I have a 2004 F-150, 5.4 3v that I am thinking about dropping another motor into. I have been having issues with it and it looks like I need to replace cam phasers, and possibly cams. It has 290,000 miles on it. So I am a little worried about spending to much on it with this many miles on it.

So I checked with my local Ford dealer and they quoted me $4,000 for a remanufactured with three year warranty. That's $900.00 less than any other Ford dealer has told me. And I don't have to worry about core charge with them. But my question is, is there just a good of place or better place to purchase a remanufactured motor at instead of through Ford. Of course I am thinking cheaper here when I say better.

I wouldn't think Ford remanufactures the engines themselves but instead has someone do it for them. any idea who that is and if they sell to the public? Or is there some other reliable place to buy from?

Thanks

 

The other dealers are quoting as much as $4900.? That seems more than a little bit insane to me. Ask them if they take monopoly money. They should, for that price. No, Ford doesn't rebuild it, an outside company does. I doubt that they sell to the public. Probably had to sign agreement with Ford not to do business with anyone else. Why don't you consider a LOW MILEAGE used engine? (several years later of course) Couldn't (shouldn't) cost you near as much as a rebuilt from Ford.

 

Ford Reman stuff in normaly Top Quality & Comes with a decent warranty that is good nation wide,Jasper is about the only other reman I would consider,If $ is a issue a Low Milage used may be a good option but used usualy only comes with a very short warranty.

 

My Ford dealer told me $5,000 for a drop in motor (Valve covers, new plugs installed plus oil and filter etc). No thanks

I bought a long block off of ebay. 3 year unlimited mile no fault warranty. The heads are supposed to be brand new, not re-manufactured. I also saw Rock Auto sells a long block for $3000.

I had a valve break in mine at 105k. If this motor breaks I'm aiming for the first canal I see.

I bought this one, going in right now. Should have it back next week.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-4-L-Longbl...4fa8a0&vxp=mtr

 

Right! -Given a choice, -I'd take the low mileage used and proved option. Compression tester in my back pocket, that's all you need really.

Thanks but NO THANKS, on those re-mans. I've got a fairly good memory, seen and heard enough of those go south. Wait till they find out how that re-man warranty really works, -or doesn't....

Never the less, if you HAVE TO go with a re-manufactured. Ford really doesn't mess around there.

 

The only problem with the Ford RM is (may be at the dealers discretion) it DOES NOT come with the 3yr, unlimited mileage warrantee if YOU install it that it does if a Ford dealer installs it. (they want that labor$$$) For what you pay for 'um, that kinda sucks. I picky about doing things right, and having worked at dealers for a lot of my career, would much rather install myself just to make sure it's not buggered up. (trust me, I've seen PLENTY of that)

 

I bought a long block off of ebay. 3 year unlimited mile no fault warranty.

 

Okay.

No fault? Can't beat that ehh. Run it out oil every 35 months, -get a fresh one off the rack. If it lasts that long that is.

Yea, you really need a warranty like that with most RM engines. There's a fifty fifty chance you'll be needing it IMO.

Your not going to beat a low mileage used engine with 90% of the RM's engines out there. It hasn't be done. If there's something wrong with an original used, low mileage two valve Ford Modular engine, your going to know right off with a few checks. And that's before you by. There isn't need for an astronomically high warranty with an already proven engine. If you get 3 years on a RM, your doing good. With an OEM, your getting a better motor at a 1/3 of the price. There's a lot of ***** stories about RM's, specially with the Ford modulars. With that big warranty your get RM's, you also get that BIG hassle when/if you have to use it. Big price and possibly a Big hassle since RM's have such a high failure rate. Big difference between most RM's and the original factory modular motor.

Even Jasper RM's can fail. One instance and this ones on this site, A Ford Tech went thru 3 Jasper RM's, one after the other, before finally getting a good one hooked up. The best re-builders can't seem to dodge a few bad ones every now and again.

Now there's good Re-manufactured Motors out there, some that WILL go the distance no problem. There's always the chance with either choice that you may find a bad one. From what I've seen and heard over the years , and set cost totally aside, -the better choice is low mileage used, hands down, IMO.

 

Exactly what I thought when I read his comment.

OP if you do go with a low mile used, along with the compression check, I would pull the valve covers and possibly pan as well and verify everything looks factory as it should. Probably wont have any sludge issues on a lower mile engine, but I have seen it. Never hurts to dig a little deeper and verify its a good purchase. Just some food for thought

290k on the original engine is pretty good. Other than the cam phasers, are you having any other problems with it?

 

Looked up some used prices real quick; was curious. They're a little higher than I thought. I'd take any one of those over a re-man myself. IF they checked out.

Highlighted miles and price, -



Right, as Dub posted above,- a quick compression test at each cylinder. Nothing fancy, just a quick cyl comparison check is all you need, or would want IMO.

There must be a book or two of fine print on that "No Fault" deal. Like, don't reverse with left blinker on, or your voided.

 

At THOSE prices, I think I might take a quality reman with a warranty. Don't forget the labor cost for the swap if you don't do it yourself. Just my opinion.

 

No other problems but with the Cam Phasers. Though that one has me baffled. the whole left bank will shut down and start misfiring. That's sounds a little deeper than just Cam Phasers but I may be wrong. that and when you start from a dead stop there is this funny virbration that lasts a couple of seconds. Not in the U-Joint and doesn't seem to be in the rear end or tranny (That's a Ford RM that's still under warranty). Doesn't use any oil to amount to anything and when all eight are firing it has lots of power and runs smooth.

Now I am leaning towards just pulling it and rebuilding myself if the block, heads and crank check out ok. I can throw rings, bearings, oil pump, cam phasers and all the gaskets,head bolts, valve job and have the block vatted for less that $1500.00 by my calculations.

Thanks for everyones comments.

 

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That might be the way to go if you have the resources to do so (DIY rebuild). If you go the route, go ahead and replace the phasers and see if that cures your current issue. It doesn't sound like there's anything wrong with the current setup other than the miles.

IMO phasers should be considered a wear item and replaced when worn out. I'm still chugging along on my 148k mi stockers. When (not if) they go, I'll be doing the phaser lockout mods, and tuning them out. Might sacrifice a little top end hp, but you eliminate a headache in the process

 

I have the resources to do so. Tell me what are the Lockout Mods??