On the first plug on the passenger side part of the porcelian broke and is fell inside the head. I shoved a piece of rubber hose and attached it to a vacuum to suck out the piece. The problem is, is that I can't find that piece in the vacuum. Is this a problem or will it just get crushed and blow out the exhaust valve? Besides this issue the spark plug change is no big deal as long as you have the removal tool and some patience.
Any help would be appreciated.

 

___You're are in luck. I've been working on that problem since Feb 3rd. My 06 w/135K. I've learned the miles don't matter they're not comin out easy and you're gonna break a few. I understand the local Ford guys want over 700 for a plug and coil change...and if they break any they charge YOU 125 each to pull out...and from a Ford house mech they'll break 2-4 every day.
___I did from the start and was also told too. Soak the plug holes good with PB Blaster for 1-2hrs and then break just a little, as I did, on a 2' breaker bar...maybe a inch at the end, then back and forth a few times and let it sit again and soak maybe 30 min. Work it back and forth a little more and as it gives a little more freely, begin to back it out. It's going, every one is, to make a crack noise...THAT"S GOOD! It's gonna make that crack noise every few degrees until it's out. I guess the Titanium or the threads are so tight is what causes it.
___It doesn't appear there was any anti-seize used...cause they're a real bugger. As I was looking on the I-net for a tool, I lucked out and found a Youtube video on the removal of the broken plug ends. They use and recommend a Lisle tool and as I looked around it appeared to be the best...maybe not but I liked it. I couldn't find it on the Lisle Tool website, but found it at many sites, both parts houses and E-Bay for 67 to 91 dollars. I ordered mine through my local, keep the money local, parts house.
___DO NOT work on a hot engine as both metals would be expanded...a cold air gun as opposite of heat gun would be great. I've used a freezer many times when needed to R&R bearings and sleeves.....good luck to ya! Griz P.S. I broke 7 n 8, still soaking 4 (the real tough one.) and o-yeah, I used a 2' ratcheting 150lb TQ wrench.

___FOLLOW UP AND LET US ALL KNOW HOW IT WORKS OUT.

 

You don't understand, I did that. My problem is that when using the tool to push the porcelian down into the sleeve that broke off while removing the plug, a piece of the porcelian broke and I believe it fell into the combustion chamber.
My question is that when I crank up the engine will that piece become crushed and just blow out the exhaust port or will it become a major problem?

 

How big was the piece of ceramic? A very tiny piece will probably just get blown out when you fire it up. A shop vac should pull it out though. I would just take the vac hose and put it over the the sparkplug well with a rag sealing it and turn it on. Sometimes a small hole in a small hose will not have enough vacuum force to pull much out. make sure the ceramic piece is not just lodged in the rubber hose you used. Always make sure you never have any gas in the bore when you use a shop vac as the fumes could cause the electric vac to explode.

 

Disconnect the fuel injectors, trip the inertia switch, or pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine. That may be enough to blow the piece out.

 

crank the truck up with the spark plug out and the injector unplugged for that cylinder, it should blow it out.

 

I helped a buddy and using the lisle tool i got 2 out were the metal tip was broke and i couldnt find it...so i used a straw and shop vac down there...i was worried that porcl. and the metal tip mite be down there but it fired right up and has been good now for a week!!