I will change them. The idle has gotten way better since the induction. Still feel it slightly but now it is felt only a tiny bit in the body but not in the seat, thats how better it has gotten.

Its definitely worth a try. Thanks.
I'm still gonna save a few grand just incase #7 does die in a few years. I ordered a SCT X4 programmer so the idle will most likely be a little higher and won't feel a thing.

 

Where are you buying the tuner from are you getting a custom tune. I have been thinking about buying one also. You can raise the idle with the tuner

 

Mike at 5Star tuning. I was talking with him for over a week debating and the research I have done says his tunes are a bit better than MPT.
I get 5 custom tunes with the device. Was a bit more than I wanted to spend but thats cause of the custom tunes I believe. But he is supposedly the fastest when it comes to support and tunes so I figured I would hate to have to wait 48hrs for a tune if I needed it and he does it almost immediately from what I heard.
Yeah the idle can be raised by the device but I am having it written into the custom tune.

 

How much higher are you raising the idle

 

only up to 800 from 650. I have tested it with foot on brake and in park and its pretty decent at that rpm. Considering it doesn't have hardly any pressure on the tranny at 650 and when its at 800 it seems to act like a normal vehicle.

I had noticed the shake again but less than before and not all the time like before so the O2 sensor may be a good possibility. Haven't had a chance to go and replace then yet.

I just ordered the OEM repair manual for the truck, finally found a good deal. Amazon wanted 100 bucks but I got both wiring and repair manual for 45 on ebay.

I did notice today being almost 90 out and idling in parking lot the air conditioning seemed to surge a bit now and then. Almost like a voltage problem but the idle stayed at 650. I almost had a notion it was the alternator issue but thats a whole nother theory.

update- I asked my mechanic about the O2 sensors and he just looked at me. I asked again later on in the conversation and he ignored me so either he doesn't want to do them or he thinks its out of the question. lol

 

I am leaning towards fuel injectors or fuel pressure regulator.

my short term fuel bank trim on one side (the side that has full 100% compression) fluctuates and runs richer than bank 2. Not by much but still not stable like the other.

I guess there really is no way to test them without taking the intake off and pulling them out cause I can't even get to the pressure regulator with out taking the intake off. So that will all have to wait until I get moved into the new house in Aug so I can have a garage to work in.
Either that or pay an arm and a leg and end up like I did before with the same problem just an empty wallet!

 

First: Stop disconnecting random vacuum lines while the engine is running. It's counter-productive.

Do a compression test with a compression gauge. Wet and dry. You're looking for consistency. Don't have time to explain in detail what this means if you don't know, but start from there. You're looking for consistency in the cylinders. EDIT: This video should explain a compression test pretty well. If the cylinders are within 10% wet and dry, you're good. 15% is ok. Anything more than that is an issue.
What spark plugs were used? A fine-wire iridium plug is ideal and can make a real difference. Some Motorcraft plugs are fine-wire, some aren't. I use Autolite XP in everything and they're outstanding. Had a rough idle in a my father's Marauder (similar engine) after putting OEM Motorcraft plugs in. Switched to Autolite XP, runs silky smooth. EDIT: I did try NGK Finewire Iridium plugs in my Marauder and my V6 Lincoln LS. The Marauder developed a rough idle immediately afterwards. The LS ran fine. That was the last time I used those plugs. I've used either Autolite XP or Motorcraft plugs since, but I only use the Motorcraft if they're a fine wire design.

GLC is absolutely right. Do not use any oil additives. If you feel your engine needs additives to run properly, you have another issue.

Don't Seafoam. It's a quick way to break rings and blow head gaskets. If you want to clean the fuel system, 3M Fuel System Cleaner is my preference for pouring in the tank. If you want a really good cleaning, find a shop that does the professional 3M fuel system cleaning. But don't bother with this until you've verified the compression is within spec.

 

I am guessing that the engine is fine because the engine doesn't seem like its missing nor codes and after looking at my body mounts (all deteriorated majorly and falling apart) I am replacing all body mounts and going to do the engine mounts as well, hopefully the slight shake will be gone!
I am going to have my mechanic do a compression test after I have the body mounts done. Hopefully I won't need the test if the mounts fix the slight shake.

Thanks appreciate it.