Very cool link, Labnerd.

I have one for liquid and made from a garden trigger type sprayer. It has an air fitting where the water is supposed to go in, and a ridged tube with a plastic hose on a tee fitting. When you pull the trigger the air siphons the soap or solvent and blasts away at the grease.

Using the soda as a medium looks much better though!

 

Labnerd:
I got a harbor freight cherry picker for the pull and static engine stand for the disassembly...very cost effective, and both met my needs. The engine is completely disassembled now, and ready to go to the shop for hot-tanking. I see several test stands available for non-ECM engines for around $500, and since I plan some more builds eventually for other projects, I can justify a cost in that ballpark. For that price, its just about cheaper than welding up one myself. My question relates to the fact that my current application is ECM, and it's not exactly clear to me what additional components I'd have to add to fully run the relatively modern 351 (1993) on a stand. Seems I'd need the computer to simulate the installed control environment, and I wondered if this is easily done or if it adds more complexity than it is worth for me. I've looked around online but have not come across an easy solution yet. I've seen older 351W's being run-in and checked for leaks on a simple stand, and I'd like to do something similar.

I read in my travels that the caustic hot tank eats AL parts, and since I do have a large compressor and a harbor freight media blaster setup, I wondered if it would be appropriate to go after the lower and upper intake manifold, and perhaps the pistons and rods to clean them up with the blaster rather than a tank. I wondered what type of media to use or not use. Thanks for the link.

I've rebuilt a few aircraft engines, but never an automobile engine, so a big NOD on the pre-lube. Based on some 351w rebuild books I'm studying, I've been guided to the moly rings, and will look into the plasma ref...I'm unfamiliar with that reference.

I do want to do as much of the work as I can, both to save money and because it's fun. I'm concerned about being ripped off at the machine shop for services such as decking and line boring that I may not need, so I don't mind buying large mics or other tools to follow the simple steps detailed in the overhaul books for micing the crank, checking worn cylinder geometry, or checking deck flatness. I have some experience in CNC work, own a manual mill, medium sized lathe, and a 3-axis cnc mill, so I have the basic tools such as magnetic bases with various dial indicator setups. While I'm not an expert by any means, I can eventually figure most things out. Checking the wear or out-of-roundness of the crank or cylinders myself seems pretty basic, and the books I'm referencing detail the specifications for these measurements in pretty good detail. I figured if I went to the trouble to have an opinion as to the block and heads condition before talking in detail to the shop, I'd have a better chance of not being taken advantage of.

I was proceeding with the rebuild on the basis of having researched some of the rebuild kit prices, and thought that, based upon the seemingly reasonable pricing, such things as checking the pistons and rods might cost more in shop time than installing new items would.

Regarding the roller cam and lifters: based on the condition of my original cam, I love the idea, but from what I've seen it would add approximately $1000 to my rebuild, by the time I add the cam, lifters, spider, and some machine shop time to modify the valley to accept the spider. Thats seems prohibitive for this rebuild.

Thanks for your input.

 

Considering your skill level is passed hobbist, I would suggest looking at plans on the net for your own designed engine stand for run in. For reference, here's one that the guy has kinda well built but I would question several items on it. The gas tank is located next to the battery- that's a major no-no. I would suggest a remote tank and possibly use connections like an outboard engine uses. That keeps fire under control not to mention a run away engine doesn't run well when it runs out of gas. You can easily disconnect it. His design does not address exhaust at all. You will only be hit with carbon monoxide once, I know, I've been there. You don't ever really get over it and any exposure means you don't breathe well. Make sure the exhaust is piped outside and down wind. Another issue I see, his is built on wheels. That can be a dangerous thing. If you want wheels under it I strongly suggest some system to set the frame on the floor. All you need is one moron to whack the throttle and then you're going to play catch the hot engine, that is, if it doesn't flip over. And that's another reason to have a remote gas tank.
http://lainefamily.com/EngineStandProject.htm

You could go to a junk yard and get the entire wiring harness. I'd be inclined to use the ECM out of the truck the engine is going in. That way you know everything is compatible.

From your post it sounds like to me you have a pretty good handle on what's to come. Hope the build goes well for you. Might consider taking pics as you go along and post a rebuild in the tech section. It could be very useful info for those not as knowledgeable as you. Address any issues you run into including the simple ones. I think you'd enjoy the experience and yet help others.Best of luck.

 

Labnerd:
That's a nice stand...thanks for the link. One other change I'd make is to not locate the fire exthinguisher near the likely source of the fire. I'll always be running mine outside. I'm comforted by the knowledge that, when things go wrong, I can always RUN AWAY

Perhaps I've made more of the ECM issue than is warranted. What I need to locate is a complete engine electrical schematic. I did recently purchase the original Ford service manual on cdrom, so I'll dig through that. The pull-a-part suggestion is an excellent idea.

Question:
Does one normally disconnect the bell housing from the transmission, and remove the housing with the motor? I may have misunderstood the Chilton instructions when I disconnected the motor from the bell housing. In retrospect, I'd describe removing the housing to motor bolts as impossible. I've seen several motor projects on the web with the housing attached, and have surmised that if I'd left it on the engine, I'd have had easy access to the four xmission bolts.

Fyi, I'm dropping the block and heads at the shop this week, then I'm out of the country for a week. I'll be back on the project when I return.

Thanks.

 

I always disconnect the engine at the bell housing. Its possible on some to remove the Bell housing but you got your clutch slave in there and all..