in the spark plug hole do I turn the motor over by hand to lubricator the cylinder walls ?

 

I would remove all spark plugs and with an oil can give each cylinder a squirt, then turn the motor over by hand a bit. You will notice any water in a cylinder ejected up the spark plug hole. The oil will give the rings and cylinder added lubricant protection and free up rings some. The motor will do the blue thing for a minute or so as it warms and burns the oil away. This isn't any real problem, just open the garage door. Your real problem if the motor turns freely and has no water in it is cranking to start. There are Direct current amp meters that read the flow thru the battery cables simply by clamping around each one at a time and having someone crank the motor. Home Depot sells one. I love mine, it works for all wires both AC and DC. + or - cables. You can pickup a bad power cable/wire or ground cable/wire not conducting current immediately. One of the best meters after the OBD reader.

 

Ok so I got the battery checked and it was good I bought new starter solenoid and again no change also there was a ground that I seem on the chassis to the body wich I cleaned up then I tried the oil in the plugs no water came up it spins freely from the crank pulley with a ratchet had the starter checked again while I was at the parts store at this point I might try n find someone to come look at it i don't really know where to go from here