Could the Mass Air sensor get gunked up in 4 days? If this is the case how do you get the oil off the Filter and can I clean off the sensor with out replacing it?

The Mass Air sensor was covered under warranty but they may not replace it again if the oil is causing the problem. I believe that the work order said that the sensor is about $90.00. It would really suck if it is the oil from the K&N causing this.

I find it funny that everything was fine for over 10K miles and now this problem is reoccurring 4 days after the Sensor was replaced.

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99 XLT 4.6 midnight blue reg-cab, Airaid K&N, dual exhaust

 

So this is your second MAF? That does sound weird that you replaced your MAF and then 4 days later its gunked up again. The only thing I can think of is they didn't change it the first time, just reset the computer.

The only way I know of to reset the computer is unplug the battery and wait about ten minutes to drain all the power.

There is a spray you can get to clean the MAF but its not recommended. Due a search on MAF to find out, there was a thread under Engines.

You could also try (after receiving the new MAF) clean and reoil your K&N (but do so sparingly)

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The Truck: 1997 Black F-150 Flareside. Regular Cab ORP and Towing Package
The Mods: K&N Filter, Eurolid Hard Tonneau and Ford Bug Deflector.
The Site:
Triton's 4.6 Liter Web Page
www.mindspring.com/~acbradley/index.html



[This message has been edited by Triton46 (edited 12-21-1999).]

 

Well don't let ford bully you!

Here is an EMAIL that I received from K&N. In it they state that the 2000 Mustang Cobra will come Standard with the K&N on it.


Dear customer,
Our filters are tested by an outside, independent laboratory, Motor
Industry Research Association (MIRA). They stop 97 % of particles on a SAE
fine dust test. This test uses mostly particles in the 0 - 5 micron range
but up to 20 microns. For comparison, a paper filter stops 98% on the same
test and the OEM minimum standard is 95%. Our filters actually reach a 98.5
% efficiency when they get a layer of dirt stuck to them. As for the time
this takes, it depends on the driving conditions. We recommend cleaning
them when this dirt layer gets as thick as the wire mesh or once a year.
Cleaning more frequently only shortens the like of the filter as they are
only good for 25 servicings. We got started over 30 years ago making filters
for motorcycles and off road racers. The filters did so good that these guys
wanted them for their cars and trucks. We started doing this and here we
are today. If they did not work, we would not still be here and growing
every year. We now make filters for Mopar, Ford Motorsports and Harley
Davidson. We will come as original equipment on the 2000 Ford Mustang
Cobra-R. We even made the filters used in the Apache helicopters used in
Desert Storm and the US Marine Corps new Osprey tilt-rotor aircraft. If
they work in these conditions they will work for you.
Thanks for asking, Rick

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Want the First and Best Synthetics Available?
Lube-Direct

 

I am not so sure that it is a dirty Mass Air sensor problem. I cant believe that one could get dirty in 4 days. There has to some other reason for the idiot light to come on.

Does anyone else have any suggestions. I would like to do some test on it before I take it back to the Ford service center.

It just doesn't add up to me.

 

Crusty, look for a super direct response in the mail. Other than what everyone else has said, if you get the same error codes again they need to check the wiring to the connector. Again, your vehicle will run, however marginally, with the MAF disconnected. After enough key-on cycles, the "Check-Engine" light will come on.
Its a hassle to have the dealer "techs" work on your car especially when they jump to conclusions.

BTW, I have seen some real dirty MAFs that still worked within spec.

Birdman

 

Crustymuffin, my service engine light came on Sunday and my truck is going into the dealer tomorrow. I too thought maybe it was the colder than normal air temp (-2's) so today I removed the oversize fender intake tube I mfg out of PVC and took my super chip out. I ran at HWY speeds and again the light came on, it took longer than before this time without the superchip in. Did your dealer give you any grief about the Airaid you have installed? I did the custom job on my intake added the 3" pipe to the fender and removed the silencer in the elbow.



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99' F-150 XLT SC 4X4 ORP LS 4.6L K&N Air Filter Air Box Mod (3" intake from fender & silencer removed), Superchip, A.R.E. Cover, Duraliner bed liner, Rapidflow 3" single CatBack exhaust.

 

They tried to blame it on the K&N. They said they would cover it that one time. But here I am one week after the new sensor was installed and I am having the same problem.

I personally think that they did not fully check the all of the codes. You never know.

Again, I ran the K&N for 10K mile problem free. I am going to clean the filter and tube from any dirt or oil and take it to a new Ford shop or maybe the same one.

I will let you know what the say!

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99 XLT 4.6 midnight blue reg-cab, Airaid K&N, dual exhaust

 

One week ago I took my 1999 4.6L F150 to the dealer because I had a check engine light came on. They plugged into the computer and said that the Mass air sensor was bad. They also said that the sensor went bad due to oil from the K&N collecting on the sensor. I found that funny because I never oiled the filter. It came pre -oiled. Prior to last week the setup has been running smoothly for over 10K miles. I got the truck back and all was good until yesterday. The same light came on.

I don't think that the sensor is bad again and the oil theory is a joke. I find it hard to believe that the sensor could collect that much oil in 4 days.

Is it possible that the colder air (in the 40's) is confusing the Mass air sensor? I was thinking of covering part of the K&N or blocking the filter so that it sucks more air off the warm engine.

Also is there any way to re-set the computer or turn off the "Check engine Light". I don't think disconnecting the battery will do it.

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99 XLT 4.6 midnight blue reg-cab, Airaid K&N, dual exhaust

 

Actually, this has happened a pretty good bit. Its possible the K&N came with too much oil on it. A good way to check is look on the sidewalls of your air induction tube from the airfilter back to the engine. If the walls are lined with grease (even a little) this will foul up your MAF.

How much does it cost to replace?

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The Truck: 1997 Black F-150 Flareside. Regular Cab ORP and Towing Package
The Mods: K&N Filter, Eurolid Hard Tonneau and Ford Bug Deflector.
The Site:
Triton's 4.6 Liter Web Page
www.mindspring.com/~acbradley/index.html



[This message has been edited by Triton46 (edited 12-21-1999).]

 

I took the K&N system apart last night for cleaning. The MAF sensor was immaculately clean. I used a white glove to see how dirty the inside of the intake tube was and it was extremely clean too. The filter itself did not have any large deposits on it and was only slightly dirty. I cleaned and mildly oiled it (as directed on the recharge box) with the K&N cleaning/ oil kit.

I do not think that the Sensor went bad from dirt or oil. Is it possible for some electrical serge to fault the sensor. The reason I ask is, I have had some small electrical problems with the power windows. I also get a 300 drop in RPM's when I come to a complete stop. The clutch is in and the brakes are
applied. Once I am completely stopped the RPM's drop from about 750 to 400 or 500 RPM's and immediately back to 750. I can also reproduce this effect when I try to roll up the Power windows when they are already rolled up all the way. I know it sounds funny and why would someone do this but why would it put such a strain on the engine.

Any way I took it into a different dealer today. I will let you know
what they say. I am prepared to give them hell if they try to put it off on the K&N this time.

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99 XLT 4.6 midnight blue reg-cab, Airaid K&N, dual exhaust

 

I imagine the service department at the dealer never fixed the problem the first time around and merely reset the computer. On my wife's '98 Taurus, Ford was so kind to print a warning on the air box advising against the use of oiled filters. After much haranging, with K&N and Ford, I've decided to run with the K&N and install the original paper element anytime the vehicle goes in for warranty. Even though your vehicle is under warranty, you might think about the purchase of an Actron/Sunpro OBD II diagnostic scanner (catalog # CP9035). Autozone sells them for around $135 and will order it Fedex (they're Actron's biggest customer). I get tired of wasting time, sitting around the dealership and I figure once my pickup's out of warranty, it'll pay for itself after using it a few times

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'98 F150 XL Regular Cab, LWB, 4.2L V6, 5 Spd, 3.55 LS, Rhino Lining, factory heavy duty suspension, 3" Gibson Swept Side Cat Back, K&N filter, Oxford White minus the two tone garbage. BIG TIME FoMoCo p/u fan, not some fair weather hammerhead.

 

The work oder from the 1st visit to the shop stated that the MAF sensor was replaced. It is $80-$90 part.

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99 XLT 4.6 midnight blue reg-cab, Airaid K&N, dual exhaust

 

I would ask for the old parts, up front, when you take it in. I really have no faith in the honesty or integrity (they have none) of most dealers and their service departments. I still suspect they probably did not do anything to your pickup, aside from resetting things.

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'98 F150 XL Regular Cab, LWB, 4.2L V6, 5 Spd, 3.55 LS, Rhino Lining, factory heavy duty suspension, 3" Gibson Swept Side Cat Back, K&N filter, Oxford White minus the two tone garbage. BIG TIME FoMoCo p/u fan, not some fair weather hammerhead.

 

CM, mine when into the dealer today and they found codes KOEC P0133, KOER P1131 and H2O KOER P0131(any clues?) They checked the air cleaner and blamed the codes on the K&N filter. They said that there is a restriction in the intake and K&N filter is the problem. On top of that they said this service visit is not covered under the warranty and I must pay. Came home put the paper filter back in and the service engine light cam back on. So here I sit totally peeved and still no resolution. Tomorrow I am going to another dealer and with no K&N filter.




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99' F-150 XLT SC 4X4 ORP LS 4.6L K&N Air Filter Air Box Mod (3" intake from fender & silencer removed), Superchip, A.R.E. Cover, Duraliner bed liner, Rapidflow 3" single CatBack exhaust.

 

BigRed2,
Wether it helps or not, I have had my K&N in for almost 3 years and never had the engine light come on. I have only recharged the filter once aside from the initial purchase. They (the dealer should refund your money for the visit if the other dealer finds something else. ( put your stock paper filter in for dealer visits )

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'97 F150 Red/Silver Lariat, SC, 157" wheelbase.
Factory Equipment includes: 4x4, 5.4L, Automatic, 3.55LS, Grey leather, Power bucket seats, HD Tow package, Rear sliding window, Ford bed Liner, electric shift on the fly.

Aftermarket additions/modifications: Superchipped, Bug deflector, Window Drip edge guards, Sony 10 Disk CD changer, Chrome Nerf Bars, K&N Air filter, Air box Modification, 2-1/2" True Dual exhaust with chrome tips out the back, 36" glass packs, 265/75/16 Michelin LTX A/T's, custom rear spring pack, cranked torsion bars, Extang Tonneau cover.


Future additions: Hellwig bar, tinted front windows, still looking for "good" floor mats?.